Mazda Problems

Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.

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Used first cars review: 2006
By Bill McKinnon · 05 Feb 2011
On a tight budget, you had four options: unsafe cars, unreliable cars, really boring cars or cars that combined all three characteristics.  In the past decade, though, it's become easier to find a tidy, safe, cheap used car, for several reasons.Firstly, used cars don't hold their value like they once did. New cars have become cheaper in real terms, and sales have boomed, so there's a lot more used cars on the market.Cars are also much safer than they used to be. Government legislation and independent crash test programmes like NCAP, (which publicises the results of its tests, much to the annoyance of the industry) have forced car makers to improve safety. A 2005 car, no matter what make it is, will be safer than a 1995 car. At the minimum, you want two front airbags and anti-lock (ABS) brakes.Unless it's French or Italian, in which case a weekly dummy spit is part of the "ownership experience," most cars from the last 10 years will be pretty reliable, as long as servicing has been done by the book.We are talking about ordinary, everyday cars here, that haven't been thrashed. If you're looking at some dude's slammed, chipped Subaru WRX and the price seems too good to be true, chances are it will self-destruct before you make it home. You pay your money and you take your chances.Immaculate, low kilometre cars owned by little old ladies do exist, and they are gold. So is a complete service record, especially if it's from the dealer who sold the car new.  Let's see if we can find a few to recommend. Bottom dollar in our search is $5000.There's not much joy at this money, but the last of the Mitsubishi Magnas, from 2004-2005, are great value and reasonably plentiful. Many will be ex-renters. That's not necessarily a bad thing, because serving will have been done to schedule. The 3.5-litre V6-four speed auto ES has four airbags and ABS.Another Mitsubishi, the Lancer, is the best small car we can find at this price. Toyota Corollas are fine too, though they're more expensive.  The Lancer's as sexy as a can of baked beans and completely bulletproof. Pay about $7000-$8000 or so for a 2005 model. Find one with optional ABS and six airbags.If you've got around $10,000 to spend, you have much more choice.  In 2004, Mazda made six airbags and ABS available across its entire range, as options or standard, so any Mazda2 or Mazda3 from 2004 on will be worth checking out. Mazda does blue chip quality, and if you find a good one, with a service book, buy it. You'll pick up a 2 for less than $10,000; a 3 will be $10,000-$12,000.If you need something bigger, this sort of money will also get you into a 2004-2005 Subaru Liberty, another top car from Japan's A league. All wheel drive, excellent handling and Subaru's class leading NCAP scores are pluses. The 2.0-litre four won't rip your arms off, but it will do the job. Wagons cost a little more.You might prefer a small SUV wagon instead, so look for a 2004-2005 Subaru Forester, or Toyota RAV4, at $12,000-$15,000.  If you need a big car for a big country, the Aussie six is hard to go past.You'll pay $10,000-$13,000 for the first of the VE Commodores from 2006. The 3.6-litre V6 sounds like 1000 leaf blowers on maximum thrust, however it's durable enough. Holden got serious about safety with VE, so you get stability control as standard.  It might take a while to find the right car, but in the end, it pays to be fussy. Second hand doesn't have to mean second best.WHERE TO BUY?DealerPros: On cars under 10 years old, most states require a warranty, typically 3 months or 5000 kilometres. You also get guaranteed title. Franchised dealers (ie those who also sell new cars) usually have the best selection of used cars; the trade-ins they don't want are unloaded to non franchised dealers or auctions.Cons: Can be more expensive than a similar car bought privately. Beware of non-franchised dealers selling flood damaged or rebirthed (ie cars written off by insurance companies but then repaired) from Queensland.PrivatePros: The best way to find a bargain.Cons: You have to do plenty of legwork, and finding the right car, in a place that's close to where you live, can be a time consuming process. There's no guarantee of title or provenance, and no comebacks if it drops its guts on the way home. Buyer beware.AuctionsPros: Ex-government or fleet cars, usually properly serviced, with low kilometres. Guaranteed title. Many dealers buy cars at auction, take them to their car yard, and jack the price up by thousands of dollars. Buy it yourself, and pocket the difference.Cons: You can't test drive the car before you bid. It's also easy for an amateur to pay too much, so go to a couple before you buy to get an idea of prices and how it all works.
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Mazda BT-50: Can I replace the tray with a 1997 HiLux tray?
Answered by Graham Smith · 08 Mar 2011

There’s no reason why it couldn’t be fitted, measure the chassis widths first and then work out what you need to do to adapt the old tray to the new vehicle.

