Are you having problems with your Ford Falcon? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford Falcon issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford Falcon in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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The reasons why a lamp may not be working can be varied. The most common cause is the use of poor replacement globes. Like all components, globes have a set life span and will need to be replaced. When one globe does go, replace both because they will have the same life span and the other one will probably fail soon after the first. Also use quality globes, which are normally available from an auto-electrician and will last longer. Heat can be a problem affecting globe life. Globes heat up quite quickly when in use, and can fail if there's not enough air flow around them to dissipate the heat. It's a particular problem with high-mount stop lights which are often contained within small, tightly sealed housings with little cooling air flow. Added to which it is not uncommon for owners to fit incorrect globes, usually globes of too high a wattage, and these can overheat more easily in the stop-light environment, sometimes to the point of melting the socket. Water is another cause if there's a poor seal around the lamp.
All vehicles with automatic transmissions are fitted with a safety device that prevents the starter from engaging unless the transmission is in Neutral or Park. The device, usually a switch on the transmission, is connected to the ignition. If the car is in gear, you can switch the ignition on, but the starter won't engage when you try to start the engine. The dash lights normally go out when the ignition switch is moved to the start position. Though you have had the neutral-start safety switch checked, I would suggest you have it checked again to see if it is correctly installed and adjusted. Also check the alignment of the shifter and the wiring to make sure there are no loose or bad connections. The fact you can tap the shift to make it work suggests the fault is a mechanical one. If you can get the same result by moving the shift lever just slightly back or forth, you can be almost sure it's an adjustment problem.
It has been generally held that running slightly higher tyre pressures than those recommended by the carmakers improves braking, handling and fuel consumption, while reducing ride comfort. There is some truth in all of that, but remember that whatever pressure you settle on it will be a compromise, and that is the same compromise that carmakers wrestle with in determining their recommendations. Instructors at high-performance driving schools strongly advocate higher tyre pressures for the handling benefits they deliver, and that works for a racetrack environment, but it's not optimum for a road environment where your tyres have to perform several important functions. The belief in the tyre business now is that drivers should follow the carmakers' recommendations for the best all-round tyre performance.
Are you sure the temperature gauge is working correctly? It would be worthwhile making sure it is so you can rely on the reading you're seeing. Assuming it is working correctly, check the radiator and overflow reservoir and make sure they are filled to the correct level. Check the owner's manual for your car and you will find the correct level for the fluid in the reservoir when the engine is cold. Do not fill beyond that level. When the engine warms, the coolant in the system heats up and expands and some coolant will flow through to the reservoir. You'll find a maximum fluid level marked on the reservoir and the coolant should not exceed that when the engine is hot. That coolant will be drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools again.
WE HAVEN'T had any other reports of this problem, but Ford says it could be due to the tyres, as you suggest. Their response to your problem was: The new Dunlop SP3000 tyres on BA XRs have a unique sidewall construction. On cold mornings it is possible to detect a slight vibration from cold flat spots which, after a couple of kilometres' driving, are gone.
There's virtually no similarity between the Bathurst racers and the road cars you and I buy from Ford or Holden, apart from a vaguely similar appearance. The engines are purpose-built 5.0-litre V8s. Neither Ford nor Holden have a production 5.0-litre V8 on sale. The gearboxes are purpose-built for racing and the suspensions are special, as are the brakes, wheels and tyres. The bodies may look like the production equivalent, but they're specially built, incorporating roll cages and other reinforcements. And get this: the Commodores now run a Falcon-type wishbone front suspension instead of the MacPherson strut the production cars run. The Commodore racers have long-run Ford nine-inch diffs as well.
WE asked Ford for help on this one and they suggest that you take the car back to your Ford dealer who will either fix it or replace the belt under warranty. Their guess is that the inertia reel may be bent which could explain why the belt is locked.
The Falcon is now virtually 100 per cent metric. Ford switched over with the AU. The only A/F items are some seat and seat-belt mountings, and to change them would mean considerable expense in retesting to meet Australian Design Rules. And only qualified people with the appropriate tools should work on safety-related hardware.