Holden Colorado 2014 Problems

The message is to warn you that a problem has been detected with the ESP. Take it to a dealer and have them check it for you

Modern common-rail diesel engines with their sophisticated, multi-pump fuel systems and high-pressure injectors can stop in their tracks for any number of reasons, not all of them electrical. You could start by checking the battery and the charge-rate from the alternator (if the engine will restart). But you also really need to be checking the fuel system and the obvious stuff such as a dud ignition barrel that’s shutting everything down. A simple fuse or relay that controls the fuel pump system could have failed, too, with similar results.

The absolute best advice is to have the vehicle electronically scanned at a workshop with this type of diagnostic gear. By having the vehicle tell you what’s wrong with it, you’ll save a whole lot of time and money replacing random bits and pieces, hoping that you’ve identified the culprit.

The trick to a diagnosis here might be to find out what rotational bits and pieces are involved. To do that, you need to work out whether the noise is wheel-speed related, driveshaft-related or engine and transmission-related. The driveshaft spins fastest, followed by the driveshafts and finally the wheels, axles and brakes. So that’s probably the key to it.

Even something as simple as a bent or loose brake shield can cause a rattle, squeak or grinding noise, and some owners have gone so far as to strap GoPro cameras under the car and take it for a drive to see what’s going on. A mechanical workshop will probably be a bit more scientific, but the basics of troubleshooting remain the same.

As far as the driveline locking for a moment, you could be looking at a related problem or a completely separate issue. It’s probably wise to make sure the transfer case isn’t suddenly shifting into neutral or low-range on its own for that split-second, as that could cause driveline chaos. But a sticking brake caliper or faulty ABS module could potentially also cause the same sensation.

Some cars cycle their ABS systems when you first start up and take off, and this can lead to a metallic noise for a second or two and a slight buzz through the car. It can be intermittent, too. Are you sure that’s not what you’re hearing?

If the mechanic/repairer is a qualified and registered company they should have some guarantee on the quality of their work. Take the car back and show them what your are unhappy about and ask for the work to be done again, or compensation. If they are not qualified or registered with a trade organisation you have little comeback.

Since both variants of Colorado here use essentially the same engine, I’m not sure what sensors would be different and require changing. That said, the MY17 Colorado got recalibrated hill-descent and hill-start functions, so maybe there are some differences there.

The major mechanical difference that I can see between a 2014 and a 2017 Colorado is probably the power-steering. In late 2016, the vehicle switched to an electrically-assisted system in place of the previous hydraulic set-up. So the later engine would probably lack the pulleys and mounting hardware for the hydraulic power-steering pump that your vehicle requires. Perhaps they can be removed from the old engine and fitted to the later one.

Perhaps an easier solution would be to return the engine originally supplied and ask for the correct version for your car. If the engine supplied originally was not fit for purpose, then you’ve every right to ask for a replacement unit that is.

I agree that two weeks is too long to have to wait, the dealer’s workshop is poorly organized if he has to wait that long. I wouldn’t be concerned about driving the car of the light is not illuminated, if it comes on again, stop and turn the ignition off and on again. That might be enough to reboot the computer and keep you going. If it’s coming on regularly then certainly have the cause investigated.

Noises like this are mostly temporary and are caused by a small rock or some other foreign object becoming jammed between the brake disc and the brake pad. Often, a sharp jab of the brake pedal (when it’s safe to do so) will dislodge the object and peace will be restored.

But if you’ve replaced the wheel bearings, then you’ve already had to remove the brakes. So unless the stone or whatever is lodged deep in the brake pad material, that’s probably not the cause here. Which means you need to look more closely.

The ABS sensor is an interesting theory, but I’d imagine if the clip had broken and dived into the front end anywhere, you’d have an ABS warning light on the dashboard by now. Perhaps it’s something to do with the front hub or the front driveshaft assembly. Perhaps a CV joint? Check for damage to the CV joints’ rubber boots. Don’t rule out a pothole having wrecked your wheel alignment, at which point what you’re hearing is a front tyre being torn to shred.

And what about the power steering system. These can squeal when they’re low on fluid, have air in the system, the belt is slipping or the pump itself is worn out.

This model Colorado doesn't have a completely clean rap sheet in terms of its long-term reliability, so I'd definitely want to see a complete service history with no gaps or skipped maintenance. Beyond that, manual-transmission versions of this car didn't like towing and had a small gearbox component that could fail requiring a new gearbox.

But even an automatic version was known to have (in some examples) oil consumption problems (Holden's fix was to fit a different dip-stick to alter owners' perception of the consumption). Other problems included leaking coolant plugs, electrical wiring issues and even water leaks into the cabin.

All that said, the Holden was actually an Isuzu D-Max under the skin; a vehicle that has a better than average record for reliability among its peers.

Make sure the camera lens is clean and there’s nothing obstructing its field of view. If all is well there have a dealer check it.

As a modern, conventional design, your Holden is negatively earthed (or, grounded). That is, the negative terminal of the battery is connected to the car’s body and engine to complete the circuit for the electrics to function.

But it wasn’t always this way, and in the USA and particularly Britain, many makes and models were positively earthed. Farm machinery and motorcycles were also often positively earthed. I’ve even heard that Dodge cars from the 1920s and 1930 were positively earthed in Canada, and negatively earthed in the US.

There’s a theory that negative earthing is better for preventing corrosion due to electrolysis, but it seems not all engineers agree on this. Ultimately, negative earth is the conventional setup today. Just make sure you don’t get it wrong as hooking up a battery the wrong way around in a modern car is a fair chance to blow the computers and other electronics to smithereens.