Ford Problems

Consult another auto transmission specialist and get his opinion. If you weren't happy with the advice you were getting from your doctor, you would get a second opinion. That's what you should do in this case.

Could be. Try to isolate the problem by swapping components between cylinders and see if the problem follows the component. Swap injectors, spark plugs and leads, one component at a time. Check the compression. It sounds more than a blocked injector.

I HAVEN'T heard of major problems, though I have driven three cars -- two sedans and a BF cab-chassis -- with the e-gas engine and all have been slightly different in the way they drive. The first car, a BA sedan, was quite good with few flaws. The second, a BF sedan, wasn't good at all. It stalled, flamed out, idled roughly and generally wasn't pleasant to drive. The third, a BF II XR6 cab-chassis, fell between the two sedans. It didn't stall and didn't flame out, but it was lethargic on acceleration. The Ford LPG system is old technology, which is why it's so variable. Though Ford will be aghast at this suggestion, I'd buy a regular Falcon ute and have it fitted with a sequential gas-injection dual-fuel system. SGI is better technology.

IF IT'S a fresh engine, you would be wise to use a running-in oil for the first 500km, then switch to a 20W/50 mineral oil. Valvoline makes a running-in oil that you can buy at any retail shop. You could perhaps use a Penrite oil after that.

WE CONTACTED Ford on your behalf and it has responded with the following, which should fix your problem. Unfortunately Ford doesn't have the code for the key of your vehicle. However, its service technicians advise that if a locksmith removes the door lock (a relatively simple job), they can cut you a new key to the same specifications as the one you now have.

LIKE all carmakers, Holden advises against converting their cars to LPG unless the engine has been modified by the factory. But there are plenty of LPG specialists who will convert your car to dual-fuel. Impco has an excellent dual-fuel system for the 5.7-litre V8 using Sequential Gas Injection.

IT WOULD seem the tank tester is at fault, but you need to establish what the problem is before you can lay blame. It's normal for the LPG tank to be removed from the car to be tested, so I would suggest there has been some mistake made when the tank was reinstalled. If the tester isn't co-operative, take the car to an LPG specialist and have them find the cause of the problem. If it can be shown the tester caused it, send him the bill for the repairs.

IT depends on the compression ratio of your engine. When it was sold new there was a choice of standard and super petrol. Standard had an octane rating a little below the 91 of the current unleaded, super was 98. Most cars of the time were running super and I believe that would be best for your car, with an additive for protection of the valves and valve seats.

THE LPG wagon shouldn't be $4000 dearer than the regular wagon. It was only $1400 dearer when new and today's values put them at $800-$1000 dearer now as a used car. Keep shopping and try to find a dealer with a more reasonable outlook. Anyone asking a $4000 premium for LPG is trying to make a killing from fear about fuel prices. It certainly wouldn't be worth paying $4000 more for an LPG wagon, it will take too long to recoup the cost. But at a premium of $1000, it would be worthwhile.

I'M NOT aware of after-market smaller wheels and you have to ensure any spare has the correct rating for your car. Latex tyre repair kits sold at auto stores will suffice if you have a puncture.