Mazda Problems

Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.

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Used Mazda BT-50 review: 2006-2009
By Graham Smith · 21 Jan 2011
Mazda shunned the notion that a ute had to look like a car to appeal to recreational users who were buying one-tonne utes like the BT-50 in increasing numbers for their weekend getaways.The company believed a ute should still look tough and purposeful, and held true to that belief when designing the replacement for the old B-Series.Beneath the tough exterior, however, Mazda worked hard to ensure the BT-50 had a measure of the 'Zoom-Zoom' that proved so successful in reviving the image of its passenger cars.MODEL WATCHThe BT-50 was an all-new model with barely anything carried over from the outgoing B Series.  The model range consisted of 4x2 and 4x4 models, with three body styles - single cab-chassis, Freestyle extended cab and dual-cab utility - and three levels of equipment, the base model DX, the DX+ and the range-topping SDX.It had a strong, purposeful look that gave it a solid, substantial image, the result of raising the belt line 30 mm and the sides of the cargo bed by 60 mm.  The cabin was generally a pleasant place to be, the only criticism was that it lacked elbowroom compared to most of its rivals, all of which had grown larger with the changeover to the new generations models, of which the BT-50 was one.Mazda offered two diesel engines depending on the model. The entry-  level two-wheel drive single cab-chassis had a 2.5-litre common rail double overhead camshaft four-cylinder turbo diesel engine that produced 105 kW at 3500 revs and 330 Nm at 1800 revs.All other models were powered by a 3.0-litre common rail double overhead camshaft four-cylinder intercooled turbo diesel.  When on song the 3.0-litre developed 115 kW at 3200 revs and 380 Nm at 1800 revs, up by 33 kW and 109 Nm from the engine in the outgoing model.Most models had a new five-speed manual gearbox, but there was also the option of a five-speed auto in the range topping SDX Dual Cab.  The BT-50 was built in both two-wheel drive and four-wheel drive forms, the latter utilising a dual range transfer case and limited-slip rear diff.On manual models the transfer case shift was manual, and they had remote free-wheel hub lock mechanisms, while those with auto transmissions had an electric shift allowing "on the fly" shifting between two and four-wheel drive.  Underneath, the BT-50 sat on a beefed-up ladder frame chassis.Larger front and rear shocks, and longer rear leaf springs improved the ride without affecting the BT-50's capacity for work.  Mazda chose to stick with nut-and-ball steering instead of following the trend to rack-and-pinion; the result was a rather large 12-metre turning circle.Brakes were a mix of disc front and drum rear, but with improved pedal feel and braking efficiency. ABS antilock brakes and Electronic Brake Force Distribution were available on all but the entry 4x2 single cab-chassis model.The BT-50 would carry a payload of up 1430 kg, 59 kg more than the old B Series, and would tow up to 2500 kg (braked), up from the 1800 kg of the B Series.IN THE SHOP The BT-50 causes few concerns for owners, the only complaints that have come to Cars Guide relate to the fuel consumption and clutch life.Generally used to tow caravans or heavy trailers, and often using four-wheel drive, both are issues that all one-tonners can suffer from. The fuel consumption tends to be higher than new, first time owners expect.  Many first time owners also ask a lot of their one-tonners by expecting them to tow heavy loads.If planning to use a BT-50 as a tow vehicle hauling a caravan or the like consult a towing specialist for advice on set-up, particularly if the vehicle is equipped with auto transmission.  Also consider having the auto serviced before leaving on a long trip with a load on the back.Make the usual checks for regular servicing; oil changes are critical for a long engine life.  Look for evidence of a hard life, towing, off-road or on a worksite.IN A CRASHDual front airbags and seat belt pretensioners were standard across the range.  ANCAP gave the BT-50 three stars when it was tested.UNDER THE PUMPMazda claimed the 2.5-litre models would sip fuel at the rate of 8.3 L/100 km, they also claimed the 3.0-litre models would average 9.2-10.4 L/100 km.  When tested by Cars Guide the 3.0-litre manual dual-cab ute returned an impressive 8.8 L/100 km average in a mix of city and country driving.OWNERS SAYSome owners have complained about the fuel consumption of the BT-50, but Mike Bradshaw told Cars Guide that he got an average of 10.0 L/  100 km from his 2009 model on a four-month long trip through the WA and the Northern Territory. Mike said that it was loaded to 2.6-  tonne, using four-wheel drive, and with the air-conditioning on.Frank Murray has done 21,000 km in his 2008 3.0-litre BT-50 and they have been trouble free, but he is concerned about the clutch life of the BT-50 after hearing stories of others having clutch issues. One owner, he said, was on his third clutch in 50,000 km, and another had to replace one at 40,000 km.LOOK FORTough truck looksImproved refinementSkinny cabinDiesel economyTowing performanceTHE BOTTOM LINEPerforms well, is comfortable, quiet and economical, but a little narrow in the cab. 82/100
