Car Servicing

Last year when I had my DSG-equipped 2010 VW Passat CC 125 TDi serviced I complained to the dealer that there was a shudder when the vehicle started moving without pressing the accelerator. The shudder was more pronounced when moving in reverse. Their response was that it was normal because it was a diesel car. During the latest service, their own technician picked up the same thing and indicated it should not be happening and told me that they have been trying to find out what was causing it without success - for the last 3 weeks. In the meantime I drove a couple of second hand CC's, which all started smoothly without any shudder. Having in mind a few negative comments about the DSG and the fact that my warranty is about to expire I am concerned this may cost me dearly if it's not rectified. I would appreciate your advice on what to do?

I have noticed that when I'm driving along at 70 to 80km in my 2004 VZ Commodore and then accelerate a little the car struggles to get power. It only happens when it's warm. Any advice?

A warning light on our 2009 TK Holden Barina, came on indicating random multiple cylinder misfire. The cylinder head was reconditioned due to sticky valves. After another 1000 km the fuel injectors required replacing. Should we be having this type of trouble, or do we have a lemon motor? Is there anything else associated with these repairs that should be investigated?

When I came to replace the original set of disc brake pads on my 2010 Hyundai ix35 at 38,000 km, the Hyundai service guy told me that I also needed to replace the brake rotors because they'd worn down below the minimum serviceable thickness limit and so could not be machined. I think this is a premature and unreasonable rate of wear, and asked Hyundai to include the replacement cost under warranty. Hyundai told me that, as with disc pads, they treat rotors as "consumables", which are not covered by the warranty, and so I have to pay the full cost of their replacement. As this will be $700 to $1000, I'm not impressed that I'm now facing such costs every 35 to 40,000 km. In my view, the brake pads should take the brunt of the braking wear-and-tear, not the rotors, which should be designed to last a lot longer than one set of pads before they need re-machining, let alone replacement. Under the new Competition and Consumer Act, the rotors as supplied should be of "merchantable quality", meeting a reasonable level of expected performance and duration. The rotors should also be fit for their "intended purpose", as the more durable component of the disc pad/rotor pair. If there's a breach of either of these statutory conditions, I would be potentially eligible for a "remedy" from Hyundai, such as including the rotor replacement in the terms of the warranty, and refunding to me the costs already paid. Do you think this path of action is reasonable, and worth pursuing?

When my partner took her 2009 Holden Astra in for its 80,000 km service she was told the brakes needed doing and that the front and rear rotors needed to be replaced. When she asked why the discs needed to be changed she was told that they were a throw away item and could not be machined. I recently drove the car and immediately noticed a pulse in the brake pedal as if the rotors were warped. My partner was charged for pads and rotors, but I don't believe they were changed. The car is booked in to have the brakes checked this week. If the rotors are warped, should she be paying again?

My 2008 Holden Captiva LX has only done 60,000 km, but my dealer has told me the timing case is leaking and requires sealing, which will cost about $1000. The dealer contacted Holden about it as they thought Holden pay for it. Holden said they would pay half, but I'm not sure if I should pay the other half or fight with them to cover all costs. Do I accept their offer?

I have read with interest the complaints of poor fuel consumption of Nissan X-Trails as mine is the same. When I communicated with Nissan I was told that they were not responsible for the figures posted on the windscreen as they were the results of a Federal Gov't agency and were the results of testing in a standard environment and were only provided so people could compare similar vehicles tested under the same conditions. I was told that the tyre pressures and the skills of the driver affected fuel consumption. Taking that on board I have travelled frequently from Maryborough to Brisbane Airport and return, 500 km or so with no traffic lights, no hold ups, light on the accelerator, the recommended tyre pressures and the best result I got was 10.9 L/100 km. I have had the car checked and there appears nothing wrong with it. Other owners with the 2.5-litre CRD I have spoken to have tried chips and exhaust mods but still cannot achieve the advertised consumption figure and they also continue to be fobbed off by both the dealer and Nissan. I am happy with all other aspects of the vehicle and I bought it to tow my caravan with planned trips of around 40,000 km, which it will do, but at approx 3 L/100 km more than the advertised figure I will use 1200 litres more than I bargained on. What really concerns me is do we have a gov't regulator providing incorrect consumer advice, so much for consumer protection, or are the manufacturers providing specifically tuned vehicles for testing. As always the motorist loses out.

I have received a notice that because of the time frame the 45,000 km service on my 2008 Honda Accord Euro and will cost $480. I appreciate that the oil and filter should be changed every six months regardless of kilometers travelled, but I feel it is unnecessary to carry out the 45,000 km maintenance at 15,000 km. Your expert advice would be greatly appreciated.

I own a 2004 manual Holden Astra with 43,000 km. On a recent visit to the dealer for some minor unrelated work, I was told the water pump in my 2004 Holden Astra was leaking and needed to be replaced. The car was not leaking coolant or overheating and when I asked the dealer why I hadn't noticed the leak, he advised that it was not visible from outside, but was visible inside the timing belt cover. My partner has since looked on the internet and it appears that removing the timing belt cover would not be a quick and easy check, have I been ripped off? Did the dealer charge for unnecessary work? The same dealer changed the water pump and cam belt in 2009.

The engine in my 2000 Toyota LandCruiser GXL diesel appears to develop a vibration on a smooth level road at about 70 km/h and between 1200-1300 rpm that appears to affect the whole vehicle, but goes away with slight acceleration. One repairer said the problem was in the torque converter and fitted a torque converter lock-up switch, but to no avail, they then said the injectors and fuel pump required overhauling. At this point of time only injector cleaner was used on a number of occasions and fuel filter changed, but the problem is still there. The vehicle has four new tyres in balance and the driveline has been checked. The problem cannot be replicated with the engine in neutral and operating at the same rpm range. There is not the slightest indication of the engine having injector or fuel pump problems at any other and speed or operating conditions and there is no evidence of exhaust smoke. The real issue is that should the pump and injectors be serviced at approx $3600 when no one will guarantee that this will solve the problem?