Are you having problems with your Honda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Honda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Honda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
Show all
There’s a bit of detail missing from your question, Peter, but I’ll take a stab in the dark and guess that you’re talking about the Honda Jazz city car. The MY06 Jazz was, in fact, known as the GD model, while the GE you’re comparing it with was released in 2008.
The GE was an all-new model Jazz, so fundamentally they’re entirely different cars. Yes, they share a similar mechanical specification and share a place in terms of their market segments, but beyond that, the GE is a newer design with better dynamics and superior safety levels.
If you can afford the later GE model, then it would definitely be a better car.
Well, if you’re looking for a fuel-efficient car, then a Honda Jazz is a very good choice. With an official combined fuel-consumption figure as low as 5.7 litres per 100km, and the ability to run on the cheaper 91-RON unleaded, the Jazz’s weekly fuel costs will be among the lowest around.
But $15,000 is a crazy figure. The entry-level Jazz was only about $16,000 when brand-new, so even though the kilometres showing on this one are extremely low, the price being asked is astronomical. The most expensive 2008 Jazzes out there are asking around $8000 (and that’s too much) with plenty out there for $4000 or less.
The difference would be if you meant to type 2018 instead of 2008 (which is a better match with the odometer reading you’re quoting) at which point $15,000 starts to look like roughly the right price to be paying. Either way, the Jazz is nicely built, drives well and will be very economical.
A few factors determine engine longevity, so let’s start with the first of those, the basic materials and design of the engine in question. Both the Toyota and Honda have advanced small-capacity engines that are made from quality materials. So that’s in their favour.
The second factor is servicing. A lack of regular maintenance including fresh oil and filters will kill engines fast, so that’s crucial. And finally, how they are driven will also play a part. An engine that only does long distances in the country will always last longer than one that is subjected to frequent cold starts and stop-start traffic. An engine that is regularly revved to redline between the gears will also potentially die younger than one that is driven sensibly and with a bit of mechanical sympathy.
The bottom line? There’s no short answer. But I have seen small-capacity Honda and Toyota engines clock up 250,000km and more with correct maintenance. Things have certainly changed from the 1950s when the average car engine needed a rebuilt every 100,000km and what was called a de-coke and valve-grind every 30,000km. Ask your grandfather about it.
The Honda Ridgeline towing capacity depends on the layout of its driveline. Front-wheel-drive models can tow a braked trailer of 1600kg, while the all-wheel-drive Ridgeline can legally tow (in the US where it’s sold) 2270kg.
The issue of a lack of performance from the Honda’s 2.4-litre four-cylinder engine is one that has been noted in the past, David. It stems not from the fact that it’s a four-cylinder, rather the way it has been tuned and specified at the factory. Like a lot of Honda engines, the engine was designed to deliver good horsepower and high revs and, while that makes for a sporty feel in the right car, it does nothing for the Odyssey’s role as a people-mover.
The root problem here is that the engine is tuned to make its maximum torque (the force that actually accelerates the car) at 4000rpm. Combine that with the odd nature of the standard CVT transmission and you had a recipe for a car that could feel quite lethargic around town. Throw in a full complement of six bodies and their luggage, and things only got worse.
Unfortunately, there’s no real way around this. You could have the engine retuned with an aftermarket chip in the computer, but it may not do very much except increase fuel consumption. At that same time, you could wave goodbye to any remaining factory warranty as it applied to the driveline. Manufacturers don’t like customers tinkering with that stuff and will usually claim that the modifications contributed to the mechanical failure.
All that being said, I have heard of people `chipping’ the Odyssey’s engine. But of all the examples I’ve seen, the net gain was just 11 or 12 or so kiloWatts; not enough to warrant the cost or transform the vehicle in any major way. Even then, I’d imagine the extra power to be high in the rev range, not down low where you want it.
It’s a fact that the top-rung version of a particular make and model will not only get all the luxury and convenience items, it’ll also usually be the first to score new safety tech, too. That’s why CarsGuide gives car-makers a pat on the back when they make new safety gear standard across the whole range. However, that’s the exception rather than the rule here, and most car-makers, including the ones you’ve mentioned have the same policy of loading up the more expensive variants in their line-up.
But before you dismiss all-wheel-drive as something you have to pay for to get better safety gear, understand that AWD itself is a safety boost. The extra grip given by driving all four wheels makes a car safer in all conditions, but especially in low-friction conditions. So, if safety is a concern (and it obviously is for you, Mark) then I reckon AWD is for you anyway.
Besides which, even though you’ve said you only driver to the snow every now and then, when those times arrive, you’ll be very pleased you paid for AWD.
You really need to go out and test drive both vehicles, because they both have their plusses and minuses and those will be graded according to your personal preferences. Overall, the RAV4 is a bigger vehicle (almost as big as the original Kluger, in fact) so that might come into the reckoning based purely on the size of your parking space at home.
The RAV4 rides a bit more softly but your choice of the range-topping VTi-LX in the Honda is a good one because that’s the only model in the line-up that includes autonomous emergency braking, lane-keeping and adaptive cruise-control. That said, the RAV4 has all those features, too, but extends them to the bulk of the models offered, not just the top-spec version.
On warranty and fuel economy, both compare pretty closely, so it will come down to the little things that you personally find important; things like the Honda’s doors that open almost to 90-degrees and the Toyota’s vast rear seat legroom and cavernous luggage space. Over to you.
I think what’s happening when you open the fuel cap, Frank, is not a release of pressure, but rather a release of vacuum. As your car uses petrol, the level in the tank gets lower. If the tank can’t `breathe’, allowing air to fill that space in the tank, a vacuum is created. Eventually, the vacuum becomes so powerful that the car’s fuel pump can no longer drag fuel from the tank to the engine and the car stalls.
When you remove the fuel cap, hey presto, the vacuum is released and the fuel pump can do its thing once more. In modern cars, this is often caused by the charcoal canister (a part of the pollution-control equipment) becoming clogged and not allowing air back into the fuel tank. I’ve actually seen cases so bad that the vacuum has actually collapsed the fuel tank under the car (must have been a powerful fuel pump).
Driving around with no fuel cap on is both dangerous and illegal (it renders those pollution controls useless because it allows fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere) so the solution is to find out where the blockage is and replace the relevant parts. Like I said, I’d start with the charcoal canister in the engine bay. It could even be that dust or dirt is blocking one of the rubber hoses that link the pollution gear systems. It might seem like a big problem, but from the symptoms you’ve listed, I think it’ll be an easy fix.
It doesn’t sound right to me that simply having the navigation turned on would preclude listening to the radio as well. The navigation will certainly cut across the radio when it needs to deliver the next direction, but beyond that it should just work away in the background. If that’s not the case, I’d say you have a problem within the system.
My insiders at Honda tell me that the MY2021 HR-V (released last month) has an upgraded entertainment system that has been developed in response to customer input and is said to be a better all-round device with greater connectivity. At this stage, there’s no word on whether the system will be able to be retro-fitted to your model Honda, but there’s a chance that it might be. A chat with your dealer sounds in order.