Holden Problems

This is a very common complaint among owners of Holdens of this era. If you’ve checked all the likely places for water to enter, then you have to start thinking laterally. Does the car have an aftermarket of dealer-fitted rear spoiler? The mounting holes of these can be great places for water to enter the boot. But believe it or not, this series of full-sized Holdens was also susceptible to a manufacturing glitch where the rear quarter-light windows weren’t sealed properly. Water can, apparently, enter here and find it’s way into the boot. It sounds crazy, but I’m assured it’s a thing with these cars.

Your problem could be a gear-selection issue within the gearbox or the selector linkages, but it’s also very likely to be a clutch problem instead. Many people think that the first sign of a worn clutch is one that slips when you accelerate. And in many cases, that’s so. But sometimes, you can have a clutch that wears differently and, in that case, an early symptom can be difficulty in selecting gears from a standing start as the clutch refuses to disengage completely. As the problem progresses, you might find it difficult even to select higher gears once you’re moving.

A workshop should be able to diagnose what’s going on, but we definitely wouldn’t be rushing out to replace the gearbox when a much simpler, cheaper clutch replacement might very possibly put things right.

The good news is that this probably isn’t an actual gearbox problem, but rather one with the mechanical linkages that select each gear or perhaps even the gear selector itself. If you can remove the centre console, you might be able to locate the offending (loose) fastener that is allowing the gear lever to flop about and not find its proper place.

If, however, you mean that the vehicle doesn’t want to select Drive properly first thing in the morning and either won’t move or moves very slowly when you accelerate, then you could well be looking at a worn transmission. That said, the same problem can be caused by a transmission that is simply low on fluid, and a top up will put things right. So that’s the first step: Check the owner’s manual for the correct fluid-checking process and try that. If a top-up doesn’t fix it, it’s off to a mechanic. But beware – driving the car in that state could be doing extra damage to the transmission.

Because the central locking system in your Captiva has been designed specifically for that car, it’s unlikely there would be a workable aftermarket solution. Which means you either need to hope that Holden still sells these parts or that you can find a system pulled from a wrecked Captiva.

We have seen 'universal' central locking kits advertised, but they all require a fair bit of fiddling and modifying to get them to fit and work properly. In any case, it’s possible that only one part of the system in your car is giving trouble, as opposed to the whole locking system. In turn, that means that you might be able to get away with just replacing that faulty part. The remote-control key-fob unit, for instance, can be replaced relatively cheaply.

Bear in mind the Holden Captiva has a terrible track record in terms of its electrical fittings and fixtures, including the body computer which controls many functions including the central locking. If the body computer is the problem, you might find that the cost of repairs will outweigh the car’s actual market value.

The Holden Captiva’s problems started with the fact that it was a Daewoo with a Holden badge. Reliability was poor and build quality just as bad and, as a result, the car soon developed a reputation for being more trouble than it was worth. That view among many owners didn’t change as the car aged, either.

Common problems were timing chain failures in V6 versions, oil leaks and engine troubles in both diesel and petrol form, camshaft problems, diesel particulate Filter (DPF) failures and a range of random electrical and electronic dramas. Transmission failures are also not unknown but this was hardly the Captiva’s worst flaw. Fundamentally, the Captiva was a very ordinary car and not one that most buyers would be prepared to take on now that the true extent of its problems have been dissected by the trade.

The five-speed automatic in your Calais is a bit of an odd one, Mark, as it was only used for a handful of years and only in the high-feature 3.6-litre V6. Holden switched the car to a six-speed automatic in September 2009, so technically, that would be possible to fit to your car. As with a lot of these things, however, it’s not as simple as finding a gearbox and bolting it in. Modern engineering dictates that the five-speed and six-speed transmissions, while physically similar, may have featured bigger differences in terms of the information they fed to the car’s on-board computer and the program within that computer that, in turn, told the gearbox what to do next.

At the very least, you’d need the electronic transmission-control module to make the six-speed work and possibly some changes to sensors and wiring. Even then, you might find that your speedometer needs recalibration. Unlike the good old days when the transmission was simply a set of gears, a modern transmission these days is a much more sophisticated piece of equipment and does a much more complex job.

I’d definitely be talking to Holden’s customer service department. I agree that 92,000km is a long way short of what I’d consider to be the lifespan of a modern motor vehicle, even if it has taken you more than five years to reach that mileage. In any case, nobody will be buying new Holdens any longer as the brand no longer exists.

Meanwhile, you’re right, transmission failures are a well known fault with this make and model and Holden did extend the factory warranty on them to 130,000km. Unfortunately, the five-year limit also applied which is where you’ve run out of time. I would hate to think that Holden’s demise as a brand will leave existing owners high and dry, but I can imagine that’s just how you’re feeling. Without an active factory presence in Australia, though, it might be difficult to get much joy from Holden.

If replacing the actual sensor doesn’t fix the problem, then you could be looking at a problem with the wiring that connects that oxygen sensor to the car’s on-board computer. Did the mechanic that changed the sensor check the condition of the wiring? This equipment all lives very close to a very hot exhaust system, so damage from that is not unknown.

There’s also a chance that the computer itself is throwing up a bogus fault code when it’s interrogated. Temporarily swapping the computer for another one is a reasonably simple way to rule this out. There’s also a chance (and it’s more common than you might imagine) that the brand new oxygen sensor you had fitted was a dud straight out of the box. This has definitely been known to happen, and it’s the first thing some experienced mechanics will think to check.

The short answer is no, as the Mazda6 has never sold to expectations and all the action in the luxury sphere is in SUVs or crossovers.

However, with Mazda heading into the premium space and in model-sharing activities with arch-rival Toyota, a 6-style sedan based on the mooted coming, rear-drive and inline six-cylinder powered CX-5 replacement is expected, possibly to be shared with a Toyota or Lexus model. These are pure rumours right now, but a possible scenario as Mazda attempts to amortise the development and engineering costs of its next-generation architectures.

But we don't believe a sedan or wagon larger than a Mazda6 would be part of these future plans – not in the foreseeable future, anyway.

A better idea would be to fix the sensor that’s creating the false alarms. That will probably be simpler and quicker than finding the right wire to cut or fuse to pull out, as well as maintaining the car’s legality. A car that doesn’t have all its safety equipment functioning properly is, technically, unroadworthy and if that fault can be blamed for any injury in a crash, then you could be in real trouble in a legal and insurance sense.

Don’t forget, too, that a car such as yours will usually have a sensor to determine whether the seat-belt is secured and another to determine if the passenger’s seat is occupied. Either of those could conceivably be causing your false alarm.