2020 Mazda 3 Pricing and Specs

It all depends of what sort of a leak we’re talking about here. If the tank is constantly leaking after it’s been filled up, there’s clearly some sort of hole somewhere in the tank or its plumbing from the filler neck to the tank proper. You could surmise that the level of fuel in the tank at which the leak stops, is also the level of the hole or crack. As the fuel drains further (as you drive the car) the fuel level is below that of the leak-point and the leak stops. Either way, this is a dangerous situation as even if there’s no liquid fuel leaking, there’s almost certainly fuel vapour escaping (which is more flammable than petrol itself).

While it’s rare for a tank to fail, much more common is having the plumbing which takes the fuel from the filler neck to the tank cause a leak. But if the leak stops soon after you’ve filled up, it could simply be that a small amount of fuel has sloshed out of the filler neck and into the car’s body near the neck, where it can drain away, thanks to gravity, towards the bottom of the car where you’re seeing it. Next time you fill up, be sure not to overfill the tank and remember to use the watering can on hand to slosh away any spilled or excess fuel.

That’s not a bad innings for a four-cylinder engine, even a modern one (although I’ve seen similar engines with more kilometres and still going strong). There’s a fair chance the piston rings and valve stem seals have lost some of their mojo and are allowing the oil to be burned in the engine. It’s normal wear and tear, but it needs to be fixed on the basis of the pollution being produced from the tailpipe. Also, eventually, something major will fail spectacularly and leave you stranded.

Your options include rebuilding the current engine or finding a second-hand engine with fewer kilometres on board and simply swapping it into your car. Thanks to the fact that the Mazda 3 was a popular car with younger drivers, they’re somewhat over-represented in wrecking yards, often with engines in very good condition. This would certainly be cheaper than rebuilding your current engine.

It’s a bit silly, isn’t it? There’s absolutely no reason for a speedo in an Australian delivered car to read to 260km/h, particularly in a car that would never manage to gain that much velocity without the help of a mine-shaft. There’s no ADR requirement for it, either, so it’s probably a hang-over from other markets where average freeway speeds are much higher than they are here. In Germany, for instance, where there are still unrestricted sections of autobahn, the 200-plus-km/h speedo makes more sense.

You’re probably right when you suggest this is all a one-size-fits-all approach by Mazda (and many other car-makers) who can save a few dollars by making only one speedo calibration and fitting it to cars for every market. More recently, a lot of cars have both a conventional and a digital speedometer fitted. Many owners have come to rely on the latter for clarity. My preference is for an analogue (needle) speedometer that has 100 or 110km/h at the 12-o’clock position on the dial.