Holden Problems

I'm not sure how an electric piece of equipment continues to function when its fuse or relay has ben removed, so maybe you need to check that you're pulling the correct fuse. The car's owner's manual should contain a list of fuses, their location and what circuit they relate to.

In any case, problems like this one are often the fault of the car's body computer which can fail, allowing all sorts of random errors to crop up in anything from the climate-control stuff to the central locking. If that's the case, a new body computer may be required, but these can be obtained second-hand to keep costs down.

But before you do any of that, try these simple tricks: Using the key fob, press the door lock button and hold it down for at least a minute. Sometimes, this is enough to reboot the computer and restore normal settings. The second thing to try is to park the car and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait at least an hour (overnight is better) and then reconnect the battery and see if the car's computer has reset itself. It doesn't always work, but it's free and definitely worth a shot. Just make sure you have access to the radio's security code to restart it after disconnecting the battery.

It sounds as though you either have a problem with the car's electrics or the electronics within the ignition remote. If the car's battery is dead flat, you'll get the symptoms you're reporting, but if the remote has a flat battery (or is faulty in some other way) then you an find yourself in the same boat.

But it could also be an electrical problem other than a flat battery. From memory, some of these Holdens had suspect battery terminals which lacked the grip they should have had and could lead to a loose connection which could produce these symptoms. This would be a good place to start.

But there's another trick you can try. On some Cruze models, there's a process that can over-ride the remote locking and ignition protocols. If the battery in the remote is weak or the remote itself is damaged, this is definitely worth a try. From the driver's seat, locate the small, round plastic bung in the cup-holder in the centre-console. Place the remote key over this hole with the Holden logo facing up. Then try the starter button. With luck, the engine will start and you're away to have the remote fob fixed or replaced. You may find you need to hold the stop/start button for two seconds to get the engine to stop.

Meantime, I have no idea why the actual physical key will not lock the doors from outside. That sounds more like a job for a locksmith.

Many engine designs have the coolant temperature sensor screw into the thermostat housing. In the case of this model Captiva, however, the sensor screws into the inlet manifold next to (but not part of) the thermostat housing.

A temperature sensor that is sending the wrong information to the car's computer can cause all sorts of mayhem, but it's worth checking the sensor for correct operation before spending money on a replacement.

It sounds counter-intuitive that an engine would run at all with the crank angle sensor removed. Generally, without this sensor working properly, the fuel-injection system has no idea when to inject the fuel or fire the spark plugs. But sometimes – as in this engine – if the computer can't 'find' a crank angle input, it will take a reference from the camshaft angle sensor and use that to time the injection and ignition.

Even so, if the problem persists after two replacement sensors, it's probably fair to say this particular sensor is either not the root of your problem, or that or the engine's wiring is frying the new sensors as fast as you're changing them.

Either way, a trip to an auto electrician seems like the next logical step. Chances are a switched on sparkie will have seen this exact problem before and will know how to deal with it or at least take the logical steps to diagnose what's going wrong. Simply continuing to change bits and pieces is often an expensive way to solve a problem like this.

I'm curious to know what happened when the hill-start assistance kicked in on the flat. Since this system holds the car on a hill so you can move off easily, it should deactivate as soon as you press the throttle to move. Which means, on a flat surface, you shouldn't be able to feel the system at all. Are you sure this is what's happening. Could the problem instead be a brake caliper that is sticking on, or a hand-brake that is dragging?

In any case, the hill-start system is controlled by sensors that detect that you're parked on a slope and then apply the brakes to stop you rolling back. If any of these sensors is kaput or not sending the correct signal back to the computer, the set-up won't work properly. Conceivably it could engage on the flat but, again, I don't know how you would know.

But the solution is a simple one; take the vehicle to a Holden dealer who will be able to figure out what's wrong and then fix the problem under warranty. Your car is covered by a five-year warranty, so make the most of it.

By the way, disconnecting safety gear is not the best way to go as it can (obviously) make the car less inherently safe and, in some, cases even render the vehicle technically unroadworthy.

The first thing to determine is whether the engine is actually getting hot. You need to find a mechanic who can tell the difference between a genuinely hot engine and one that is crying wolf. Most times, this will involve letting the engine idle until the warning light comes on and then checking the actual temperature of the coolant. This is usually done via a trusted thermometer (infra-red thermometers are great for this) checking the temperature of the coolant in the radiator's top tank.

If the engine really is hot, then you're looking for a mechanical problem. But if the temperature is within a normal range, then you need to start looking for a dud temperature sensor, faulty gauge/light or a problem with the car's wiring. This can be a lot harder to find than you might think, but driving around with a temperature warning flashing is no good either.

Mechanically this pair was very similar with identical engine options and power outputs. Both also had independent rear suspension by this time, also and the same safety package.

So what the Berlina offered over and above the base model Commodore was a bit more fruit and luxury. That started with climate-control air-conditioning (versus the standard set-up) a CD player, power windows and alloy wheels. And that was about it. Anybody looking for more luxury went for the Calais model which was more expensive, but better equipped again.

Here's a pointed question: Does your vehicle have an aftermarket trailer-brake system fitted? If it does, it's quite likely that the wiring passes through the cabin somewhere near where your leak is located. Unless this access hole is correctly sealed with the proper grommet, there's every chance water is getting in at this point.

Other likely suspects for this include roof mounted aerial holes, roof rack attachment points and even worn or damaged window and door rubbers.

Modern vehicles like the Colorado have lots of sensors to help prevent major engine melt-downs. One of those is the sensor that tells the car the engine oil level is too low for safe operation. If that sensor is sending bad information to the car's computer, the vehicle might be programmed to go into limp-home mode or even shut down altogether to preserve the engine.

But the oil problem the car is reporting could also be dangerously low oil pressure or oil that has become too hot. The farther and faster you travel, the hotter the oil becomes (up to a point) and the thinner it becomes, meaning it may not be thick enough to sustain safe oil pressure. This could also be caused by a dud sensor, but it could also be a real situation. And like the low oil level sensor, this can force the engine into shutting itself down as a self-preservation measure.

This shouldn't be too difficult, as the 2003 Astra was only available with a petrol engine. If your car was a diesel-powered car (available in the next generation of Astra) the situation could be much more complicated. As it is, however, you should really only need to add fresh fuel to the tank, switch on the ignition for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime the engine and then hit the starter. Don't crank the engine for long periods if it's a bit slow to start a this will drain the battery and potentially overheat the starter motor. Instead, try starting the engine in bursts of a few seconds at a time with a little time between to let things cool down.

Sometimes, however, the fuel pump won't appreciate being allowed to run dry and this can cause internal damage to the pump sufficient for it to need replacement. Generally, though, if you can hear the pump buzzing with the ignition on, the pump is working. In some extreme cases, the pump may not be able to prime the engine and the solution then is to spray a little starter fluid down the intake system to start the engine and hopefully allow the pump to catch up. But be warned, this is a dangerous process and should only be tried by somebody who knows what they're doing. It also involves undoing some of the trunking or piping to gain access to the engine's intake.

The other potential hazard with running a car dry of fuel is that you'll drag all the silt, rust and dirt that once sat harmlessly in the bottom of the tank through the engine and into the fuel system. So you would be well advised to change the fuel filters and check that no rubbish has entered the system.