Are you having problems with your Mazda? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Mazda issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Mazda in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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It's impossible to say you won't strike trouble, but it would seem unlikely given your experience with the car. Servicing is the key to long life with a car and if you have done that consistently over the life of the car to date you can have confidence it will continue to give you good service.
It has a belt to drive the camshaft, and belts typically are changed every 100,000 km or so, but because they deteriorate with time there is usually a time recommendation for the service as well. That's in the order of four to five years, and as your Bravo is seven years old it would wise to change it.
Although the normal braking isn’t affected the ABS system is almost certainly disabled so you won’t have the antilock effect in an emergency. It could be as simple as a blown fuse, or it could be something deeper. Get it checked.
Neither problem would seem to be normal and I would be demanding the dealer do something about it. The black smoke would suggest it is running too rich in that first start-up phase, the rough running and stalling would suggest it is too lean once warmed up. I would certainly have it checked by the dealer.
Most mechanics would skim the rotors when changing pads, and at 52,000 km I would expect that's all you would need to do. On heavier cars I wouldn't be surprised to hear that the rotors were worn, but on a light car like that I would expect longer life. While I can only speculate on your case, I can say that some dealers simply prefer to replace parts rather than repair, or in your case, machine them. They can make more money out of supplying and fitting the new parts than be doing what an old time mechanic might do.
Comparing the fuel consumption of one vehicle to another can be tricky, even though they might seem identical. It can come down to the driving style, the terrain covered, tyre pressures, roof racks and bullbars fitted, size of trailer/caravan being towed etc. What appears obvious is not always so.
Road noise from the rear is a problem many Mazda3 owners have complained about right from the launch of the car and there’s not a lot you can do. Fitting different tyres is the first thing that most people do, and like you have found, they make little if any difference. I would suggest you could try applying some noise deadening material to the panels inside the car, particularly in the rear, which seems to be the main noise generation area.
From what you have told us it would seem that it’s not the engine itself, the top-end has been rebuilt without solving the problem, and rebuilding the bottom-end is unlikely to fix it either. I would be looking at the places where oil and coolant could interchange, such as the intercooler, turbo etc.