Car Servicing

For months, all went well after I converted my Commodore to run on LPG using an injection system, but after a period of time it began to run roughly. My installer diagnosed blocked injectors due to contaminated LPG as the cause of the problem and recommended replacing them. After the work was done, at a cost of $1200, the problem appeared to be fixed, but it surfaced again after a little time had passed, and again the problem was diagnosed as blocked injectors due to contaminated gas, even though I had switched to a different LPG outlet as recommended. Again the blocked injectors were replaced and the car ran well for a short time before the rough running returned. The LPG installer again diagnosed blocked injectors due to contaminated LPG. I have now blown any of the savings I hoped to make by converting to LPG in the first place. What can I do?

I own a 2010 Falcon G6 that has done 9800 km. So far it runs very smoothly and has given no trouble except for the rotten egg smell from exhaust. I believe it's due to the catalytic converter in a new car and it gets better with aging, but I need to get it fixed.

My EF Ford Fairmont struggles to idle while it's cold. After it's been running for a couple of minutes it idles ok. Any suggestions?

On start-up in the morning my Mazda BT-50 GT has a pinging noise from the engine until it comes up to temperature. Is this normal for a diesel? Is there potential to cause any engine damage driving while cold? Would I be better off to let the car warm up before driving?

My Nissan X-Trail was doing the same as Trevor Bowley was recently complaining about in Carsguide. It's possibly one of two sensors that control the cam timing from what I understand from the great mechanics I take mine to at Croydon Prestige Service. Don't let Nissan anywhere near it would be my advice.

My 2007 Peugeot 307 diesel has done 120,000 km and is in perfect condition, with heaps of power and enviable economy. The manual recommends replacement of the cam belt at 180,000 km or nine years, whichever comes first, but I am a little concerned that both these periods far exceed those for other vehicles by different manufacturers. I have no wish to incur major engine damage, so I would appreciate your thoughts on whether the km travelled or the time period should be shortened.

My 2010 Holden Commodore Omega wagon has been using a lot of oil since it was new. My dealer did an oil consumption test and said it fell within the guidelines. Just last week the check oil warning light came on; when I did I found the dip stick was indicating it was virtually empty, so I topped it up. I find it abnormal that it would use so much.

My 2008 VW Jetta turbo-diesel has only done 32,249 km, but is due for its four-year service at a cost of $1600. When I queried the cost I was told the toothed belt and guide roller has to be replaced and the brake fluid has to be changed; things that are normally done at 120,000 km. I cannot afford the $1600 right now, but I don't want to take it to another dealer. I'm very fussy about my services and love my car, but the dealer won't budge. Is it really necessary to change the belt and renew the brake fluid at 32,000 km?

We have just had the turbo-diesel engine in our 80-series Toyota Landcruiser's fully reconditioned from the radiator to the clutch at the cost of $14,500. When we got it back we found the speedo wasn't working, nor was the air-conditioner, and the rear main seal was leaking. Everything was supposed to be repaired when we took it back for its first service, but wasn't. The mechanic advised us he could give us the name of a repairer for the air-conditioner, but when we asked about the speedo he said he would get back to us. He hasn't. Both the speedo and air-conditioner were working before the motor was overhauled. What do we do now?

The motor in the 2004 Nissan Pulsar my partner's brother bought new has blown. The mechanic has told me that a rod has put a hole in the crankcase. They have offered us a reconditioned motor for $7000 with a one-year warranty a second hand replacement for $2950 with a three-month warranty, both fully installed. Should we accept one of the offers, or should we take it further with Nissan?