Mitsubishi Problems

While the basic mechanical package of the Express was reasonably well-sorted, any reliability issues for any commercial vehicle 13 years on will almost certainly be down to how the van has been used and how it's been maintained.

Check the service history. If there is none, be very wary. Also, try to find out what industry the vehicle has worked in until now. Some tasks are far more likely to shorten a vehicle's lifespan than others.

Also, have a close look at what the vehicle is trying to tell you. Is the driver's seat damaged on the bolsters where a driver has made thousands of deliveries? If so, you might be looking at a vehicle that has spent all its life in urban running. Does the vehicle have a tow-bar fitted, suggesting it might have lugged heavy loads around. Don't ignore the vital sings, either; is the oil clean? Are there any mechanical noises? It's amazing what close observation can reveal.

The 2.5-litre turbo-diesel engine fitted to the 2010 Triton uses a toothed rubber timing-belt which requires periodic replacement. Most mechanics reckon the belt should be changed every 100,000km and because of the design of the engine, the belt that drives the engine’s balance shafts should also be replaced at the same time.

This issue will always come down to the documented service history that each car comes with. A switched-on previous owner will not only have serviced the vehicle by the book, but will also have kept the relevant receipts as proof of this crucial work being done. We'd always choose the vehicle with a big wad of service receipts over a similar car with no (or less) evidence of scheduled maintenance.

Beyond that, the Nissan clearly has almost 50,000 fewer kilometres on its odometer, so all things being equal it probably nudges ahead at that point. In either case, the CVT transmission fitted to these cars is likely to be the major source of mechanical grief down the track. Both brands' CVT transmissions have been known to give trouble. If that bothers you, then perhaps the one to buy is the Outlander AWD with the turbo-diesel engine option. In that guise, the vehicle has a conventional automatic transmission rather than a CVT.

Find a new tyre guy. There's clearly something wrong with your car and it needs to be fixed before it's driven any farther. Early Magnas had no provision for altering the rear wheel alignment, but by the time your car rolled off the line, Mitsubishi had changed the design of the rear axle to allow for some wheel alignment adjustment. This is a good place to start.

But really, if you can hear the tyres physically scrubbing while you drive, then you potentially have a bigger problem. And it could be related to a recall that Mitsubishi issued back in 2004. It appears that a bad batch of raw materials meant that the stamped lower control arm on the rear suspension of some Magnas was prone to early failure. The problem became apparent when the arm actually split (at either end) allowing the wheel alignment to become way out of whack. If that's happened to your car, it would explain the symptoms, but also means that it's dangerous to drive at all. At the very least it won't steer properly or predictably and that makes it a danger to other road users.

The eyebrow height is measured from the centre of the wheel, vertically to the edge of the wheel arch. The vehicle needs to be on flat ground and unladen for this measurement to be taken. In the case of a 2014 Challenger, the standard front eyebrow height is 542mm and the rear eyebrow height is 552mm.

The manual transmission in this car side-stepped one of the bigger faults with the Pajero. In automatic form, the transmission cooler which ran inside the radiator could split, allowing the coolant and transmission fluid to mix. If this happened, the transmission was often ruined. No such problem with the manual, however.

But really, the scope for problems in a car this old that also happens to be an off-roader is huge. Age and kilometres are never kind to vehicles, and a Pajero of this age has probably covered plenty of ground. Also, if it has been used as its maker intended (that is, off-road) then you need to check things like wheel bearings, differential fluids and suspension parts for damage and wear. Are the chassis rails showing signs of having clobbered hundreds of rocks in the past? Do all the body panels line-up or are there signs of the metal having been bent and twisted in the bush?

Even if the car has never been off-road (and you can confirm this) there's still all the old-car checks to make. Have the engine compression tested to make sure there's not excessive internal wear and listen carefully for any clunks, bangs or grinding noises. Then go through the car from top to bottom making sure every switch, handle and lever does what it is supposed to.

These can be really good second-hand buys, but the wrong Pajero, like the wrong example of any car, can break your heart and empty your wallet. If in doubt, have a Pajero specialist or your state motoring club independently check the car for you and get a written report.

DPF technology is fast becoming the bane of turbo-diesel owners. The filter is designed to trap some of the nasty exhaust emissions of a diesel engine and then automatically burn them off at high temperature periodically, emptying the filter in the process. But way too often, this isn’t happening according to the script and filters are either clogging up, requiring a manual clean-out or, in extreme cases, complete replacement.

This is possibly what’s happened to your car and explains why both the DPF and check-engine light have illuminated. It’s the car’s way of telling you you need to act. While it’s generally true that vehicles like yours that do more highway kilometres than city running have fewer DPF problems, all turbo-diesel fitted with such a filter have the potential to give trouble. An electronic scan of the Triton should show whether the DPF and check-engine light are related.

Perhaps part of the reason for the car's high fuel consumption is your statement that it goes like the clappers. Drive it like that and fuel consumption can spiral. That's especially so of this model which, with its all-wheel-drive, had quite a bit more driveline friction than the front-wheel-drive Magnas.

However, 20 litres per 100km on the highway suggests there's something else contributing, so an electronic scan of the car should throw up problems like a blocked catalytic converter, stretched timing chains, or a lock-up torque converter that isn't locking up. Don't forget the basics such as tyre pressures, binding brakes and even the condition of the fuel system including the pump, filter and injectors. One or more fuel injectors which are worn and prone to dribbling when they should be shut off can easily cause fuel consumption to spike.

This model Challenger did have a history of engine overheating, largely due to poor surface preparation between the cylinder head and crankcase, allowing coolant to be consumed by the engine. Mitsubishi made production changes that resulted in a smoother head-gasket mating surface, but that's no help to owners of the earlier version.

In any case, that probably shouldn't affect the transmission and if it's dropping into neutral of its own accord then something – possibly electronic – is going wrong., It's unlikely to be a limp-home response as being in neutral doesn't allow you to limp anywhere, let alone home. But it could be a legitimate response to a transmission heat situation. Have you checked the level of transmission fluid?

A scan of the vehicle might throw up a clue, but it could also easily be something as simple as a transmission selector that is poorly adjusted and allowing the gearbox to select neutral on rough on uneven ground. Another possibility is that the transmission is, indeed, getting hot as a result of the engine temperature creeping up. The transmission cooler is part of the engine's cooling system, so the two are definitely linked.