Ask The Guide

There’s not a lot of good news here for the home mechanic, I’m afraid. No doubt some of the code-readers you can buy online will do the job, but it’s all a bit of a lottery. In many cases, you’re buying a code-reader from overseas, and while it might cover the car you own, it might be loaded with the software for a different version of the same model. Also, you can’t update the reader with new software as it becomes available and, in many cases, you’ll need more than one code-reader to cover all of the car’s systems.

According to a lot of workshops, generic code-readers aren’t worth the bother and will often only give you the fault code-number, rather than an explanation of what the fault actually is. Sometimes, they’ll just flash up a message that you should refer the problem to a dealership. Not very helpful.

I spoke to a Daewoo specialist workshop about this and was told that the code-readers worth bothering with start at about $8000 and go all the way to $12,000. Which, I imagine, is more than you wanted to spend.

From experience, vehicles like the D-Max (and many others) are very hard on front wheel bearings. But you’re right, that’s really because the majority of them are all-wheel-drive while yours is rear-drive. So I would imagine wheel-bearing service intervals would be a lot longer than 30,000km.

The problem with four-wheel-drives is that the front wheels are being asked to do an awful lot. As well as steering the vehicle, they also have torque going to them from the engine. Also, since these vehicles tend to be used off-road, the wheels and bearings are routinely dunked in silty or even salty water. That shortens the lifespan of any components. The heavy turbo-diesel engine sitting over the front wheels also adds to wear in these cars, and could be part of the reason for such regular maintenance.

Or, it may simply be that Isuzu has made a blanket decision that all D-Maxes, regardless of driveline, have their wheel bearings repacked every 30,000km. It certainly won’t hurt to have the bearings inspected every 30,000km, but I’d be very surprised if they needed repacking every time. Some of these vehicles also use a sealed-for-life bearing and require replacement rather than repacking.

The difference would be if your vehicle was still under warranty (which, being a 2010 model, it’s not) at which point you’d need to stick with the factory service schedule to keep your warranty intact.

I’ll assume you had a good poke around the various settings menus before contacting us, Sweta, so I’ll skip that part of the advice. But from what I can gather, your privately-imported car may not actually have the functionality to switch to an English-language format.

Different markets have different specifications for this and sometimes the same vehicle can be built in two (or more) different factories around the world. Certainly, if the car you own had been destined for a market outside Japan, it would have had multi-lingual abilities. But, if it was only ever destined for the Japanese home market, there’s a big chance it only has Japanese programmed into it.

If that’s the case, you might find you need to change the entire head unit. That might be wise anyway, as some Japanese radio stations operate on a wave-length that isn’t used in Australia. Basically, this is another of the pitfalls of parallel-imported cars.

By 1998, the LandCruiser had gained bigger brakes and a bigger wheel and tyre combination, making these later versions the best for towing. Pre-1995 versions were limited to towing 2500kg, but the upgrade took that limit to 3500kg which is still competitive even today. The transmission makes no difference to this limit.

The Kia’s seven-year factory warranty is – and should be – a big selling point. But that’s countered by much more expensive servicing over the Hyundai. Keen driveaway pricing also works in the Kia’s favour, however. Frankly, both are great cars with lots of useable performance (they share the same engine, actually) and practical layouts.

So, it could come down to a philosophical debate: The i30 N Line sits one rung below the hero i30 version, the N. The GT, meanwhile, is the flagship Cerato, so you don’t need to explain to the neighbours why you didn’t buy the flashest one. But for a lot of buyers, a manual transmission is the gearbox of choice in quick little hatches like these, and only the Hyundai offers a six-speed manual or a seven-speed DCT. In the Kia, it’s the DCT or nothing.

The Forester is a good choice provided it has a full service history. True, you probably shouldn’t buy any relatively new vehicle without this document, but the Subaru engine is renowned for being reliable and durable provided it has never had any skipped oil changes. Skipped servicing allows sludge to build up in the oil, and the Subaru’s intricate oilways won’t tolerate it. Eventually, they gunk up and block the flow of oil to various vital engine components.

The Tiguan is a lovely car to drive, but concerns over its DSG transmission remain to haunt it and its stablemates. Meantime, conventional used-car wisdom says Toyota every time. Just make sure nobody has confused the RAV4 for an off-road machine and abused it accordingly.

Jump-starting a modern, computer-controlled car is fraught with dangers. Get it wrong and you can fry the electronics and that’s bound to cost plenty if you damage – and need to replace - the on-board brain. The conventional advice is to connect the positive lead of the jump-start kit to the positive terminal of your car, but attach the negative lead of the jump-pack to a solid, metal part of the car. As in, not the actual negative battery terminal. That reduces the chance of sparks that could ignite the flammable gasses batteries give off. Make sure the ignition is switched off when you connect, too.

The best advice is to also make sure you’re using a set of surge-protected jumper leads ort a jump-pack that’s similarly protected as it’s the power surge (or spike) that kills electronics. The other piece of advice is; if you’re unsure about jump-starting, leave it to somebody who knows.

Opinions are divided on this subject, Steve, but there’s a school of thought that says you shouldn’t tow anything heavy in an overdrive gear. Manual-gearbox Toyota LandCruisers of the last 30 years or so are prime examples of this, and hauling a heavy load in fifth gear in these can destroy a gearbox real quick. But all vehicles will be better off with overdrive locked out while towing; it’s just kinder to the driveline. So, your decision to tow in fifth gear rather than sixth is a sound one.

The only catch with some vehicles is that both fifth and sixth gears are overdriven. But fifth gear in the BT-50’s automatic gearbox is not, it’s 1:1, so you should be fine as long as you don’t exceed the manufacturer’s towing limits at any stage.

As for putting bigger wheels and tyres on the BT-50, you’d actually be altering the gearing, making it taller, which means the vehicle may not cover ground as effortlessly as it does now. Hills and headwinds might require more throttle, too, and that will mean higher fuel consumption.

The Kia Rio only requires 91RON unleaded. The engine is tuned for that octane rating, so you won’t gain anything, apart from more space in your wallet, by switching to 95 or 98RON fuel. Despite every premium petrol marketing campaign suggesting otherwise, running on more expensive fuel won’t gain you any performance or greater fuel economy, so stick with 91.  

Theoretically, yes the transfer case could cause a clunk from the drivetrain, but without hearing the noise in person it is next to impossible to diagnose. You can find all recalls issued by Ford here.