Ask The Guide

Modern vehicles like the Colorado have lots of sensors to help prevent major engine melt-downs. One of those is the sensor that tells the car the engine oil level is too low for safe operation. If that sensor is sending bad information to the car's computer, the vehicle might be programmed to go into limp-home mode or even shut down altogether to preserve the engine.

But the oil problem the car is reporting could also be dangerously low oil pressure or oil that has become too hot. The farther and faster you travel, the hotter the oil becomes (up to a point) and the thinner it becomes, meaning it may not be thick enough to sustain safe oil pressure. This could also be caused by a dud sensor, but it could also be a real situation. And like the low oil level sensor, this can force the engine into shutting itself down as a self-preservation measure.

A bit of sweating around the various parts of an engine where one component joins another is definitely not uncommon and not really a problem provided it's not actually dropping oil on the ground (at which point it's a leak, not a sweat-mark). But really, an almost-new vehicle like yours shouldn't be doing this at all.

The rear-main seal on the crankshaft is a likely culprit and a common source of leaks from this area, but since it's a big job (gearbox removal) to do it, I can understand why a mechanic would declare it okay and not to worry. The problem with that is that the sweating is likely to become a leak sometime down the track, at which point you'll have to act.

The good news is that because you've flagged this problem with Isuzu while the vehicle is still under warranty, it's called a pre-existing condition and is covered by the factory warranty, even if that warranty has since expired. However, one would hope that Isuzu does the right thing in the meantime and changes the offending gasket or seal to fix the problem.

Be very wary, however, about Isuzu (or more likely the dealer) claiming the problem is being caused by the catch-can you have had fitted. A good quality catch-can, with a relief valve and correct installation should not cause a rear main seal to leak. As for changing the grade of oil you're using, I doubt that it would do much, but since the alternative is a slightly thicker oil, it might just make the difference you're chasing.

The Rhino was a variant of the Musso ute, but wasn't sold here. Basically a UK-market model, the Rhino has now been discontinued.

In any case, it used the 2.2-litre engine which forms the basis of the engine in the Musso sold in Australia, but with the addition of AdBlue to bring it into line with Euro 6 emissions standards. As such, the Rhino's engine produced 148kW and 441Nm, compared with the 133kW and 400Nm of our version of the Musso. As for who builds it; while some earlier SsangYong models used Mercedes driveline technology built under license, the current Musso uses a driveline that is all SsangYong's own work.

So why don't we get the AdBlue version of the turbo-diesel? It all comes down to packaging. Strangely, due to the placement of the AdBlue tank, the Musso is rendered incapable of carrying a spare tyre, other than in the load area. SsangYong Australia wisely figured out that wasn't going to work here in a ute, so this market has stuck with the non-AdBlue engine variant.

There doesn't seem to be a huge number of similar complaints to yours, Len, but that's pretty cold comfort. You could have a problem with the transmission itself or the electronics that control it. Either way, it could be that the transmission is stuck in high gear as a form of limp-home mode to avoid doing any further damage to itself.

The first step is to have the vehicle scanned for fault codes. Sometimes, a fault will be logged that seems to have nothing to do with the symptom, but can still cause the havoc you're experiencing. Try a transmission specialist first, as it's a fair bet they will have seen this exact problem once or twice before.

The towing limit on this model Navara varies enormously according to what engine and transmission is fitted. As a result, the Gross Combination Mass (GCM) also varies a lot between models. As such, the 2.4-litre petrol Navara has a GCM of 4230kg, the V6 petrol a GCM of 4850 and the turbo-diesel is much higher at 5920kg.

Don't forget, the GCM includes the vehicle, whatever it's towing and everything else on board, including fuel, accessories and even passengers.

If the problem is getting worse, then there's clearly something deteriorating with either the doors themselves or the rubber seals that keep the air and water out. You could start by visually inspecting the rubber seals. Is there any obvious damage (such as a seat-belt buckle been left hanging out when the door was slammed shut)? Are there any witness marks or visible fretting on the paintwork from any component. Even a stray leaf caught between the door and the rubber can cause a leak, so give the area a good clean and see if that helps.

The door hinges could also be at fault, but I'd be a bit surprised if a car as new as this one has worn hinges already. In the bad old days, this problem was usually fixed by grabbing the window frame part of the door and bending it in slightly to achieve a better seal. That probably won't help you, but keep in mind the car is still under warranty, so make it Haval's problem.

This is either a sensor problem (that tells the car the door has closed and the step needs to retract) or a problem with the actuator that physically reels the step in. Either way, it's an obvious warranty claim.

If the car can't be driven (to the dealership) with the step extended, you could try holding the locking button on the remote for 30 seconds which will sometimes reset the vehicle's body computer and the car will revert to normal operation. Apart from that, arrange for the dealership to pick the vehicle up.

Broadly speaking, diesel engines have longer life expectancies than their petrol equivalents. That's because the typical diesel has to be more strongly engineered to cope with its inherently higher compression ratio and heavier moving parts, which also means it runs slower with less stress.

However, the advent of turbocharging and higher diesel engine speeds have also seen some lighter duty diesel engines lose some of that under-stressed longevity, meaning that they're not living as long as some old-school, slow-revving, under-stressed diesels. Modern changes including DPF technology, exhaust gas recirculation (for emissions) and single-rail, high-pressure injection have also contributed to shorter working lifespans in some diesels.

In any case, the life you will get out of any engine is directly related to how well it's been serviced and maintained throughout that life. A petrol engine treated to proper servicing will easily outlast a diesel that has been neglected and abused. As for the Hyundai petrol engine in your van, the rule of thumb says you should be aiming for at least 200,000km before spending any meaningful money on repairs. Again, though, this is entirely dependent on regular maintenance.

Clearly something is wrong here because wheel bearings should have a much monger lifespan than 12 months. I'd start by checking that the wheel alignment (yes, rear wheels need to be aligned, too) is correct and not putting weird stresses and strains on suspension components which could include the bearings. While you're at it, check the condition of the suspension bushes, too, as these can also allow alignment to become a problem.

Do you tow heavy loads with the car? This can also place huge stress on things like bearings and cause them to wear faster. Also, who replaced the previous set 12 months ago? Can you be sure they didn't over-tighten the new bearings, causing them to wear faster? Were the new bearings a good quality or a cheap replacement? Has the supplier of the bearings received the same complaint from other customers, suggesting a bad batch of bearings could be the cause? I've personally seen a brand new wheel bearing collapse in under 20km because the surfaces had not been hardened properly during the manufacturing process.

Finally, given the wild weather this continent has been experiencing, have you driven through flood-waters at any stage. Unlike fresh water, flood-water is often full of tiny silt particles which get into the bearing and then act as griding paste, causing the bearing to fail super fast.

Not really. The hatchback door is designed with hinges and support struts that travel a set distance and then stop; they're not adjustable. If the problem is that shorter people can't reach the hatch to close it, a simple fix could be a strap attached to the hatchback that hangs down and is within easy reach. Just make sure the strap doesn't get caught in the closed hatchback causing a potential exhaust leak into the cabin.