Ask The Guide

The first thing to know is that if the car is not presented for delivery in the condition in which bit was described in the contract of sale, you don’t have to accept it. Without knowing the exact circumstances, it sounds as though the car may have ben used as the dealership’s demonstrator model. If that’s the case, it should be sold as such and at a discount to your fiancée.

Check the date of first registration. That might give you a clue as to how long it’s actually been driven on the road. You would expect a handful of kilometres to be added as the car is sent for pre-delivery and detailing, but 800km seems a bit sharp. If you go ahead, make sure you ask whether the warranty will start from the day you take delivery or will be back-dated to the date of first registration.

DPF technology is fast becoming the bane of turbo-diesel owners. The filter is designed to trap some of the nasty exhaust emissions of a diesel engine and then automatically burn them off at high temperature periodically, emptying the filter in the process. But way too often, this isn’t happening according to the script and filters are either clogging up, requiring a manual clean-out or, in extreme cases, complete replacement.

This is possibly what’s happened to your car and explains why both the DPF and check-engine light have illuminated. It’s the car’s way of telling you you need to act. While it’s generally true that vehicles like yours that do more highway kilometres than city running have fewer DPF problems, all turbo-diesel fitted with such a filter have the potential to give trouble. An electronic scan of the Triton should show whether the DPF and check-engine light are related.

Running over a piece of old fencing wire is not uncommon on farms and regional areas and, as you’ve discovered, it can do a lot of damage if it gets wrapped around a moving part. It sounds as though the inner CV joint is badly damaged and that’s allowing the axle to `float’ in and out of its proper position.

If you’re lucky, a replacement CV joint might be all that’s required. But a word of caution: Don’t attempt to drive the vehicle as it is. If the axle jumps ship from the differential completely, it can flail about under the vehicle, causing all sorts of expensive damage.

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

This is actually more difficult than it ought to be as VW Australia doesn’t seem to publish a Gross Combination Mass (GCM) figure for the Touareg. Neither is the GCM something you can confidently calculate by adding the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to the maximum towing mass (in the Touareg’s case, 3500kg). That’s because in many cases, a vehicle is not able to tow its maximum towed load while fully loaded itself. These limits are all calculated by the vehicle’s manufacturer and are seriously non-negotiable. It’s a bit of a trap for some owners who hitch up a big caravan or boat, only to discover that they then have very little payload remaining in the vehicle.

In any case, here are the relevant GCM figures for the 2015 Touareg: 150TDI – 6390kg; 180TDI – 6415kg; V8 – 6510kg.

Even if the two cars were from the same production month and year, you’ve got some serious mis-matches there; enough to make the job far more time, effort and money than it’s worth. For a start, the two-wheel-drive Colorado won’t have the extra differential and drive-shafts to mate with the twin drive-shafts that the all-wheel-drive gearbox will have. So you’d have to somehow blank that front driveshaft off. Or, add the front differential and axle which will also probably require different front suspension. Prop-shaft lengths are likely to be different between a manual and an automatic version of the same car, too.

Then there’s all the other things that can suddenly catch you out. In many cases, the manual and automatic versions of a particular car will have different transmission tunnels and different holes in the floor for the shifter to poke through. Even the centre consoles can be non-interchangeable. The dashboard of an automatic car with its PRNDL display will also be different to the manual one. Then there’s the question of wiring looms which can also be vastly different to suit the specific requirements of each driveline layout (a modern automatic needs lots of electrical inputs). In fact, the on-board computer is very likely to be different between the two transmissions on that basis as well.

Following on from that, what about the sensors to control the all-wheel-drive system? Or even the rotary dial inside the car to select the different four-wheel-drive modes? A two-wheel-drive car just won’t have them nor even possibly the access points to add them. And what about the real basics? Things like the automatic car not having a clutch pedal. That requires a full pedal change inside the car. None of this stuff is simple, easy or cheap.

To be honest, the engines themselves are very possibly interchangeable, but even if that’s all you swapped (and not the transmission) you’d still need to change the flywheel and plenty of little details.

By far the best advice is to simply buy the version of the Colorado you want.

