Ford Ranger Problems

There's been plenty of talk in recent years about the future of diesel engines in vehicles like the Ranger and Everest. And while there's a school of thought that suggests that they'll switch to petrol and petrol-electric hybrid drivelines, that hardly makes a diesel-engined version a dinosaur overnight. Take the Toyota Corolla, for instance: While the latest Corolla is available with a hybrid powertrain (and it's a very popular format) there are still plenty of people happily driving around in their 20-year-old Corollas with conventional drivelines.

The point being that progress is a fact of life. Every time a new piece of tech arrives that is seen as an improvement, car-makers will adopt it. Which means the previous technology is out of date, but not necessarily beyond its useful life.

If you think a plug-in hybrid Ranger or Everest would suit you, then by all means wait until 2024 (the rumoured launch date). But bear in mind that, by then, there may be talk of the next big thing in Rangers and Everests; an advance that could make even the plug-in hybrid look a bit yesterday.

Provided you're comparing apples with apples (dual-cabs with dual-cabs, for instance) the exterior panels, glass and much of the chassis and platform should be interchangeable between these two variants of what is essentially the same car.

The differences are likely to be cosmetic, such as the Wildtrak version having a chrome tailgate handle rather than a black plastic one on the base model Ranger. But even things like headlights can throw up big differences. for example, the Wildtrak had LED running lights and HID headlights, which won't fit on the lower-spec version thanks to mounting and wiring differences. The Wildtrak was also available in its own palette of exterior colours, so matching panels colours might be difficult.

Then there's the question of what engine was fitted to either version you're trying to swap parts with. The different powerplants would have had different wiring looms (for different sensors in different positions) and perhaps even differences in where major components were mounted under the bonnet. Even the wheels of different Ranger variants had different sizes and offsets. So, a simple bonnet or mudguard substitution might be viable, but some parts sharing will definitely not be as simple as it sounds.

The recommended Ford Ranger engine oil depends on the engine fitted to your particular example. Since the popular PX Ranger (2011 to 2022) used four different engines over its time on sale, this is an important piece of the puzzle. So here’s how it pans out:

The Best Ford Ranger oil type for the 2.2-litre turbo-diesel engine is a 5W30 fully synthetic. The 3.2-litre turbo-diesel also uses the same grade and specification of oil. The sophisticated two-litre twin-turbo diesel requires 0W30 fully synthetic oil which is quite a light oil but is designed to lubricate those turbochargers immediately on start-up. Meantime, the 2.5-litre petrol engine (which is quite rare to find and only sold for a few years) requires either a 5W20 or a 0W20 (depending on which oil manufacturer you ask).

In the Ranger’s case, changing the oil at home is not difficult provided you’re not dealing with the five-cylinder 3.2-litre turbo-diesel. We’ll get to that one in a moment. In the case of the other engines, it becomes a case of warming the engine, removing the drain plug and letting the old oil out. While it’s draining, fit the replacement oil filter, replace the drain plug and refill the engine with the fresh oil. Once you’ve checked the level and it’s good, you’re on your way again.

The exception to all this is the 3.2-litre engine which has a sophisticated oil pump that allows it to save a bit of fuel, but also imposes a ten-minute limit on how long you can leave the sump-plug out and the engine empty of oil. Because of the way the pump is designed, an empty sump will cause the pump to not prime itself when you refill the oil and start the engine. And that can destroy the engine. So, the oil filter needs to be changed separately and the oil drained and refilled inside that ten-minute window. Simply google `how to change oil on a Ford Ranger’ and you might not be given this vital piece of info. Beyond that, the job is still a DIY one, but you have to be aware of that time limit.

Oil changes are part of any vehicle’s regular maintenance and the specifications of the oil required and the service interval (how often to change oil) are set by the vehicle’s manufacturer. If this job isn’t for you, pretty much any mechanic at any service centre of any size will be able to handle it quickly and efficiently as well as dispose of the old oil and filter for you.

The C-TEK brand has a huge reputation for performance and safety. I've personally had such a charger for more than 20 years which has been in use almost every single day of that time and still works perfectly. They're more expensive than some chargers, but the inbuilt protections against incorrect connection and overheating are worth the price, not to mention that longevity.

Some mechanics recommend connecting the two leads from the charger directly to the battery terminals, but conventional wisdom says that connecting the red cable to the positive terminal first and then the black cable to an earth somewhere in the engine bay is a better idea. This method means less chance of a spark igniting gasses emitted by the battery as it charges and discharges.

The indicator lights on the C-TEK unit will tell you when you've achieved a good connection. Using a metal part of the car for the negative attachment point works because the whole car is essentially one big negative terminal. Just make sure your attachment point isn't painted or coated with a chemical that prevents the flow of current. Or that it's not a plastic part (increasingly common these days). Many cars have a dedicated post or connection point within the engine bay.

It's definitely worth looking into as it's not normal behaviour for the Ranger and could point to a problem that, if not fixed now, could lead to a bigger drama down the track. A scan of the entire vehicle's electronics might show up a problem with the fuel system or throttle set-up. While it's tempting to look at the engine itself as the source of the revs flaring, don't rule out the transmission, either. A faulty torque converter or even a low transmission-fluid level could be the culprit here.

That model Ranger does, indeed, have what’s called a variable-voltage or `smart’ alternator. The idea is that when the car’s main battery is fully charged, the alternator reduces its workload to save fuel. But the reality is that the system doesn’t always recognise that accessories (like a second battery) have been fitted to the car. If that happens, the alternator doesn’t always make enough power to keep accessories like that second battery system fully charged. Which means that suddenly, your car-fridge won’t run overnight.

The good news is that this smart function is purely electronically controlled, and a Ford dealer can disable it for you, returning the alternator to conventional operation.

This sounds very much like a fuelling problem. Since a diesel engine has no ignition system (beyond its own compression) any fall off in performance can often be traced back to the fuel system.

The best bet is to take the vehicle to a diesel specialist that knows this make and model and will have either seen this exact set of symptoms before or will be able to make a logical diagnosis rather than just changing random parts that may or may not be the cause of the problem. Things that are likely causes, however, are the fuel filtering system, fuel pump and injectors. But don’t rule out something simple like a bad batch of fuel that is playing havoc with the entire system.

In very early-build examples of the Ranger (from 2011 and 2012) there was a problem with the gearbox output-shaft speed sensor that could cause the transmission to shift back to first gear with a distinct clunk. While it’s generally accepted that this was fixed as time passed, it sounds too much like the same problem to ignore a check of this sensor as part of any investigation.

And guess what? The sensor fault was found to be an intermittent one, just like your experience suggests. I’d have the sensor checked and work from there.

Ford’s popular PX Ranger (sold from 2011 to its replacement in 2022) marked a distinct move away from timing belt technology to drive the engine's inlet and exhaust cam. So, regardless of what engine your PX Ranger has fitted to it, the Ford Ranger timing belt or chain question is answered with a simple response: It’s a timing chain.

That means the timing chain should be good for the life of the vehicle and will not require replacement at regular intervals, unlike engines with a rubber drive belt belt, provided oil changes and other maintenance has been carried out properly. This gets around the rubber drive belt problems of periodical replacement and the associated cost.

This advice covers every PX Ranger engine, including the 3.2-litre five-cylinder diesel, the 2.2-litre four-cylinder diesel, the two-litre twin-turbo diesel and even the short-lived (2011 to 2015) 2.5-litre petrol engine.