2007 Hyundai Tucson Pricing and Specs

If a car overheats (for whatever reason, but a blown head gasket is a prime cause of this) the damage to the engine internally can be catastrophic. Pretty much any component can be compromised after an overheating event, so knowing where to start looking is the big question here.

Changing the head gasket requires removal of the cylinder head, and reassembly involves making sure that the camshaft timing is reinstated correctly. If there’s been a mistake made in this regard, the engine will almost certainly not run. 

Certainly, injector failure is not unknown in modern turbo-diesels, but the fuelling system on a modern, common-rail turbo-diesel is a complex, fine-tolerance arrangement, so you also need to check the filters, fuel pump(s) and operating pressures. Even then, you might find that a simple, cheap-to-replace sensor is the single component preventing the vehicle from running.

I’d start with an electronic interrogation of the car’s computer. The problem there is that if the car hasn’t actually run with the issue that’s preventing it from starting, the computer may not have had the opportunity to log the problem in the first place. That said, a simple fault code might be all you need to know to move forward, so a scan is in order. Beyond that, it’s back to first principles, checking the timing and clearances of all the mechanical bits and pieces, including having the injectors bench-tested.

It could be either the car or the remote-control unit at fault, and it’s impossible to tell without actually examining the vehicle. A remote-control unit with a battery that is low on voltage can cause all sorts of mysterious problems with a car’s central locking. But it’s also possible that the vehicle’s body-computer (which controls all the functions involved in unlocking and starting the car) could be malfunctioning also. If that’s the case, it will be a much more involved and expensive job than changing the battery in a remote-control unit.

The Hyundai brand has developed an enviable reputation in this country for reliability and quality. The brand’s warranty is also excellent, taking away even more buyer anxiety. With that in mind, the decision to go diesel or petrol comes down to the way you use the vehicle.

This applies to all brands, not just Hyundai, but if all (or most of) your driving will be urban or suburban based, then the petrol engine is for you. Yes, you’ll use a little more fuel than the diesel variant, but servicing costs could be a little lower and you’ll avoid the modern turbo-diesel’s biggest downfall; a blocked Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF).

The DPF is an emissions device that traps the soot from the diesel engine and burns it off at a later date. The problem with that is that the DPF can only burn off the soot and regenerate itself if the engine (and exhaust system) gets to a temperature high enough for this to happen. In urban running, that doesn’t just doesn’t happen, at which point the on-board computer will either try to force a regeneration (not always successful) or the DPF will have to be manually cleaned or even replaced (and that’s costly).

The bottom line, then, is that a turbo-diesel (even a modern one) is only for you if you will be driving the car at highway speeds for at least half an hour at least once a month (once a fortnight is better). If that’s how you use a car, then the diesel should be okay; if not, it’s petrol every time.