The 2018 Haval H6 range of configurations is currently priced from $10,890.
Our most recent review of the 2018 Haval H6 resulted in a score of 6.2 out of 10 for that particular example.
Carsguide Contributor Dan Pugh had this to say at the time: While it scores marks for stylish looks, practicality and pricing, the H6's less refined cabin and driving foibles are hard to overlook. In a red-hot SUV market, this places it well behind its rivals, and something tells me the H6 Lux will suffer from the sheer amount of competition in its segment, with buyers genuinely spoiled for choice.
You can read the full review here.
This is what Dan Pugh liked most about this particular version of the Haval H6: Good looks, Commendable practicality, Razor-sharp pricing
The Haval H6 is also known as Great Wall H6, Hover H6 in markets outside Australia.
The Haval H6 2018 prices range from $10,890 for the basic trim level SUV Premium to $15,400 for the top of the range SUV Lux.
Haval H6 Model | Body Type | Specs | Price from | Price to |
---|---|---|---|---|
Premium
|
Body Type: SUV | Specs: 2.0L PULP 6 SP AUTO | Price From: $10,890 |
Price To:
$14,850
|
Lux
|
Body Type: SUV | Specs: 2.0L PULP 6 SP AUTO | Price From: $11,550 |
Price To:
$15,400
|
Any time a mechanic sees an illogical pattern of faults like these all at once, their suspicions are always drawn to the body computer. This computer controls all the functions you’ve mentioned as well as hundred more, and when it goes on the fritz (as computers are wont to do) you can suddenly get all sorts of weird behaviour, just like you’re reporting.
Take the car to an auto electrician who might be able to make sense of what could be a complex wiring issue. But the smart money says body computer every time. These can be replaced by a new computer, second-hand ones from a wreck and sometimes even fixed by very clever people. If the auto electrician can’t offer any advice, get online and see what help is out there.
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Whether this is a problem or not all depends on how much oil you consider to be too much. There’s an old school of thought that says an internal combustion engine shouldn’t use any engine oil. That’s not actually accurate. A small amount of oil is scraped past the engine’s piston rings and burned every time the engine turns over (which it typically does at anything up to 7000 times a minute). So some reduction in the level of oil in the sump is pretty much inevitable.
Some modern engines also use low friction internal components to make them more fuel efficient and, in some makes and models, this has had the effect of increasing oil consumption. Again, this is perfectly normal and the pay-off is you use less fuel.
Rather than just a drop in oil level, you should be looking at the drop compared with the kilometres you’ve covered. A car that consumes, say, a litre of oil (or even two litres) between its 10,000km oil changes is not a problem at all. Some manufacturers even say a greater level of oil consumption than this is still within acceptable tolerances. Anything up to 1.5 litres per 1000km can still be within a car-maker’s specification.
What you’re really looking for when checking your oil level is any change in the engine’s oil sipping habits. A sudden increase in the amount it normally consumes is when you need to start looking more closely.
That said, if the car is using too much oil, then it’s either being burned in the engine (suggesting worn engine parts) or it’s escaping the engine somehow (otherwise known as a good old-fashioned oil leak). A big patch of oil on the ground where the car is normally parked means you need to go hunting for a leak.
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It’s definitely not normal and the reason it feels dangerous when it loses grip and traction is because it is, indeed, very dangerous. Your car is fitted with stability control and anti-lock brakes, two safety features that help prevent the wheels skidding even on a wet road. Obviously, these features don’t make the car uncrashable, because they can’t do anything about the laws of physics, but they should help reduce the chances of the tyres losing grip.
If you’re experiencing skidding during normal driving and braking, then I’d suggest the car has a fault with either or both of these technologies and it’s really not safe – or legal – to drive in its current state. It needs to be checked out by a specialist who should also check the condition and inflation of the tyres, as worn tyres are a major contributor to a loss of grip in the wet.
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Haval H6 Model | Body Type | Specs | Braked Capacity |
---|---|---|---|
Lux
|
Body Type: SUV | Specs: 2.0L PULP 6 SP AUTO |
Braked Capacity:
0kg
|
Premium
|
Body Type: SUV | Specs: 2.0L PULP 6 SP AUTO |
Braked Capacity:
0kg
|
Haval H6 Model | Body Type | Height x Width x Length | Ground Clearance |
---|---|---|---|
Lux
|
Body Type: SUV | Height x Width x Length: 1700x1835x4549 mm |
Ground Clearance:
145 mm
|
Premium
|
Body Type: SUV | Height x Width x Length: 1700x1835x4549 mm |
Ground Clearance:
145 mm
|
Haval H6 Model | Body Type | Specs | Fuel Consumption |
---|---|---|---|
Lux
|
Body Type: SUV | Specs: 2.0L PULP 6 SP AUTO |
Fuel Consumption:
9.8L/100km
|
Haval H6 Model | Body Type | Front Tyre Size | Front Rim | Rear Rim |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lux
|
Body Type: SUV | Front Tyre Size: 225x55 R19 | Front Rim: 7x19 in |
Rear Rim:
7x19 in
|
Premium
|
Body Type: SUV | Front Tyre Size: 225x65 R17 | Front Rim: 6.5x17 in |
Rear Rim:
6.5x17 in
|