Car Servicing

A strange grinding noise, which sounds like a hollow turbo sound has been coming from the engine bay of my 2013 VW Golf 90TSI Comfortline manual at start-up since new. It does it almost every start, unless straight after being driven. After inspecting the car twice my VW dealer says that this is normal. The noise stops after 20 seconds from start-up, if you drive it straight away the car runs rough. The noise appeared after they fixed the noisy wastegate. No other Golf I know of does this. Is this something you have heard of before?

My 1999 JS Holden Vectra won't go over 40 km/h, is it possible the computer is in "limp" mode? If so, how do I fix it? Or could it be something else?

Would you receive a different diagnosis for contaminated fuel if you took fuel samples from the fuel rail or tank? My 2007 Holden Astra car was towed to a Holden dealer and their service report stated: "fuel sample taken from tank was black and contaminated fuel had affected entire fuel system". The estimated repair costs were $6000 and they instructed me to lodge an insurance claim. My insurer's mechanic drained the tank and found the fuel to be clean and there was no contamination in either the tank or any part of the fuel system. My insurer diagnosed the fuel pump as the reason my car was not starting. I provided the dealer and Holden Customer Care with my insurer's report; along with a report from Caltex confirming their site had no contaminated fuel. Holden Customer Care confirmed that the dealer had no evidence to support their diagnosis and that they never took a sample from the tank, it was taken from the fuel rail. Holden further stated that it does not matter where the sample was taken from, as it is the same fuel. During a phone call Holden's representative blamed me for trusting the dealer and said that I should have checked the fuel sample myself. What would be your opinion on the above?

I have a BMW X5 turbodiesel and my first set of brake pads were completely worn out at 60,000km plus there was very annoying brake dust. The Bendix pads bought from Repco have now done more than 85,000km and there is plenty left. I keep telling people that I see with thick brake dust on their wheels how to fix it.

I have a 2013 Toyota LandCruiser, a GX turbo diesel, that has done 50,000km in 18 months from new. The vehicle is used for work in dusty outback conditions, which it was designed for. It has been serviced by the book and I recently noticed a noise in the turbo. I took it to my Toyota dealer and they checked it and had regional manager check it and agreed it has a turbo noise but would not cover with warranty it as I had replaced the exhaust with a larger aftermarket one plus changed the head on the snorkel. Both these aftermarket alterations should enhance the turbo rather than being detrimental. I have heard from various sources that Toyota have an issue with the left hand turbo on this motor, so as it's a known fault do I have any avenue to pursue the warranty claim or is it a lost cause due to the aftermarket changes I have made?

I am looking at a 2012 Kia Cerato auto that's done 70,000 km and has a partial service history. Would it be still covered by the new car warranty?

The handbook for my 2008 Skoda Octavia DSG diesel states that the toothed belt should be changed at 150,000 km, but a VW specialist service centre, and my local garage, in whom I have faith have told me that my car is overdue for the change even though it has only done 96,000 km. What is the correct, or safe way to proceed?

There is a noise when I accelerate in my 2006 BMW X3, but it is otherwise quiet. What could it be?

My 2000 Toyota Sienna is consuming more fuel after the exhaust catalyst was replaced. Why?

At 120,000 km the engine in my 2007 Toyota Landcruiser Prado diesel almost seized. Two fuel injectors had to be replaced, and I replaced the other two as well at huge cost to me. It has now done 170,000 km. I love the Prado, but cannot afford a seized motor. Do you think it is too much of a risk to keep it?