Car Servicing
My husband's Toyota Landcruiser 70 series GXL V8 ute stopped. Prior to stopping there was an odd noise, but the oil and water were ok, and the engine did not appear to be overheated. It hasn't been fully examined, but may be an injector problem according to his mechanic. Do we have any recourse? What do you suggest?
I am only getting 334 km from a full tank of petrol – 68 litres – from my dual-fuel 2003 Falcon. Is that right?
I bought a VF Storm wagon V6 in June. After driving it for a few days it developed a knock and also a thud. The thud occurs when you take off in Drive, but if you let the car creep forward then press accelerator it wont do it, or if you press the accelerator very lightly at take off. The knock clunky sound occurs when you select reverse, but not at the time reverse is engaged, it happens after you press the accelerator. I took it back to Holden when it had about 2800km and they told me that they loosened the k-frame and re-tightened it. The noise was still there when I drove it home. Next time Holden had the car for three days, but told me it was normal when I picked it up. I wasn't happy and went and got independent reports stating that there is something wrong, but they couldn't pinpoint where, but they did tell me that they think it's in the transmission. Holden then organised for an engineer to check it, and he found then problem to be the transmission. A new transmission was fitted, but the noises were back a week later. Have you heard of this problem? Also are we entitled to a refund?
I like your comments on Hyundai and Kia. I have watched Hyundai since the brand's introduction in 1986 and noted them getting better and better. So much so that my wife got a new Lantra Sports Wagon in 2000. I do all my own servicing at 7500km, rather than 15,000, and in 10 years of ownership and 116,000km the car has cost me four tyres, a battery (the original lasted seven years) and a set of plug leads at 110,000km. She now has a Hyundai i30 Wagon which needed an auto valve body under warranty and is now perfect. I got out of my Volvo in 2008 and into a two-wheel drive Hyundai Tucson, which now has 63,000km on it still with the original battery.
The front shock absorber on the driver's side in my wife's car is leaking. The dealer claims it's sweating, and if it is sweating or leaking I believe it should be changed. I have complained on the past three services and they still refuse to change it until it stops functioning or when the oil is pouring down the shock absorber. I would like your opinion on this as the warranty will soon run out.
My mechanic tells me my 2006 Holden Astra Bertone is a special edition with a great motor. But it has now done over 210,000 km and he says it needs a lot of immediate work. He has quoted me the following for parts only in order of work needed to be done: brakes with rotors $377, tyres pair between $231 to $491, rear shocks $385, front and rear engine mounts $988, headlights between $506 - $840. Do you think this is reasonable pricing?
I would like your advice on brake servicing, as I have a Volvo S60 turbo diesel which has 14,000km on the clock and is coming up to its two-year service. As with many other manufacturers, Volvo recommends top-up or replacement of the brake fluid every two years. But with a previous car I found this involved bleeding of the compete system for $150. Is this procedure really necessary or is it just another way of bolstering servicing revenue? I would have thought synthetic oils and fluids mean this isn't necessary every two years.
How many miles can I expect to get on my Chrysler 300C Hemi engine with good maintenance care?
I bought a 2013 Ford Fiesta in January. Since then it has been back to the dealer three times because it stutters between gears. Ford is telling me that it is not bad enough to replace the clutch, yet I know this is a big problem and Ford is replacing some and not others. Can you help at all? I have never been so frustrated in my life. This should not happen when you buy a new car.