Are you having problems with your Hyundai? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Hyundai issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Hyundai in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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IF IT'S a manual it might be a case of getting the right balance of engine revs and clutch slip. If it's auto it might just be a case of applying the right amount of revs to keep the engine firing. As for the doors, lower the window slightly and the doors will close more easily. The Getz has a small cabin and closing the door compresses the air inside. Lowering the window allows the air to escape as you close the door.
GENERALLY the Sportwagon was a good car with plenty of features for the price. Hyundai mechanics report the engine starts to use oil once it clocks up 100,000km. Look for a well-cared-for car and get it checked by a mechanic. Also consider a Mazda 626 wagon or a Toyota Camry. It's hard to beat the Camry.
TRACING wind noise can be tricky because it can come from several sources. The door seal is an obvious one, but that could be eliminated by applying a strip of tape over the gap between the door and the body after the door has been closed. If the noise goes away, the seal could be the problem. If not, check around the rear-view mirrors. These are often a source of complaint. As cars become better built and more refined, some noises are eliminated, which means others that you didn't notice before become more obvious.
THE Sonata uses regular unleaded, but some Hyundai mechanics suggest running PULP occasionally to aid clean running. For the flat spot, check that the spark plugs were changed at 90,000km as recommended. The Hyundai uses platinum-tipped plugs and, because the inlet manifold has to be removed to change plugs in the three rear cylinders, mechanics have been known to leave them. They should have been replaced at 90,000km. Also check the plug leads.
EXCELS do have dodgy manual gearboxes, as you've been told. Reverse is hard to select, but there is a way around the problem: select a forward gear first, then select reverse as you would normally, and you'll find it goes in OK. Second-gear synchro is the other problem area with the Excel gearbox. The problem wasn't really fixed until the Accent was released.
THERE is no reason to dump the Excel before it gets to the 100,000km mark. They are a reliable car and I have seen some with more than 200,000km up and running sweetly. Maybe people are getting out before the warranty runs out, but I see no reason to justify doing that.
THERE shouldn't be any problem leaving your car for that time. Ask a friend or neighbour you trust to start your car once a week and let it warm up, allowing the oil to run through the engine. It's a good idea to have the battery hooked to a trickle charger to keep it up to charge (letting it run down shortens its life), but that may be difficult to do in a carport. Likewise, I recommend leaving it under a cover, to protect it from the elements, but doing that can be a signal to burglars you aren't home.
THE Australian Design Rule calls for a speedo to be accurate to plus or minus 10 per cent, so at 100km/h your speedo could be showing anything from 90km/h to 110km/h. If it is showing 112km/h when you're actually doing 100km/h, it doesn't comply with the standard. The problem I have with your dyno test is that you don't know the accuracy of the dyno. It is also a machine with tolerances and you need to know what they are to determine the results' accuracy. Remember the speedo is built with tolerances so is unlikely ever to be 100 per cent accurate. Many other factors affect the accuracy of the speedo reading: the rolling diameter of your tyres, wear on tyres, inflation pressure and so on. The RACV regularly checks speedos for accuracy and results show speedos of modern cars are much more accurate than those on older cars. Most speedos checked fall on the conservative side -- that is, the indicated speed is higher than the actual speed.
FIRST go out and check the accuracy of the odometer. Markers on posts used to line many highways are quite accurately placed by the road authorities. Head out on a nearby highway and locate one of these markers and stop safely alongside it, noting your odometer reading. Reset your trip meter to zero, then drive off to the next marker and stop again, noting the reading on your odometer and trip meter. Preferably do this over a distance of 5-10km, and repeat it a number of times to improve the accuracy. That will give you an indication of the accuracy of your odometer.