Are you having problems with your BMW 3 Series? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest BMW 3 Series issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the BMW 3 Series in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Yes, it is important to change the coolant, particularly with a BMW with its alloy head. When you do it it’s vital you use the correct coolant as specified in the owner’s manual. Older BMWs, particularly the 3-Series, can be troublesome with high mileage. There are a number of plastic fittings used in the cooling system, including the radiator, and they are known trouble spots. The power steering can also give trouble, the suspension bushes often need replacing, and there are many others. Only buy one if it’s a low mileage car with a known history and a full service record, and only if you’ve got deep pockets.
It's very low mileage for the age of the car, is it genuine? If it is I would suggest a value of $8000-$10,000, depending on the condition.
The problem with the N47 diesel engine dates back to 2007. There are plenty of overseas reports of the timing chain failing, as yours has done. Deal directly with BMW head office and seek some support for the cost of repairs. It is a problem, and BMW should bear some responsibility for it. If you can’t get any help, go to the ACCC and make your complaint to them.
You would be able to move up to a 2011/2012 model for the money you have to spend, and for that you get a much safer car, with much lower kilometres, which should be much more reliable. Even though your 20-year-old car has been very reliable, there’s nothing to say that won’t all change tomorrow, and BMWs can be expensive to fix.
If you've checked the battery and that's ok, check the starter to make sure there's no problem with that, and then pressure check for a blown head gasket. It's not unknown for a head gasket to blow on the 318 and you can get an hydraulic lock in a cylinder that will make it difficult to start if that cylinder is the one that's on compression when you go to start it. It doesn't always show up on the temperature gauge as overheating, but it is sometimes evident with white smoke from the tailpipe when the engine is cold.
Our experience is that older BMWs suffer problems with things like the plastic fittings on the engine, the plastic radiator tanks etc. that can add up to a sizeable sum of money when you have to replace them. One car, an older 3-Series that had done around 250,000km developed a problem with the power steering that had mechanics completely stumped. After four visits to the workshop, having replaced the steering rack, the power steering pump and many other steering parts, it was finally found that the fault was in the steering column. That was replaced and the problem fixed, but it cost more than $2000, and that's using second hand parts. That said the engines and gearboxes, etc., are bulletproof. We don't have the same feedback on the C-Class, but remember all cars have problems; no car is completely free of trouble.
My best advice to you is to not buy an old used BMW; they will only soak up whatever money you might have saved up. An ageing BMW with high mileage is a money pit; it will cost plenty to service and keep on the road, whether you use a dealer, which I would not recommend, or an independent mechanic. Buy a well-respected Japanese brand, such as a Toyota Corolla, Mitsubishi Lancer, or Mazda 3.
Parts are readily available for the E90 3-Series and won’t be a problem in the foreseeable future. They will be relatively expensive if bought from a BMW dealer, but are more affordable if you buy from the aftermarket, and they can be imported from overseas at a very reasonable cost.
Yes, you can, as long as you can open the door using the key it should be ok. It's wise to tell the buyer about the situation so they know and there's not likely to be any comeback. I'd be tempted to fix it before you sell it; it's likely to be easier to sell without the locking problem.