Hyundai Problems

I can’t possibly predict what might or might not happen to the belt in the near or even medium term, so I would have the belt changed.

I presume there are no warning lights showing on the dash to indicate a problem; nevertheless you need a mechanic to run a diagnostic check on it. It could be something related to the intercooler, but it could be a number of other things as well, and the only way to establish what is causing the problem is to check it.

It does sound like a problem with a solenoid. Most dealers would send cars with auto transmission problems out to a transmission specialist rather than fix them in-house, so find out from the dealer where they send their problem cars and consult that specialist. You could also consult an auto transmission specialist to get an independent opinion.

We contacted Hyundai on Mark Pearson’s behalf and we received the following from a company spokesman:

“Fuel consumption figures displayed in accordance with ADR 81/02 are based on a static laboratory combined city and highway cycle test. They are not tested on the road. As a result, actual fuel consumption will vary. This is due to a combination of driving conditions, driving style as well as the condition of the vehicle. (e.g. air-conditioning, fuel type/quality used, weight, tyre pressures, wind, average speed, etc.).

These figures are therefore most useful to compare the relative performance of different vehicles – they all undergo the same test. The average motorist will experience consumption of approx 15-35 percent higher than what is stated on the fuel label due to the conditions that the laboratory test cannot simulate. Mr. Pearson’s vehicle is just over one month old, optimal fuel consumption figures are not likely to be achieved until the vehicle has travelled 10-15,000 km.”

If you apply the maximum variation Hyundai quotes you would get fuel consumption of a little over 6 L/100 km, which is about what he gets.

I'd say the battery could be tired and lacking the grunt to crank the engine and power it when the engine is hot. Once it's cooled for a period it doesn't require the same power to crank the engine, so there's grunt left to run the engine as well crank it.

It doesn't sound like a wheel balance issue, but it would be worth having the wheels checked to make sure they are round and haven't been knocked out of alignment. You could spin the tyres on the rims to get the best match of wheel to tyre, and swap tyres from side to side, all to make sure the problem isn't a wheel balance one. Look for a drive shaft problem; it could be wear or damage.

The trade-in value for the 2004 Getz is $2700 to $6000 depending on the model, so the value you have been quoted is well down on what you could expect. Ask the dealer to show you the hail damage, in other words have him justify his valuation, or better still shop around at other dealers.

On a small car like that I would expect the pads to last 40,000-50,000 km, so I wouldn’t expect the pads to be worn out yet. It could be that the disc rotors themselves need to be replaced. If the pedal is going too far down and feels like it’s not stopping the car very well I would get the brakes bled.

It's under warranty, so take it back to the dealer and have them deal with it. It could be that a cut and polish would sort it out. If you'd like an independent assessment check your local motor trades association and have them refer you to a paint specialist.

The tyres fitted were indeed an option on the Elantra, they’re a little fatter with a lower profile than the standard tyres. You could fit either, so I would shop around and see which is the cheaper.