Toyota HiAce Problems

A HiAce of that period is generally worth between $1000 and $2000, but being rusty and unroadworthy yours is not worth that much. It could be worth a couple of hundred dollars, but I reckon you’ll struggle to give it away.

The key to getting a decent run out of the iLoad is to change the oil more frequently. Change it every 5000 km. But if you’re not sure about its reliability certainly walk away. The HiAce is probably the best bet for you, but you could consider a VW Transporter, Mercedes-Benz Vito or Renault Trafic.

No, it wouldn’t have side airbags, and wouldn’t test well. If you’re looking for a van there are much better ones, such as a later HiAce or Hyundai iLoad, available.

If it’s starting ok at other times then it won’t the fuel pump. It’s more likely to be a sensor that’s at fault, the computer isn’t getting the message that it’s cold and it’s not giving any cold enrichment, which the engine needs to start and run while the engine warms up. Have your mechanic check the temperature sensor.

It’s unlikely to be in your engine as such; rather it’s probably associated with the engine’s intake system. As it’s new take it to your Toyota dealer and have them fix it under warranty.

I’ll take a stab in the dark here and suggest that your van is a turbo-diesel (there was a petrol version offered as well, but the diesel was much more popular). If that’s the case, you could be dealing with a turbocharger that’s showing wear. Specifically, this is likely to be in the turbo’s bearing which will become noisy (and potentially emit a whistling noise) as the bearing starts to degrade. Turbochargers often spin at speeds of up to 250,000rpm, so the bearing really has its work cut out.

The clue to all this is that the vehicle starts whistling when you press the throttle; that is, when you place a load on the engine and ask the turbocharger to start providing boost. That’s when the worn bearing becomes loaded (and noisy). But you could also be looking at something much simpler such as an exhaust that has collapsed internally and is offering a whistling soundtrack, or even a loose piece of intake plumbing that is also allowing the air passing over it to whistle. Perhaps there’s something in the gearbox that is making a high-pitched noise as well. You really need to have the vehicle looked at by somebody who knows their HiAces and take it from there.
 

Could be a problem with the glow plugs. If the glow plug light doesn’t light up when you turn the ignition on it could be a problem with the glow plugs or the control unit.

There’s no real difference in reliability or maintenance, but the SBV is more comfortable and feels a little safer with a little more sheetmetal ahead of you. I would prefer to be driving the SBV. It’s value would be $6000-$8000.

If it’s starting ok at other times then it won’t the fuel pump. It’s more likely to be a sensor that’s at fault, the computer isn’t getting the message that it’s cold and it’s not giving any cold enrichment, which the engine needs to start and run while the engine warms up. Have your mechanic check the temperature sensor.