Subaru Forester Gearbox & Transmission Problems

Noises like this can be hard to trace, but you're obviously on the right track and will ultimately establish the cause. Taking the shaft out seems like a good course of action having worked out that it is possibly at the heart of the problem. Good luck.

No, the transmission can be used the way you use it without suffering because it's changed more than it might if it were left in auto mode.

It’s possibly worn out and in need of replacing.

The Forester with CVT transmission is rated to tow 1500kg, but you also need to make sure you stay within the maximum weight limit for the car. Provided you are within those limits you shouldn't have any trouble with the CVT.

The difference between 4WD and AWD has become blurred as some AWD cars have become more capable of use offroad. It used to be that a 4WD were part-time four-wheel drives with high and low range, which could be locked in for off-road use. An AWD was really an on-demand system, which was front-wheel drive for most of the time, and drive as sent to the rear wheels when needed for traction. A lot of AWD SUVS now have quite sophisticated electronic systems that give them greater ability to go down bush tracks. One of the big issues for AWDs vehicles off-road is usually their ground clearance, so you have to assess the roads you want to use and drive accordingly.

It’s rated to tow up to 1500 kg if the caravan has brakes, so providing it weighs less than 1500 kg when fully loaded it should tow it without difficulty. But I would recommend that you have the automatic transmission serviced before you leave on your trip.

The XV is underpowered, as well as having a very dozy CVT. If you are that worried I would definitely suggest a brand swap to something with a regular automatic.

Rear diffs on that model Forester are known to be a problem, even at low kays like yours, but it's important to make sure it's not a wheel bearing that's making the noise. Your mechanic should be able to identify it if it is a wheel bearing issue.

Switching the transmission and ECU clearly hasn’t fixed the problem, so look at sensors in the system, the wiring harness, and connections. I would suggest you take it to a Subaru dealer or an auto transmission and have them check it for you.

The noise could be from the electric motors themselves or in the gears and cogs that physically move the mirrors to their new positions. Pulling the mirror apart and lubricating these mechanisms might help reduce the noise and may even fix the one mirror’s reluctance to move through its full range of positions.

As far as warranty goes, the situation is a bit complicated in that the dealer may examine the noise and decide that it’s not abnormal. But what you should do before the warranty runs out is have the car examined and the problem logged at dealership level. That way, if anything goes wrong as a result of the problem, even if it’s beyond the warranty period, you have what’s called a pre-existing condition whereby the problems is Subaru’s to fix because it existed while the warranty was still current, even if it wasn’t fixed at that time. The point being that the dealer can’t delay a fix reported during the warranty period and then claim that the vehicle is out of warranty and refuse to fix the problem.