Ask The Guide

It sounds like you’re chasing a problem that is a bit elusive. If your initial suspicions were that the centre bearing was worn, what makes you think the rear universal joint is now the problem? You could spend a lot of time and money replacing things that, ultimately, don’t fix the problem.

The best advice is to take the car to a transmission specialist who will be able to diagnose what’s really going on and replace or repair those things. Even if the universal joint is worn out, replacing it can be a bit tricky as you have to maintain the driveshaft’s original alignment to avoid introducing new imbalance dramas into the equation. It’s not, therefore, as straight-forward as it looks on paper.

But don’t rule out a damaged, bent or unbalanced driveshaft as this can also cause the sort of symptoms that a worn universal joint can contribute.

If the car won’t accelerate beyond 40km/h, it could be because it has gone into limp-home mode in order to protect itself from further damage. If so, that’s possibly because there’s a major problem somewhere in the driveline. But the chainsaw noise is pretty worrying, too, and suggests that something is rubbing on something else that shouldn’t be.

The best advice is to not drive the car any farther until it’s been checked by a mechanic. Continuing to drive it risks doing more damage to whatever is already wrong with it.

It sounds like there’s some kind of problem with the way you have the wiring loom hooked up. One wire in the wrong spot can cause all sorts of mayhem, even in an older car like yours with its relatively wimple wiring. Grab a circuit diagram and try to find out which wire is connected to the wrong terminal.

The other possibility is that the actual light switch has failed internally, allowing the wrong wires to contact each other, or causing them to fail to connect altogether. If you can’t figure it out, it should be a fairly simple and quick fix for an auto electrician to sort.

First suspicion would be that the fuel injectors need either reconditioning or replacing. Rough running, hard starting and excess black smoke are all classic symptoms of worn injectors. That said, the modern turbo-diesel is a pretty complex animal, and you could also have a problem with the emissions system (EGR valve) or maybe a build-up of soot and oil in the intake system (which could also affect any number of sensors around the engine).

Don’t forget the basics, either; something as simple as a dirty air-filter element can also cause problems just like the ones you’re having.

There’s a very real chance that in getting the headlight globe out and a new one in, you’ve somehow managed to bump the indicator light fitting and, perhaps, dislodged a wire or displaced an earthing point. The lights on the Captiva are housed in a cluster, so it can be a bit tight for space in there.

So give the indicator globe a wiggle and see if that restores things. If not, you need to look a bit deeper and start checking fuses. But if the rest of the indicators are working properly, it’s most likely that you’ve knocked a wire off or something similar. Either that or the indicator globe has chosen that exact moment to blow. It sounds unlikely, but it’s definitely possible.

A lot of workshops that aren’t too familiar with a certain make and model will often neglect this little detail, mainly because they either forget or don’t know how to cancel it. The good news, it’s a pretty simple procedure.

Switch the ignition on but don’t start the engine. Then, press the little black button inside the tachometer (just above the 'RPM' symbol) until the oil-can symbol appears. Then, hold the same button for a few seconds until you hear a beep and the number next to the oil can changes to 100 (per cent). That’s it, you’re done.

This might sound like a long shot, but are you sure the fuse was okay? Sometimes, these delicate little fuses might look fine, but can still be blown. To make certain, change it for a new fuse anyway and see if that returns things to normal.

However, modern car components like display screens are no different to any other modern electronics (except they live in a much more hostile environment than the TV in your loungeroom). Which means, of course, they can simply die for no apparent reason. At which point, this becomes LDV’s problem as it’s a pretty straight-forward warranty issue. Take the car back to the dealership, tell them the problem and it’s their responsibility to fix as per Australian Consumer Law. LDV can choose to fix the screen or replace it, but it must be returned to fully working condition at no cost to you.

What make you think it’s the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor? If you’ve simply googled the symptoms and found a forum that suggests the MAF sensor, be very careful. These forums are not universally populated by people who have the first idea of what they’re talking about. True, some forums are great and wise, but simply pulling an answer out of a hat without even seeing the car is a road to nowhere in many cases.

It's also why the advice we’d have to give is to have the car looked at by a professional who will probably start by electronically scanning the car to see what fault codes have been logged by the computer. It’s possible the MAF sensor is, indeed, the problem, but it could also be about a thousand other things that need to be ruled out before you start spending money on new parts that may or may not solve your problem. The fact is, these symptoms could be anything from a dud spark plug to a loose wire, either of which would cost a lot less to fix than fitting a new MAF sensor.

You say you’ve checked the basics, but it’s worth taking a close look at electrical connections that form the basis of the car’s ignition system. Are all the plug leads properly connected? Is the high-tension lead form the distributor to the coil secure and the coil wires correctly hooked up? Any fault with these things can cause a no-start situation.

The other prime suspect in a car of this age would be the electric fuel pump. These usually live inside the fuel tank and have a very finite lifespan. If you can’t hear the pump humming when you turn on the ignition, it’s probably dead and could well be the cause of your problem.

Beyond that, there are a lot of things that could be the cause here, but many of them are cheap and simple to fix once you’ve diagnosed the issue. It’s worth having the car checked over in case it is something really simple (and inexpensive). The Mitsubishi V6 is pretty good unit and if you’re happy with the rest of the vehicle (and it sounds like you are) then fixing the problem and squeezing every last kilometre out of the thing is the way to go.

The confounding element, of course, is that fifth gear is getting hard to engage. This could be a simple linkage adjustment problem, low clutch fluid or it could be a worn out clutch. Again, though, a proper diagnosis should be your next step before deciding whether to repair or sell and move on.

I’m not sure about other markets around the world, but the Barina Spark sold in Australia between 2010 and 2015 was a five-door hatchback. That is; it had four doors and a lift-up tailgate (hatchback) that is considered the fifth door.

At first glance, you might be forgiven for thinking that the Spark is, in fact, a three-door car, but that’s because the South Korean designers (the car is actually a Daewoo with Holden badges) styled it to look that way by hiding the rear door handles high up in the car’s C-pillar. So until you look carefully and spot the rear handles, it could pass as a three-door. The idea is that it looks like a sporty three-door but has the practicality of a five-door.