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1992 Nissan The Ute Pricing and Specs

1992 Nissan The Ute
Pricing from

$2,400 to 5,610

Based on third party pricing data

The Nissan THE UTE 1992 prices range from $2,400 for the basic trim level Ute The Ute DX to $5,610 for the top of the range Ute The Ute ST.

The Nissan THE UTE 1992 is available in Regular Unleaded Petrol. Engine sizes and transmissions vary from the Ute 4.1L 3 SP Manual to the Ute 4.1L 3 SP Automatic.

Ute

Nissan The Ute Models SPECS PRICE
DX 4.1LRegular Unleaded Petrol3 speed automatic $3,100 – 5,390
DX 4.1LRegular Unleaded Petrol3 speed manual $2,400 – 4,070
ST 4.1LRegular Unleaded Petrol3 speed automatic $3,500 – 5,610
ST 4.1LRegular Unleaded Petrol5 speed manual $3,100 – 5,280
* Manufacturer's Suggested Retail Price

Disclaimer: Glass's Information Services (GIS) and Carsguide Autotrader Media Solutions Pty Ltd. (carsguide) provide this information based on data from a range of sources including third parties. Whilst all care has been taken to ensure its accuracy and reliability, GIS and carsguide do not warrant or represent that the information is accurate, reliable, complete, current or suitable for any particular purpose. You should not use or rely upon this information without conducting an independent assessment and valuation of the vehicle.

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Nissan The Ute 1992 FAQs

Check out real-world situations relating to the Nissan here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.

  • Why does my 2014 Nissan Qashqai shake when climbing an incline?

    It sounds as though the vibration you’re experiencing is coming from the driveline. Perhaps it’s the engine but more likely it’s something in the transmission since the problem is worse when the car changes gear. That the problem occurs when climbing a grade suggests that it’s related to the engine being under load at which point the whole driveline – gearbox and driveshafts – are also loaded up.

    It could be something within the transmission itself, a bent driveshaft or even something relatively simple like a worn CV joint. Carefully, and when it’s safe to do so, find a big, open area like a deserted car-park, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and drive slowly in a tight circle. Now do the same on full right-hand lock. Can you hear any clinking or clunking noises? If you can, you have worn CV joints. If not, you need to dig deeper into the cause and that will require getting the car on a hoist and inspecting the driveline.

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  • Why is my 2012 Nissan X-Trail using a lot of oil?

    Let’s start with the black exhaust pipe. All cars that run on unleaded petrol have a sooty black exhaust. The soot will be thicker if the car isn’t tuned properly, but really, the blackness is just a by-product of burning ULP.

    Your oil use of about a litre every 1500km is getting towards the top of what is acceptable. Even then, it’s more than this engine should consume. The fact is that all engines use some oil, but it’s usually not enough to require topping up between oil changes. But with your usage rate, you’d need to keep a close eye on the dipstick.

    The oil is clearly going somewhere, so check on the ground under where the car is parked each night and look for a pool of oil that suggests the problem is an external leak rather than internal engine wear. From there, have a workshop conduct a compression and leak-down test. The results of this will tell you if the engine’s internal parts are worn and leading to the oil being consumed.

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  • What caused my 2006 Nissan X-Trail to overheat and lose compression?

    I’m afraid to say, David, that it sounds like you’ve prematurely ended the engine’s life. I’d say a blown head gasket is just the beginning of your woes here, and it’s likely you’ve `cooked’ the engine; a mechanic’s description for getting the engine so hot inside that the piston rings have lost tension (hence no compression) or parts of the engine have even melted internally, with obvious results. It’s also common for this type of thing to have the engine more or less weld itself together, at which point it won’t even turn over on the starter motor.

    You might be lucky and simply have to replace the head gasket, but even then, you’d be wise to have the cylinder head checked for straightness. If the cylinder head is warped (as a result of the heat) then you might need a new one, at which point you might find the cost of repairs suddenly goes beyond the actual value of a 2006 X-Trail. The moral of the story is to keep an eye on the temperature gauge and not to ignore the first signs of the engine beginning to run hot. Pulling up to add water after the thing has overheated is a classic case of shutting the gate after the horse has bolted.

    If you do wish to keep the car, my advice would be - once you’ve established the extent of the carnage - to find a good second-hand engine from a wrecked X-Trail and have that fitted. It would almost certainly be the cheaper option in the long run.

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