Mitsubishi Problems

It is always disappointing when the new car you buy comes with flaws, like yours has done. It's always wise to closely inspect a new car before accepting it, and identifying problems before you've handed over your money, and having the issues resolved there and then. Not having done that you're in the situation of negotiating with the dealer from a weak position, in other words he's got your money. Ask the dealer for a meeting to discuss the issue directly with him and work out a plan of action that he will undertake to resolve the problem to your satisfaction, and do not accept your car back until you are satisfied. You could also seek the advice of a paint specialist, like Graeme Cuthbert (0422 444 335), who could inspect the car for you before and after the rectification work.

While we often get reports of rapid brake wear, but have never had any about the Triton. You’ve obviously seen the pads and say they are not worn or discoloured, so I would be asking the dealer to justify the advice they’ve given you. One possibility is that they are glazed.

You should have walked away having seen the rust instead of going ahead and buying the car, but having bought it you’re in a bit of a pickle. You need to assemble all of the information about the car’s history that you can, and then consult an independent expert to get an opinion on the cause of the rust. It’s a little unfair on Mitsubishi to present them with a claim without any supporting documentation to back it.

What you’ve been told, that it’s a sticking lifter, is the most likely explanation and it’s generally not a serious issue. Change the oil and filter and that should cure it, but it could be that one or more lifters are faulty and in need of replacement.

It’s a great feeling when having spent many tens of thousands of dollars you get treated badly by the dealer isn’t it. Thankfully it’s not the norm, but it does happen and it shouldn’t. If I were you I would be very angry that I have been sold a car that is faulty and I would demand a replacement car, or my money back if they couldn’t fix it within a reasonable time. A week or two should be enough to come up with a fix; a year or more is ludicrous. You need to stand up for your rights.

The TE is an old model and yours has probably done around 200,000 km based on the kays you do annually, so I would be wary of converting it. The modern injection systems are the most efficient, but I doubt you will find one for the TE because of its age. That leaves an old type of mixer/venturi system, which works well and has done for many years. In terms of payback I would think you should recover the cost of installing the system in two to three years.

They’re generally a solid transmission and don’t give too much trouble. As for your car it is still relatively young and really should have 100,000 km or more in it without any major troubles, so it’s well worth considering keeping it, particularly if it has been trouble free apart from the transmission glitch. Buying a new Pajero is by far the most expensive option, and I would only suggest you do that if you have lost confidence in your current car. Before buying new I would certainly suggest you look at the used option, as a one to two-year-old car is almost as good as new and you would save a lot of money on the purchase, and of course the person who bought it new would have copped the massive initial depreciation.

I would say it's impossible for water to get into your tyres, other than moisture in the airline you used when inflating them. If water could get in by any way other than through the hose then air could get out the same way and you would have noticed you had flat tyres. A wheel alignment won't help, so just get them balanced.

It’s likely that it has overheated for some reason, which would explain why it was hard to restart and the coolant loss. The thermo fan won’t run if the ignition is not switched on, so check that before assuming it’s a problem with the fan. If the fan isn’t working as you say it could be a problem with the fan motor or a relay that’s failed and preventing power getting to the fan.

The ticking noise is unlikely to be associated with your problem. I would have a mechanic tune the engine and make sure all is well with the ignition and fuel systems.