Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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There’s no reason why it couldn’t be fitted, measure the chassis widths first and then work out what you need to do to adapt the old tray to the new vehicle.
It's impossible to say you won't strike trouble, but it would seem unlikely given your experience with the car. Servicing is the key to long life with a car and if you have done that consistently over the life of the car to date you can have confidence it will continue to give you good service.
I think you’ve got very good grounds to argue that it should be fixed under the warranty. The problem was first reported when the car was under warranty and the dealer clearly did not fix the problem, and you are perfectly entitled to have the problem fixed. Also remember that Mazda is required by law to provide you with a car that is fit for purpose, and in this case, your car is not. Don’t be fobbed off by the company’s suggestion that you are not covered.
As Mazda pointed out to you the fuel consumption figures they publish are the results of laboratory tests mandated by the government. Every carmaker has to do the test and publish the results on a sticker on the windscreen of the car. As such it shouldn't be taken as fact that you will get the same figures when you drive the car in real life. The figures are given as a guide and for you to use when comparing one vehicle with another. There are many things that affect fuel economy, so you need to check everything that might cause your consumption to be higher and make sure you are doing everything you can in your driving environment to minimize your fuel consumption. Having done all of that it does seem that your vehicle is using too much fuel, as you say. I would engage your dealer and ask that he set up a fuel consumption test that measures the actual amount of fuel you are using so that both you and the dealer are in agreement about the fuel being used. You will then have a common basis on which to discuss what action you and the dealer could take going forward.
Neither problem would seem to be normal and I would be demanding the dealer do something about it. The black smoke would suggest it is running too rich in that first start-up phase, the rough running and stalling would suggest it is too lean once warmed up. I would certainly have it checked by the dealer.
Most mechanics would skim the rotors when changing pads, and at 52,000 km I would expect that's all you would need to do. On heavier cars I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the rotors were worn, but on a light car like that I would expect longer life. While I can only speculate on your case, I can say that some dealers simply prefer to replace parts rather than repair, or in your case, machine them. They can make more money out of supplying and fitting the new parts than be doing what an old time mechanic might do.
If the coil were faulty I would expect it to play up all the time, not just first thing in the morning. Get the transmission checked, particularly the fluid level.
It sounds like the bush at the end of the selector cable has broken rather than anything in the transmission itself. If it has broken it normally doesn’t cause a problem when you move from neutral to park or back again, but when you go to select drive it doesn’t pick it up until you move the lever past the ‘D’ position.
Road noise from the rear is a problem many Mazda3 owners have complained about right from the launch of the car and there’s not a lot you can do. Fitting different tyres is the first thing that most people do, and like you have found, they make little if any difference. I would suggest you could try applying some noise deadening material to the panels inside the car, particularly in the rear, which seems to be the main noise generation area.