Are you having problems with your Ford? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Being without a car for seven weeks is completely unacceptable, and their apparent reluctance to return calls makes it even worse. Talk to the ACCC and try to have them intervene on your behalf.
A number of owners seem to be having troubles that relate to the so-called Smart charging system. The system is designed to keep the battery charged to a sufficient level to keep the car going, but as you say there is little reserve and that can result in a flat battery. It’s also important when fitting accessories to the vehicle that connected in a way that allows the ECU to identify that there is greater draw on the system and the alternator needs to work harder. Ford can disable the system for you if that’s what you prefer, and lots of owners are doing that.
The best times to buy are usually the end of the financial year, or at model run-out times, that's when the specials are on. The CVT and dual-clutch autos are both still unknowns in terms of long-term reliability, but either should be ok over the five years you plan to keep the car. Any of the cars you list, and the list is a long one, would be ok. It really comes down to what you like.
Forget the old rules that applied when the car was new, now the ’88 model is just an old clunker and the Ghia pulls about the same money as the GL. When buying a car as old as this the most important thing is not the fruit and features it had when it was sold new it’s the mileage done and its condition that matter.
Are you trading simply because the nearest Ford dealership is two hours away? If that is the case, I would suggest you look at other service options locally, and think about having it serviced closer to home. It is five years old after all, so sticking with the dealer is not as important as it would be if the car were newer. If you are determined to trade I would suggest, in order, the Toyota, Nissan, Kia and Holden. All build cars of a similar quality and reliability to the Ford.
Petrol is really the best in your situations diesels are not at the their best in stop-start driving. I wouldn’t suggest a Great Wall; I feel they are still to earn their stripes in this country. Go for a 2.7-litre petrol Toyota HiLux.
Having ruled out an SUV your choices are fairly limited. If you were prepared to buy used you could buy a late model Falcon, but if you want to buy new you’re really limited to an SUV. Most SUVs have good performance, they’re certainly not sluggish, and they aren’t all bulky. Something like a Toyota RAV4, Mitsubishi Outlander, or a Subaru Forester should be able to comfortably handle your towing needs.
Your car has the dreaded Powershift disease. Call Ford’s customer service (13 3673) and request they repair the car at their cost. I would expect they would cover the cost of repairs, but they might offer to cover part of the cost of replacing the transmission.
Before he can repair it he has to find out what is wrong with it, and that’s what he’s charging you for. The hourly rate most dealers charge is around $150, and he seems to be charging you for one hour, which is probably his minimum charge. If you don’t want to stump up $150 take it someone who charges less.
Don’t buy a Focus, they are plagued with automatic transmission troubles, don’t buy a Holden Cruze either, as they also have problems with their automatic transmission. The Lancer is fine; you could also look at a Mazda 3 or Toyota Corolla.