You’d think this would be an easy one to answer, but, in reality, it’s far from it. That’s because different car-makers use different methods to calculate luggage space. So the first thing to do is ascertain which method the manufacturer of your car subscribes to. This information, usually expressed in litres, should be in the owner’s manual or specification sheet, but if not, you may have to contact the car-maker directly to find out.

The two main methods are called VDA and SAE. Many European car-makers use the VDA system which involves filling the luggage space with stacked one-litre blocks measuring 200mm X 50mm X 100mm. Clearly, the way the blocks are stacked will be crucial in eliminating wasted space (in corner and awkward shapes) so a stacker proficient at Tetris will achieve the best result. This method also involves stacking the car only to the height of the rear seat-back.

The SAE method involves packing an enclosed luggage space (like a sedan’s boot) with different shaped boxes of known capacities. These can range from large (60-litre plus) boxes to smaller lunchbox-sized containers, and different combinations thereof. For a hatchback or station-wagon where the luggage area is part of the cabin, the SAE method involves basic maths to calculate the space from the length, height and width measurements taken at various points in the load area.

The point is that these two methods will almost never give the same result, so, crazy though it may sound, perhaps lugging your stroller or golf clubs down to the dealership for a trial fit before you choose your next car is still a valid idea.

The rule of thumb states that if the engine fires on starting fluid sprayed down the intake, but won’t run on the fuel in its tank, the first thing to check is the fuel pump. Just because there was some fuel present when you cracked the seal on the fuel injector, does not necessarily mean that there’s enough of it or the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the engine.

Modern common-rail diesel engines use very sophisticated fuel systems which use super-high pressure. Without a pump to build up to this pressure, the injector won’t deliver the right amount of fuel for successful running. But you should also check the operation of the glow-plugs as well as the condition of the fuel filters. An electronic scan is also a good idea at this point, before you start replacing expensive bits and pieces.

Be extra careful fiddling with engines like this one, especially if you’re messing about with the injectors and fuel system. The inherent pressures are so high, that a leak can act like a water-jet cutter; sufficiently powerful to remove a finger.

By far the best thing to do with anything like animal urine, bird droppings, tree sap and industrial fallout on your car is to remove it with hot, soapy water as soon as you notice it.

Windscreen glass is not such a problem as it's more or less impervious to such stains, even though they can contain large amounts of acid (bird droppings are particularly acidic). But the car's paintwork, being potentially porous, is another matter altogether and plenty of paintjobs have been ruined by allowing these contaminants to sit on the car for longer periods. Leave them long enough and they'll eventually leach into the paint itself, leaving permanent stains.

You can use all sorts of detergents, but make sure they're designed for cars and painted surfaces. Don't be tempted to use household dishwashing liquid, as this has high levels of salt which can actually scratch the paint.

If the stain is already proving difficult to shift, you can try a cutting polish that might move it, but be careful that you don't remove too much paint, especially in the case of a metallic colour with its clear top-coat. A better bet might be to take the car to a specialist in what's called paint correction, who might be able to reverse the damage already done.

Once that's done, keep the paint protected with a good layer of automotive wax (which forms a physical barrier between the paint and whatever's trying to stain it) and try not to park under trees.

Firstly, check that it's the coolant overflow bottle you're referring to and not the windscreen washer bottle; it sounds basic, but they can look similar from above.

If there is a milky looking fluid and it is in the radiator overflow bottle, then you potentially have a head gasket problem on your hands. The first thing to do is take the car to a workshop which can confirm or rule out the gasket drama, and take it from there. Most workshops will probably conduct what's called a TK test which checks the radiator's coolant for traces of the chemicals that are created during the engine's combustion process. In a normal engine, these chemicals can't reach the coolant, but if the head gasket has failed, the combustion and cooling systems can intermingle. When this happens, a murky, milky coolant is often the result.

The recent cold, wet weather across much of Australia has meant that many car owners are suddenly finding milky deposits under their engines' oil filler caps, too. This is also a classic symptom of a blown head gasket, but it can also be simple a build up of condensation in the engine thanks to the prevailing weather conditions. This is especially true if the vehicle is used only for short trips. A decent run at highway speeds will often be enough to get the engine hot enough to evaporate these harmless deposits.

But don't assume that this is the case, as a car that really does have a failed head gasket can easily overheat in such conditions and that can lead to complete engine failure. Have the car checked by a professional and you'll know how to proceed.