Ask The Guide

The first question is have you tried changing the setting on the throttle controller? The U4 setting on this unit is slightly towards the lazy side of throttle response. Maybe a switch to U8 or U9 will give the throttle response the perkiness you are looking for.

A poor quality snorkel can definitely impede airflow and, therefore, power production, but so can a poor tune, dirty fuel filter, worn injectors, worn fuel pump, a blocked DPF, gummed up intake manifold and about a thousand other things. Is the turbocharger working properly and all the associated plumbing tight and leak-free? This can also cause a loss of power due to lost turbo-boost.

You really need to have a fiddle with the throttle controller to determine whether the problem as you see it is a lack of throttle response or, indeed, a lack of performance in an outright sense. For the record, 11.1 litres per 100km is not, depending on how and where you drive, unusual for this vehicle.

The reason the scan threw up a camshaft phasing problem is because the belt has stripped and allowed the camshaft timing to become way out of synch. This is also why the engine lost power and wouldn’t restart in the first place.

Simply replacing the timing belt won’t fix it, as the engine’s original camshaft timing has to be restored for the engine to ever fire again. There’s a specific method to do this, but pretty much any mechanic will be able to retime the camshaft and get you going again.

If the engine is retimed and still won’t fire, there’s a chance the stripped belt has allowed internal damage to the engine which may need a full rebuild. You could be looking at bent valves, cracked pistons and more.

You’re dead right that this is a serious problem. Not being able to accelerate briskly when pulling out in traffic (for instance) is a huge risk to you and other road users.

The problem could be a simple adjustment issue, an electronic glitch or a major mechanical issue, but whatever it is, it needs to be fixed before you try to drive anywhere else. But here’s the good news: This is definitely a warranty issue, so make sure it becomes Great Wall’s problem, and not yours.

There are a lot of things that can cause a rattle in the front end of a car on a rough road. Fundamentally, there’s something that’s loose and that’s causing the rattle as the suspension moves up and down on the uneven road. When you touch the brakes, everything compresses and tenses up either under the strain of slowing the car or because more weight has been thrown on to the front suspension. At that point, whatever is loose tightens up and the rattle goes away.

Start with the basics. That means bushes, ball-joints, springs, dampers, wheel bearings and the brakes. A mechanic will be able to do a quick inspection and locate what’s loose and what needs replacing. But don’t ignore it, as anything loose in the front end of a car is a serious safety issue. It could be something as simple as a loose brake backing plate, but even a worn bush or ball-joint is not difficult or expensive to replace.

Because the Elgrand was not officially imported into Australia by Nissan, parts can be a bit difficult to obtain. Mechanical bits are not such a problem as the Elgrand used mostly Nissan Maxima or Altima mechanical parts. But body panels and trim pieces can be more difficult to obtain.

That said, there are specialist parts recyclers that deal in these vehicles. A quick internet search might turn up what you’re after or at least give you a few clues on where to look next. The companies that import these vehicles for sale here also sometimes import spares parts as well, so they’d be worth a call, too. While not terribly thick on the ground here, the Elgrand is popular enough that there will be a part supply industry that has built up around it.

This sounds more like a control problem that one with the actual compressor. The body computer is often at fault in cases like this. Part of the body computer’s job is to control things like central locking, power windows and the climate control gear. The fact that the system is cycling between fresh air and recycled air makes us suspect the computer as the culprit. Has this been checked?

Hopefully, you first raised this issue with Nissan all those years ago when the vehicle was still under warranty. If so, then you have what is called a pre-existing condition and even though the car is now out of warranty, Nissan is still obliged to fix it as if the warranty still applied.

This is a really common problem with this model (and the Ford Ranger with which it shared its mechanicals). Many buyers avoid this model for this very reason. Even though many fixes have been tried it seems that this car, shown a hill and a hot day, will often overheat.

Several theories exist including that the EGR valve is the problem, as it fails and allows coolant to escape (usually into the engine cylinders). But even when the EGR valve is working properly, this engine is prone to running too hot. Some other theories hold that the thermal management of the engine itself was just underdone and there’s no real fix for it. That’s borne out by the number of people who have tried different radiators, thermostats and cooling fans and still have a vehicle that overheats.

But you could try reverse flushing the radiator and making sure than every part of the cooling system is working efficiently and properly. That will maximise your chances of not having the engine overheat but, in this case, there are no promises.

These alarms work via small switches that physically detect whether the door is open or shut and also whether the door is locked or unlocked. It's a school-bus thing as that's what a lot of Coaster were used as and it's designed to alert the driver if any of his or her charges decide it'd be fun to open the rear door on the way to school.

Clearly, the door and its lock are not giving the bus the message that the door is shut and locked, so the first thing to check would be the little switches that control this message. You'll usually find them inside the door jamb where they're activated when the door is shut on them. But the rear of a vehicle is where dust tends to be drawn and settles, so the switches can sometimes fill up with dust at which point electrical contact is lost and the alarm doesn't know where it is.

You can buy a product in a spray-can called electrical contact cleaner. A quick spray of this along with cycling the switches manually a few times (with your finger or a chopstick or whatever) can sometimes restore normal operation. If not, you could be looking at a broken wire or some other kind of electrical problem in the dashboard or anywhere else along the wiring loom's path. But a quick fiddle with the relevant switch is a good first shot.

Glad to hear you've had such a great run with your car. I understand what a great safety device a reverse camera is, and if it was standard fitment in your car when it was new, it could very well be a roadworthy item if it's not working. However, I wouldn't be too worried as the GPS and bluetooth functions should not be related to the reverse camera or the cruise-control.

If the reverse camera screen ever went on the blink, you could fairly cheaply add a replacement aftermarket unit which would also restore your Bluetooth and possibly even your GPS functions.

Glad to hear you've had such a great run with your car. I understand what a great safety device a reverse camera is, and if it was standard fitment in your car when it was new, it could very well be a roadworthy item if it's not working. However, I wouldn't be too worried as the GPS and bluetooth functions should not be related to the reverse camera or the cruise-control.

If the reverse camera screen ever went on the blink, you could fairly cheaply add a replacement aftermarket unit which would also restore your Bluetooth and possibly even your GPS functions.