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Used first cars review: 2006
By Bill McKinnon · 05 Feb 2011
On a tight budget, you had four options: unsafe cars, unreliable cars, really boring cars or cars that combined all three characteristics.  In the past decade, though, it's become easier to find a tidy, safe, cheap used car, for several reasons.Firstly, used cars don't hold their value like they once did. New cars have become cheaper in real terms, and sales have boomed, so there's a lot more used cars on the market.Cars are also much safer than they used to be. Government legislation and independent crash test programmes like NCAP, (which publicises the results of its tests, much to the annoyance of the industry) have forced car makers to improve safety. A 2005 car, no matter what make it is, will be safer than a 1995 car. At the minimum, you want two front airbags and anti-lock (ABS) brakes.Unless it's French or Italian, in which case a weekly dummy spit is part of the "ownership experience," most cars from the last 10 years will be pretty reliable, as long as servicing has been done by the book.We are talking about ordinary, everyday cars here, that haven't been thrashed. If you're looking at some dude's slammed, chipped Subaru WRX and the price seems too good to be true, chances are it will self-destruct before you make it home. You pay your money and you take your chances.Immaculate, low kilometre cars owned by little old ladies do exist, and they are gold. So is a complete service record, especially if it's from the dealer who sold the car new.  Let's see if we can find a few to recommend. Bottom dollar in our search is $5000.There's not much joy at this money, but the last of the Mitsubishi Magnas, from 2004-2005, are great value and reasonably plentiful. Many will be ex-renters. That's not necessarily a bad thing, because serving will have been done to schedule. The 3.5-litre V6-four speed auto ES has four airbags and ABS.Another Mitsubishi, the Lancer, is the best small car we can find at this price. Toyota Corollas are fine too, though they're more expensive.  The Lancer's as sexy as a can of baked beans and completely bulletproof. Pay about $7000-$8000 or so for a 2005 model. Find one with optional ABS and six airbags.If you've got around $10,000 to spend, you have much more choice.  In 2004, Mazda made six airbags and ABS available across its entire range, as options or standard, so any Mazda2 or Mazda3 from 2004 on will be worth checking out. Mazda does blue chip quality, and if you find a good one, with a service book, buy it. You'll pick up a 2 for less than $10,000; a 3 will be $10,000-$12,000.If you need something bigger, this sort of money will also get you into a 2004-2005 Subaru Liberty, another top car from Japan's A league. All wheel drive, excellent handling and Subaru's class leading NCAP scores are pluses. The 2.0-litre four won't rip your arms off, but it will do the job. Wagons cost a little more.You might prefer a small SUV wagon instead, so look for a 2004-2005 Subaru Forester, or Toyota RAV4, at $12,000-$15,000.  If you need a big car for a big country, the Aussie six is hard to go past.You'll pay $10,000-$13,000 for the first of the VE Commodores from 2006. The 3.6-litre V6 sounds like 1000 leaf blowers on maximum thrust, however it's durable enough. Holden got serious about safety with VE, so you get stability control as standard.  It might take a while to find the right car, but in the end, it pays to be fussy. Second hand doesn't have to mean second best.WHERE TO BUY?DealerPros: On cars under 10 years old, most states require a warranty, typically 3 months or 5000 kilometres. You also get guaranteed title. Franchised dealers (ie those who also sell new cars) usually have the best selection of used cars; the trade-ins they don't want are unloaded to non franchised dealers or auctions.Cons: Can be more expensive than a similar car bought privately. Beware of non-franchised dealers selling flood damaged or rebirthed (ie cars written off by insurance companies but then repaired) from Queensland.PrivatePros: The best way to find a bargain.Cons: You have to do plenty of legwork, and finding the right car, in a place that's close to where you live, can be a time consuming process. There's no guarantee of title or provenance, and no comebacks if it drops its guts on the way home. Buyer beware.AuctionsPros: Ex-government or fleet cars, usually properly serviced, with low kilometres. Guaranteed title. Many dealers buy cars at auction, take them to their car yard, and jack the price up by thousands of dollars. Buy it yourself, and pocket the difference.Cons: You can't test drive the car before you bid. It's also easy for an amateur to pay too much, so go to a couple before you buy to get an idea of prices and how it all works.
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Trusty Mazda 2
Answered by AMANDA BLAIR · 10 Feb 2011

