Car Servicing

I have a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer ES which is due for its 90,000km service, although it has only done 60,000km. I have been quoted more than $900 from the dealer, mainly due to the cost of servicing the constantly variable transmission for the first time. An independent mechanic has quoted $600 for the same logbook service, which includes using Mitsubishi-specified CVT fluid and coolant. For a car this age do you think it is worth spending the extra money on the full logbook service? Or should I get the service done but use non-specified fluids and coolant, which will save some more money?

What would cause the brakes on a 2011 Holden Barina to lock on when turning to right or left without actually touching the brake pedal?

My dealer has recommended that I have the 24,000 km service done on my 2013 Jeep Patriot serviced because of its age, but it's only done 11,500 km. The service would be expensive if I go to a dealer, so I was wondering if I should go to Ultratune or Lubemobile. What do you suggest?

My 2006 Chevy Trailblazer has been taken to a mechanic four times to get the rack-and-pinion serviced and it seems they can't fix it. What should I do next?

I am considering buying a 2012 Commodore wagon, which will be kept for a long time, at least for 15 years, but I am unsure about the availability of parts for them in the future once Holden ceases production. Do you think that the companies that supply parts to Holden will close up as well making it difficult to get parts?

But a change brought about following an investigation by the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission may unwittingly have the opposite effect.The ACCC recently took one big brand to task because the price of each service was subject to change over several years, generally in line with inflation.In reality it meant the possibility — not all prices went up — of prices rising by an average of 2.5 per cent a year, depending on the materials involved in each service.Now that the prices are harder to find, the car makers can creep them back up again if they chooseBut the net result of the ACCC action so far is that some brands have made it harder to get a servicing quote online.On some sites, you must enter the car’s Vehicle Identifying Number (VIN) to figure out exactly how much each service costs.This may be more accurate but it means potential customers have no idea when comparing brands.And now that the prices are harder to find, the car makers can creep them back up again if they choose.If the consumer watchdog really wants to keep pressure on service costs, it needs to find a better way of enforcing its regulations.The authority could start by requiring all car companies to publish service prices online, without the need for a password or vehicle identifier.

Three weeks ago the radio in my 2009 Mini Cooper suddenly went dead. It was working when I parked the car in the evening and not working at all the next morning. The screen does not illuminate, nothing works. I have checked all the fuses and they seem fine. The radio is built into the back of the dash and requires the dash to be dismantled to access and inspect the radio. I have heard of BMW charging up to $1500 to do this. I am not sure what course of action to take. I think it is outrageous that the dash has to be dismantled just to access a radio, and I would have expected a radio to be one item that should not fail, particularly if it's totally enclosed within the dash. Can you advise me on how best to resolve this issue with BMW please? I do not want to pay out $1000-plus.

Rust was identified on the suspension and control arms of my 2004 Jaguar X Type during a roadworthy inspection, and the mechanic is saying that it all needs replacing. I sought second opinions from panel beaters who said the parts can be sandblasted and then resurfaced with a protective coating, but the RWC mechanic says that this won't suffice and the parts still need replacing. Pretty much everyone is saying that the mechanic is being overly zealous. I get that rust equals failure, but what are the guidelines as to the level of rust to determine whether a part needs replacing or can just be cleaned of it? All I received from the mechanic was a service record and not an actual failure notice. Can I go elsewhere after sorting out the rust issue?

My granddaughter has lost her immobilizer controller and although we are able to get into the car we are unable to start it to move it anywhere. Everyone keeps telling us to go to dealer, but they do not seem interested in helping. Can you help?

When I advised my dealer at the 10,000 km service that I was not happy with the squeaky brake noise on my 2014 Nissan Altima STL the brakes were checked and cleaned but they're still as noisy as they were before service. Is this noise normal?