Car Servicing

My 2012 Ford Ranger turbo-diesel auto is very noisy. It's only done 11,990 km, but when the engine is cold, or on a hot day, it is excessively noisy. The noise sounds like the engine doesn't have oil in it. It is noisiest between 1500-2000 rpm. Have you heard of this problem from anybody else?

The brakes on my 2011 Lexus IS350 F Sport squeal very badly under light application, e.g. when lightly braking when coasting to a stop. I find it embarrassing, so I brought it up with my dealer, and they machined the discs. The noise came back. This time they said that I would need to replace rotors as part of wear and tear at my cost, I'm looking at $800-plus. This was also suggested initially when the problem first arose, but I got away with machining the discs. Apparently there is a section of the disc/rotor nearest the centre and outer edge that is higher than the rest of the surface and the brakes make the noise when contact is made. Should this not be a warranty issue? I expect it at 60 or 80,000 km, but to start from 20,000 km seems faulty from the manufacturer in my eyes.

When I took my 2008 Subaru Forester to my local mechanic for a service it was running fine, but one week later the car jettisoned all its oil. The mechanic told me a cam seal had failed due to high oil pressure caused by a faulty oil pump. It cost me $1100 all up with a new timing belt due to the oil spraying everything. I then noticed that it was using more fuel than usual, and a day later the engine started running really roughly. This time he tells me it's got a broken camshaft! I know I'm being screwed over, but I don't know how to proceed. I am convinced it all goes back to that initial service. It could end up costing me thousands! Thousands I haven't got.

As I am sure you are aware the Volkswagen Golf 118 TSI Comfortline Mark VI is a lemon. Mine has had two clutch pack replacements, one Mechatronix Unit replaced, and the engine is now about to be replaced having blown up. It is just 26 months old and has 36,600 km. All these problems are known issues with this car. My dealer told me that they had four vehicles come in on February 5 for engine replacements or repair. They have at any one time 10 or more 118 TSI engines being rebuilt or repaired, my car is one of 15! If one dealer has so many vehicles at any one time being repaired I suspect that thousands of vehicles around the world are blowing up. I believe a major flaw exists with this engine. I have approached the dealership and asked for one of three things to satisfy my concerns: 1. A replacement vehicle (same age and kilometres) like for like with a different engine and gearbox. 2. A fair trade in allowance, or 3. An extension of the warranty to 10 years. All have fallen on deaf ears. I have approached The Department Of Commerce with a written complaint only to be told that whilst the vehicle is under warranty and the dealership completes the warranty work they cannot do anything. As I still have 10 months left of warranty I am ok for now, however what happens after that? I was advised that it would be wise to sell the car before warranty expires, which I have tried to do without success. I cannot get any word from Volkswagen about if they have any solutions to rectify this vehicle and allow me to retain the vehicle for at least 10 years as I normally do with any vehicle I purchase, let alone an acknowledgement that they have a problem with this engine. My question is simply what you would do if you had purchased one of these vehicles and had experienced the issues first hand?

In October 2012 I put my 2010 Ford LV Focus LW into my dealer with issues with the ABS/Traction control activation at low speed. I was told there were no Issues with the ABS/Traction control, but three weeks later I took it back because of the same issues. The service foreman said they had had a report of some other cars with the same issue, but it's very hard to get the cars to do it. I took him for a drive my car over the road where I have the issues and he was surprised at how easy it was for the ABS/Traction control to activate at speeds between 40-80 km/hr. They then tried resetting sensors, also a different set of tyres and driving another similar car over the same road with the same result. It was agreed that there were issues with the car, but Ford Australia advised after all the testing that it was a "characteristic of the Focus". Ford said I was welcome to take it to another Ford dealer if I wanted to. I then received a letter from Ford advising me that "after investigating my concerns with our dealer, we are satisfied that your vehicle is operating to the manufacturer's specifications and is similar to other vehicles in the model line." I travel 20 km to Lismore and can have the ABS/Traction control activate as much as 10-15 times at speeds between 40-80 km/hr. I don't see this as a characteristic of my car; can you give me any advice as to what do next?

Recently, when travelling in an 80 km/h zone in my 2007 Jeep Compass the pivot bolt dropped out of the front right-hand side suspension turning the wheel sideways and destroying the tyre and parts of the suspension. I have taken it to our insurance agent who noticed that the bolt would have hardly been holding it in. My Jeep dealer said if I had had it serviced with them I wouldn't have had this problem. They told me to take it to them and they would look at it for a charge if it were my fault. I would also have to pay for the tow truck. Chrysler said they would get the nearest dealer to come out to me and have a look at the car. The nearest dealer wouldn't come out to site and repeated the previous comments. At the end of the day should this have occurred?

I've had an ongoing electrical/computer fault in my 2008 VW Polo since 2010 when it was still under warranty. It's been taken back to the dealer five times - three by tow truck - for failing to start. Every time they hook it up to the computer they identify faults, but then it seems to reset and they tell me they can't fault it. They are now charging big money just to look at it when I'm sure it relates back to a warranty repair. Any suggestions, other than sell it?

We have a 2009 Holden Astra Cd wagon, which has done 22,833 easy kilometres. The other evening I noticed that the fan would not work in the car for the air-conditioner. As the next day was to be 37 degrees C I took it to our mechanic who last serviced it. My husband said it was probably just a blown fuse, but this was not the case and we actually needed a new heater fan motor at a total cost to us of $730. I could not believe it given the mileage that the car has done. I am planning to contact Holden with a view to being compensated for this expense, which I think should be covered by the warranty, together with the fact that it is virtually a new car and one should expect a reasonable life from the components. I would greatly appreciate it if you could give me your opinion as to what you think my chances of a fair hearing will be, and where I should direct my letter to get the best outcome.

From the day I bought it new my 2008 Renault Megane sedan has given a cough whenever you suddenly want some power, like when you're starting off from a difficult intersection in traffic. It happens about three times a week, but I can't convince the dealer that it exists. They did 40 km in it one day, but you could do 1000 km steadily with no trouble. I have been increasing the revs a bit to say 1200 rpm when waiting in a likely problem area, with my foot on the brake, then I can get power without the "lurch" which upsets the passengers. I wonder about the fuel pump, but they checked the pressure in the fuel line and couldn't fault it. I have given up asking about it at the dealer's, but it drives me nuts and if my wife drives it, she drives me nuts about it! What should I do?

I've had an ongoing electrical/computer fault in my 2008 VW Polo since 2010 when it was still under warranty. It has had to be taken back to the dealer five times because it failed to start and every time they have hooked it up to the computer they have identify faults, but then it seems to reset and they tell me they can't fault it. They are now charging big money just to look at it when I'm sure it relates back to a warranty repair. Any suggestions, other than sell it?