Ask The Guide

Unfortunately, while there are aftermarket specialists who could potentially engineer a towing-mass upgrade, there’s no legal way to increase a vehicle’s towing limit. That’s because the towing limit is based on calculations made by the manufacturer (Ford in this case) and it’s set in stone, I’m afraid. Some states and territories would once consider such an upgrade on an individual basis, but all the authorities have backed away from this approach now. Fundamentally, if you want to tow a heavier load, you need a car that is rated to do so.

Ignoring the towing limit and hitching up a bigger load is also asking for trouble. The police are red hot on overloaded vehicles right now, and if the worst was to happen and you were in a crash where somebody was injured or worse, you might find yourself in a whole heap of legal and insurance hassle.

The other alternative, of course, is to find a lighter trailer or caravan or whatever it is you wish to tow.

It sounds like you’re on the right track with the transmission, Melissa. Transmission oil goes black when it starts to pick up bits of burnt clutch and band material shed by the gearbox’s internal parts. If that’s happening, there’s also a good chance that the transmission is worn and that’s causing the lack of acceleration and slipping you’re experiencing.

This sort of problem can be caused by low transmission fluid levels, a worn out pump or just plain old wear and tear. A check of the torque converter’s health would also be a good idea, but on the surface, it sounds like the transmission is ready to be rebuilt. Have the vehicle scanned and see what faults – if any – are thrown up by the computer. It could be something simple, but the black transmission fluid tends to tell a different story. It should be a nice, clear red colour.

The X-Trail of that era has an unbraked towing limit of 750kg and a braked limit of 2000kg. On that basis, the short answer is yes, you need to have brakes on your caravan.

But the detail is a little more involved. While you do need a braked trailer (caravan in your case) for the Nissan to handle 960kg safely, those brakes don't necessarily need to be the electric variety. A simpler mechanical braking system would also be acceptable and should work fine on a relatively light van such as the one you've described.

Mechanical brakes are preferred by some users who like the fact that the trailer in question can be used on any car with the required towing limit. In the case of electric brakes, a control unit has to be fitted to the tow-vehicle. That gets a bit complicated and is an extra cost. Larger caravan (over 2000kg GTM) need electric brakes, but mechanical brakes are fine for smaller, lighter vans.

The Murano is typical of modern Nissans by being a pretty reliable thing by all accounts. The V6 engine, in particular, has a good reputation for trouble-free performance and is widely regarded as a tough unit capable of plenty of kilometres before needing major work.

However, in reality, the Murano has an on-demand all-wheel-drive system, meaning that for the majority of the time, it operates as a front-wheel-drive vehicle. The rear axle only engages when the vehicle detects wheel-slip or the engine is producing enough torque for the rear wheels to join in. That may or may not suit your needs, and it will all depend on what you expect from all-wheel-drive.

The major concerns for some buyers would revolve around the fairly complex driveline used in the Murano. That on-demand all-wheel-drive system used a coupling that engaged the rear axle when the conditions required it. That rear coupling can give problems, beginning with a clunking noise under load. The other concern is more of a general wariness of constantly variable transmissions (CVT) which have been known to have shorter lifespans than conventional gearboxes. That said, the Nissan's isn't a know hot spot for trouble, but it definitely needs to be inspected before money changes hands.

Perhaps the most important thing – as it is with any second-hand car – is the service record. If you can't find solid evidence of the correct preventative maintenance being carried out, the car could easily be a can of worms, regardless of make or model.

Most oil manufacturers familiar with this make and model recommend either a full or semi-synthetic oil with a viscosity of 5W30 or 10W30. So that's what we'd recommend, too. You could probably go to a 20W40 without doing any damage, but why change if there's no need to?

Unless the engine is really worn out and starting to burn oil, there's not much point going to a thicker (heavier) oil. And the reality with this engine (and many like it) is that 250,000km is not actually super-high mileage these days. Back in the 1950s and 60s when an engine was often worn out at the 100,000km mark, things were different, but modern metallurgy and production tolerances (not to mention taller gearing) mean that an engine with 250,000km on board can still feel and perform like a new one. So treat it like one.

Find a new tyre guy. There's clearly something wrong with your car and it needs to be fixed before it's driven any farther. Early Magnas had no provision for altering the rear wheel alignment, but by the time your car rolled off the line, Mitsubishi had changed the design of the rear axle to allow for some wheel alignment adjustment. This is a good place to start.

But really, if you can hear the tyres physically scrubbing while you drive, then you potentially have a bigger problem. And it could be related to a recall that Mitsubishi issued back in 2004. It appears that a bad batch of raw materials meant that the stamped lower control arm on the rear suspension of some Magnas was prone to early failure. The problem became apparent when the arm actually split (at either end) allowing the wheel alignment to become way out of whack. If that's happened to your car, it would explain the symptoms, but also means that it's dangerous to drive at all. At the very least it won't steer properly or predictably and that makes it a danger to other road users.

This is something that confounds a lot of car owners. For whatever reason, many cars seem determined to blow their headlight globes at fairly regular intervals. This can be caused by voltage spikes (via a faulty regulator) cheap globes, vibration or moisture in the headlight unit. It's also important when changing globes that you don't touch any part of the glass bulb with your fingers. This can leave dirt or oil on the glass which can then cause a hot spot and lead to early failure.

But sometimes there just seems to be no explanation for the early demise of headlight globes. A more permanent fix is to switch to an LED replacement globe which is expensive (at something like $200 for the globes) but seems to eradicate the problem. Make sure you buy an LED kit that complies with the law on such matters (brightness and colour range) and fit it correctly, but in most cases, it's a simple one-for-one replacement deal.

As an aside, I've seen plenty of headlight globes that have died young and it's always been the low-beam filament that has failed. I'm yet to see a high-beam filament blow first.

Factory options can add to the resale price of a vehicle, but not the full amount that they cost when the car was ordered new. Which means the AMG equipment and vision package will take the vehicle closer to the higher valuation. Some options are more highly valued than others, too, and the AMG package is one of them.

As for aftermarket (or dealership-fitted) options such as ceramic paint treatment, fabric protection and tinted windows, regardless of what the seller tells you, these add very little – if anything – to the resale value.

No, the tow-ball capacity is determined by the manufacturer and is not affected by what rear suspension you have in the vehicle. Theoretically, upgrading the rear springs would mean the car would sag less when you put a load on the tow-bar, but that doesn’t alter the tow-bar’s ability to cope with extra weight.

Towing is an area where there’s a lot of misinformation doing the rounds. Make sure you know the limits dictated by the car’s manufacturer, the trailer’s manufacturer and the law.

Most of the references I can find regarding the 20-14 Jeep Compass with the 2.0-litre petrol engine suggest that it requires premium unleaded fuel with an octane rating of at least 95 RON. Given that the engine has a fairly high compression ratio (one of the factors for requiring PULP) of 10.5:1, that’s not really a surprise even if the output of 115kW doesn’t suggest a highly tuned engine. I’d be inclined to take the Jeep dealer’s advice and use premium fuel. Engines tuned for PULP can suffer internal damage if they’re run on an inferior grade of fuel.

The other question is why there is a discrepancy between the handbook and the dealership. The advice to Compass owners in the US is to use low-octane fuel (as low as 87 RON) where possible. This is possibly because the engine uses a different state of tune on the US market. One guess, therefore, is that while the Australian version of the Jeep requires PULP, the handbook hasn’t been changed from the US version to reflect this.