Trusty Mazda 2
Answered by AMANDA BLAIR · 10 Feb 2011

It's impossible to say you won't strike trouble, but it would seem unlikely given your experience with the car. Servicing is the key to long life with a car and if you have done that consistently over the life of the car to date you can have confidence it will continue to give you good service.

Mazda 3 2007: Radio failure
Answered by Graham Smith · 22 Mar 2011

I think you’ve got very good grounds to argue that it should be fixed under the warranty. The problem was first reported when the car was under warranty and the dealer clearly did not fix the problem, and you are perfectly entitled to have the problem fixed. Also remember that Mazda is required by law to provide you with a car that is fit for purpose, and in this case, your car is not. Don’t be fobbed off by the company’s suggestion that you are not covered.

Mazda BT-50 2009: High fuel consumption
Answered by Graham Smith · 07 Apr 2011

As Mazda pointed out to you the fuel consumption figures they publish are the results of laboratory tests mandated by the government. Every carmaker has to do the test and publish the results on a sticker on the windscreen of the car. As such it shouldn't be taken as fact that you will get the same figures when you drive the car in real life. The figures are given as a guide and for you to use when comparing one vehicle with another. There are many things that affect fuel economy, so you need to check everything that might cause your consumption to be higher and make sure you are doing everything you can in your driving environment to minimize your fuel consumption. Having done all of that it does seem that your vehicle is using too much fuel, as you say. I would engage your dealer and ask that he set up a fuel consumption test that measures the actual amount of fuel you are using so that both you and the dealer are in agreement about the fuel being used. You will then have a common basis on which to discuss what action you and the dealer could take going forward.

Mazda CX-7 2010: Blowing black smoke
Answered by Graham Smith · 03 Mar 2011

Neither problem would seem to be normal and I would be demanding the dealer do something about it. The black smoke would suggest it is running too rich in that first start-up phase, the rough running and stalling would suggest it is too lean once warmed up. I would certainly have it checked by the dealer.

Mazda 323 brake pad/rotor issues
Answered by Graham Smith · 17 Feb 2011

Most mechanics would skim the rotors when changing pads, and at 52,000 km I would expect that's all you would need to do. On heavier cars I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the rotors were worn, but on a light car like that I would expect longer life. While I can only speculate on your case, I can say that some dealers simply prefer to replace parts rather than repair, or in your case, machine them. They can make more money out of supplying and fitting the new parts than be doing what an old time mechanic might do.

Ask Smithy Xtra Mazda 323 revs and stalls
Answered by Graham Smith · 05 Apr 2011

If the coil were faulty I would expect it to play up all the time, not just first thing in the morning. Get the transmission checked, particularly the fluid level.

Ask Smithy Xtra mazda 323 transmission
Answered by Graham Smith · 08 Mar 2011

It sounds like the bush at the end of the selector cable has broken rather than anything in the transmission itself. If it has broken it normally doesn’t cause a problem when you move from neutral to park or back again, but when you go to select drive it doesn’t pick it up until you move the lever past the ‘D’ position.

Tyres for Mazda 3 Neo
Answered by Graham Smith · 15 Feb 2011

Road noise from the rear is a problem many Mazda3 owners have complained about right from the launch of the car and there’s not a lot you can do. Fitting different tyres is the first thing that most people do, and like you have found, they make little if any difference. I would suggest you could try applying some noise deadening material to the panels inside the car, particularly in the rear, which seems to be the main noise generation area.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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