It's impossible to say you won't strike trouble, but it would seem unlikely given your experience with the car. Servicing is the key to long life with a car and if you have done that consistently over the life of the car to date you can have confidence it will continue to give you good service.

Chain or belt in 2003 Mazda Bravo
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 30 Dec 2010

It has a belt to drive the camshaft, and belts typically are changed every 100,000 km or so, but because they deteriorate with time there is usually a time recommendation for the service as well. That's in the order of four to five years, and as your Bravo is seven years old it would wise to change it.

 

Ask Smithy Xtra ABS in Mazda 626
Answered by Graham Smith · 18 Jan 2011

Although the normal braking isn’t affected the ABS system is almost certainly disabled so you won’t have the antilock effect in an emergency. It could be as simple as a blown fuse, or it could be something deeper. Get it checked.

Mazda CX-7 2010: Blowing black smoke
Answered by Graham Smith · 03 Mar 2011

Neither problem would seem to be normal and I would be demanding the dealer do something about it. The black smoke would suggest it is running too rich in that first start-up phase, the rough running and stalling would suggest it is too lean once warmed up. I would certainly have it checked by the dealer.

Mazda 323 brake pad/rotor issues
Answered by Graham Smith · 17 Feb 2011

Most mechanics would skim the rotors when changing pads, and at 52,000 km I would expect that's all you would need to do. On heavier cars I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the rotors were worn, but on a light car like that I would expect longer life. While I can only speculate on your case, I can say that some dealers simply prefer to replace parts rather than repair, or in your case, machine them. They can make more money out of supplying and fitting the new parts than be doing what an old time mechanic might do.

Mazda BT-50 2011: Fuel economy
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 06 Jan 2011

Comparing the fuel consumption of one vehicle to another can be tricky, even though they might seem identical. It can come down to the driving style, the terrain covered, tyre pressures, roof racks and bullbars fitted, size of trailer/caravan being towed etc. What appears obvious is not always so.

Tyres for Mazda 3 Neo
Answered by Graham Smith · 15 Feb 2011

Road noise from the rear is a problem many Mazda3 owners have complained about right from the launch of the car and there’s not a lot you can do. Fitting different tyres is the first thing that most people do, and like you have found, they make little if any difference. I would suggest you could try applying some noise deadening material to the panels inside the car, particularly in the rear, which seems to be the main noise generation area.

Mazda Bravo engine clogged
Answered by CarsGuide team · 03 Feb 2011

From what you have told us it would seem that it’s not the engine itself, the top-end has been rebuilt without solving the problem, and rebuilding the bottom-end is unlikely to fix it either. I would be looking at the places where oil and coolant could interchange, such as the intercooler, turbo etc.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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