Volkswagen Problems

The last decade of dual-cab four-wheel-drive utes have emerged as the tow-vehicles of choice, and you see them everywhere filling roles exactly like the one you have planned. Popular models include the Ford Ranger you’ve nominated, Toyota HiLux, Mazda BT-50, VW Amarok, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara and Isuzu D-Max. But there are also cheaper alternatives including makes like the South-Korean made Ssangyong and various Chinese brands like LDV and Great Wall.

Just make sure you know exactly how much you need to tow before making a decision as some of the cheaper models don’t have the same outright towing capacity and even if they do, some of them don’t have the engine performance to make towing as easy as it should be. For parts availability, the Toyota would be king in really remote areas, but any of the major brands are pretty well covered in Australia.

Meantime, don’t rule out ute-based wagons such as the Ford Everest, Isuzu MU-X, Mitsubishi Pajero Sport and Toyota Fortuna. These offer better ride comfort when unladen thanks to more sophisticated rear suspensions and most have as much or almost as much towing capacity as their ute brethren.

If you’ve tried conventional parts stores and online sellers and done no good, the next step is to try a Volkswagen specialist. These are dotted around the country with a handful in each capital city. These shops tend to stock rarer, harder to find bits and pieces and often have suppliers around the world whose aim it is to keep old cars like air-cooled VWs on the road. Even if the part you need is no longer available, a good specialist will possibly know what equivalent part number from another make and model will do the job.

If all that fails, there are also specialist cable makers who can produce one-off cables to order, provided you can supply either the correct specifications or, even better, the old, broken cable to use as a template for a new one.

It sounds like you’re chasing a problem that is a bit elusive. If your initial suspicions were that the centre bearing was worn, what makes you think the rear universal joint is now the problem? You could spend a lot of time and money replacing things that, ultimately, don’t fix the problem.

The best advice is to take the car to a transmission specialist who will be able to diagnose what’s really going on and replace or repair those things. Even if the universal joint is worn out, replacing it can be a bit tricky as you have to maintain the driveshaft’s original alignment to avoid introducing new imbalance dramas into the equation. It’s not, therefore, as straight-forward as it looks on paper.

But don’t rule out a damaged, bent or unbalanced driveshaft as this can also cause the sort of symptoms that a worn universal joint can contribute.

First suspicion would be that the fuel injectors need either reconditioning or replacing. Rough running, hard starting and excess black smoke are all classic symptoms of worn injectors. That said, the modern turbo-diesel is a pretty complex animal, and you could also have a problem with the emissions system (EGR valve) or maybe a build-up of soot and oil in the intake system (which could also affect any number of sensors around the engine).

Don’t forget the basics, either; something as simple as a dirty air-filter element can also cause problems just like the ones you’re having.

While some cars are known lemons and should be avoided at all costs, the vast majority of cars and utes are okay as second-hand buys provided they’ve been serviced and maintained properly. And that goes for all makes and models, not just the VW Amarok. The point being that a well-maintained Amarok might be fine with 200,000km on board, while a neglected one will be junk by the time it has covered half that distance.

That said, the current crop of modern turbo-diesel dual-cab utes are mostly tuned pretty highly which means that by 200,000km or so, many of them will be showing a bit of wear. This might be most apparent in the intake system, the turbocharger, emission systems, transmissions and many other hard-working parts. Again, it all depends on how they’ve been maintained and how they’ve been used. I’d be budgeting for at least some repairs on an Amarok with that many kilometres under its belt. At which point, of course, it all comes down to the purchase price.

The answer to this question depends entirely on one thing: Are you trading the vehicle in on a new car or selling it privately?

If it’s the former, then the trade-in value won’t be too much different regardless of whether it’s had its 100,000km service or not. Dealerships can service a car for a lot less money than they charge you to do it. But if you’re selling privately, the car will be a lot more attractive to a private buyer if the cost of this major service has already been taken care of.

It’s always worth contacting a carmaker’s customer service division in a case like this. I agree that 136,000km is far from a reasonable expected lifespan for a modern more vehicle of any sort. But exactly how Volkswagen Australia will view the matter will depend on the car’s service history and how it was used.

You might have some luck and perhaps financial assistance in getting the Amarok fixed, but VW could also point at the age of the vehicle and the fact that it’s way out of warranty. But, again, if you don’t ask, you’ll never know. Don’t bother pursuing this at a dealership level, either, go straight to head office.

The 2011 R-Line package for the Touareg included plenty of extra kit, so identifying one shouldn’t be a problem. Those extras started with a body kit with a deeper front spoiler, side skirts and a rear roof spoiler. The R-Line package also extended to 20-inch alloy wheels.

Inside, look for stainless-steel kick panels inside each door, a different steering wheel, lots of leather, aluminium gear-selector and pedals and a 12-way electrically adjustable driver’s seat.

It sounds like there’s not much left to change in terms of belts and pulleys on your vehicle. But did you change the relevant tensioners at the same time? Tensioners run on bearings which can start to seize up over time and kilometres, often contributing a squealing noise that is easily confused with belt-squeal. Also, simply changing the pulley on, say the alternator or the air-con compressor, will not cure the noise if it’s being caused by the alternator or compressor itself.

Other things to check include the correct belt tension and the alignment of the belt (is it running truly between the pulleys, or attempting to run slightly sideways?) Don’t rule out a coolant leak that is getting on to the rubber belt and causing it to squeal.

The VW 1.4 TSI engine uses a cam-chain rather than a rubber toothed belt which needs periodic replacement. As such, the cam-chain should last the life of the engine (and the rest of the car) but experience with this engine suggests that is not always the case and some early versions of this engine have required cam-chain replacement. The incidence of this seems a bit random, with no real pattern emerging with some cars going on to record normal mileages with no cam-chain problems.

The car you’re looking at, however, is a later version, so should be less prone to this. But even so, make sure the car has a perfect service record as poor maintenance can shorten the life of the cam-chain.