Holden Colorado Problems

I'm with you, Allan; I much prefer a hardcopy book I can lay out in the engine bay with me while I'm working on a car, rather than an e-book that requires an electronic device to access it.

A quick online search revealed that while the official Holden manual is, indeed, most commonly available as an electronic document, there are plenty of hardcopy workshop manuals from other companies available to buy. Another possibility would be to try a Holden service centre to see if it still sells workshop manuals for its cars. Some public libraries also keep a selection of workshop manual to borrow.

The best place to find workshop manual is a swap meet where some vendors have literally hundreds of titles to choose from. A second-hand workshop manual is not only a great form of recycling, the pages with the most greasy fingerprints will give you a good hint on the major problem areas of the vehicle.

Modern common-rail diesel engines with their sophisticated, multi-pump fuel systems and high-pressure injectors can stop in their tracks for any number of reasons, not all of them electrical. You could start by checking the battery and the charge-rate from the alternator (if the engine will restart). But you also really need to be checking the fuel system and the obvious stuff such as a dud ignition barrel that’s shutting everything down. A simple fuse or relay that controls the fuel pump system could have failed, too, with similar results.

The absolute best advice is to have the vehicle electronically scanned at a workshop with this type of diagnostic gear. By having the vehicle tell you what’s wrong with it, you’ll save a whole lot of time and money replacing random bits and pieces, hoping that you’ve identified the culprit.

Your problem could well be torque converter-related, but it could also be something else inside the transmission. The fact that the transmission will not shift back out of sixth gear even going uphill, suggests that there’s – in theory least – a problem with the electronics or hydraulics that control the shifting patterns. That the transmission is also shuddering is either a symptom caused by the same problem, or a result of a second fault in the unit.

It always raises suspicions when a problem crops up just after a vehicle has been serviced, and sometimes that suspicion is well placed. Have you double-checked the level of fluid in the transmission since it was flushed and refilled? Incorrect fluid levels can cause the sorts of problems you’re seeing. So can the incorrect grade of type of fluid used. You should check both these things first and move on from there if they check out okay.

A minor increase in noise when shifting to four-wheel-drive is quite a normal thing to happen. By selecting four-wheel-drive, you’re suddenly engaging the transfer-case output shaft, the front differential and the front driveshafts. So, fundamentally, there’s a lot more mechanical stuff happening, and that’s probably what you’re hearing.

But the change in noise shouldn’t be a huge one, nor should it involve a high-volume noise of any kind. If there’s something screeching, grinding or knocking when the vehicle is in four-wheel-drive, then there’s probably something wrong with the driveline. If the noises are loud or nasty, then you need to have the vehicle inspected to find the cause and fix it before it causes more damage.

Even if the two cars were from the same production month and year, you’ve got some serious mis-matches there; enough to make the job far more time, effort and money than it’s worth. For a start, the two-wheel-drive Colorado won’t have the extra differential and drive-shafts to mate with the twin drive-shafts that the all-wheel-drive gearbox will have. So you’d have to somehow blank that front driveshaft off. Or, add the front differential and axle which will also probably require different front suspension. Prop-shaft lengths are likely to be different between a manual and an automatic version of the same car, too.

Then there’s all the other things that can suddenly catch you out. In many cases, the manual and automatic versions of a particular car will have different transmission tunnels and different holes in the floor for the shifter to poke through. Even the centre consoles can be non-interchangeable. The dashboard of an automatic car with its PRNDL display will also be different to the manual one. Then there’s the question of wiring looms which can also be vastly different to suit the specific requirements of each driveline layout (a modern automatic needs lots of electrical inputs). In fact, the on-board computer is very likely to be different between the two transmissions on that basis as well.

Following on from that, what about the sensors to control the all-wheel-drive system? Or even the rotary dial inside the car to select the different four-wheel-drive modes? A two-wheel-drive car just won’t have them nor even possibly the access points to add them. And what about the real basics? Things like the automatic car not having a clutch pedal. That requires a full pedal change inside the car. None of this stuff is simple, easy or cheap.

To be honest, the engines themselves are very possibly interchangeable, but even if that’s all you swapped (and not the transmission) you’d still need to change the flywheel and plenty of little details.

By far the best advice is to simply buy the version of the Colorado you want.

This model Colorado doesn't have a completely clean rap sheet in terms of its long-term reliability, so I'd definitely want to see a complete service history with no gaps or skipped maintenance. Beyond that, manual-transmission versions of this car didn't like towing and had a small gearbox component that could fail requiring a new gearbox.

But even an automatic version was known to have (in some examples) oil consumption problems (Holden's fix was to fit a different dip-stick to alter owners' perception of the consumption). Other problems included leaking coolant plugs, electrical wiring issues and even water leaks into the cabin.

All that said, the Holden was actually an Isuzu D-Max under the skin; a vehicle that has a better than average record for reliability among its peers.

Failures of brake-light switches is quite common in modern cars. This is the tiny switch that is located either on the brake pedal itself or somewhere near the brake master cylinder that senses when you’ve applied the brakes and switches the brake lights on to warn following vehicles that you’re slowing.

In the Colorado’s case, the switch is located on the brake pedal, so you’ll need to locate the old one and replace it with a new unit. Most mechanical workshops can do this quickly and cheaply, but if you want to tackle it yourself, the replacement switch can be bought at a parts store or online.

It all depends on what parts of the suspension the workshop is telling you is worn out. If the strut tops or suspension-arm bushes are worn out, or there’s a problem with the ball-joints or tie-rod ends being too worn, then there’s certainly the chance that there’s insufficient adjustment within the system to return your wheel alignment settings to their correct spec. Even a worn out wheel bearing can cause all sorts of wheel-alignment issues.

Just because you haven’t felt the problem, doesn’t mean it isn’t there. These issues develop gradually and we don’t always notice the small changes week to week until they become a bigger problem.

If, however, you genuinely think the tyre shop is trying to rip you off, you can have the car independently inspected to see if you’re being told the truth. Your state motoring club should be able to help here. Sadly, some of the bigger car-repair retailers have been caught loading up a customer’s repair quote in the past, and consumers need to be on the lookout for these bogus `faults’ that will be added to the bill. We’re definitely not tarring all big chain retailers with the same brush, but it’s something to be aware of.

Vibrations through a car at varying speeds or throttle position can be an indication of wheel imbalance, poor wheel alignment, worn suspension parts, a damaged tyre, bent wheel rim, a driveshaft or CV joint problem, engine misfire, gearbox of differential issue, over-tight brake, worn brake drum or rotor and perhaps a million other things.

If the problem is worse since the new engine was fitted, I’d be looking at things like engine mounts which can wear and even fail, leading to a vibration or wobble throughout the whole car.

But if the bull-bar is wobbling in sympathy, don’t rule out a loose bolt(s) in the bull-bar mounts which are allowing it to flop about and send a shiver through the rest of the car. Even a blob of mud stuck in the inside of a wheel rim can be enough to imbalance that wheel and produce the same effect when the particular harmonics of slowing down enter the equation.

You could start with the engine mounts and work your way backwards along the driveline, looking for worn couplings, U-bolts and universal joints. If you have a Go-Pro camera, maybe mounting that under the car and reviewing the footage afterward might give you a clue as to what’s causing the wobble. Having the wheels and tyres balanced would be another relatively inexpensive way of ruling out one possibility.

Most glow-plug systems in diesel cars work on a timer system. The manufacturer will have worked out that X seconds of current will heat the plugs to a temperature sufficient for easy starting, so that X-seconds period is where the timer will be set.

What happens, though, is that glow plugs can lose their efficiency over time (and with 233,000km on board, your car is a candidate for that to have happened). As that efficiency is lost, they don't produce the same amount of heat as they used to and, therefore, the timer isn't giving them long enough to heat the combustion chamber sufficiently. When that happens, the engine becomes hard to start. The other possibility is that the timer itself is faulty and isn't giving the plugs power for long enough. The fact that your engine starts easily after the first cold start of the day, suggests the glow-plugs are, indeed, at fault here.

The other possibility is that the car's electrical system is not sending enough voltage to the glow plugs to make them work properly. This can be verified quickly and easily with a voltmeter. This method can also verify the length of time the timer is supplying power to the plugs.

In vehicles where the timer has already shut off the power to the glow-plugs before enough heat has been generated, the solution is often a new set of glow-plugs. The good news is that these aren't expensive, nor are they difficult to change if you know what you're doing. The caveat is if you aren't sure of what you're doing, at which point the fuel system on a common-rial diesel injection system can be very dangerous to tamper with due to the super-high pressures involved.