Ask The Guide

The indicator lights on the dashboard are blinking fast because there’s not the usual load on the indicator circuit from the exterior globes. This is a great way to know if you have a blown indicator globe, as the light on the dashboard will flash faster on the side of the failed globe.

So you need to look downstream to figure out why none of the indicator lights are getting power to them. This could be a broken wire, a body-computer problem, a poor earth or some other electrical gremlin that is robbing the lights of their power source and signal. An auto electrician would be a good place to tackle the problem.

This sounds – on the surface – very much like a problem with the car’s body computer. The body computer controls all the electrical functions you’ve just listed as well as potentially being responsible for controlling the immobiliser. If the computer isn’t telling the immobiliser to switch off, you could easily find that the engine will turn but not fire.

It doesn’t work every time, but one way to reboot the body computer is to disconnect the battery and leave it overnight. This will sometimes restore the computer to factory settings (for want of a better term). If the computer is on the way out, however, this reboot may not be permanent. The other thing to check is the battery inside the ignition key. A flat or weak battery here can also mean the immobiliser doesn’t switch off and the engine will refuse to start. If none of that does the trick, an auto electrician is your best bet.

The failure to load the sensors is probably a centralised computer problem, since it’s more than one sensor (it would be an amazing coincidence if three sensors died at once). Either the Bluetooth connection is iffy, or there’s a software problem with reading what the sensors are saying.

I’m unsure how Great Wall can call the tyre-pressure sensor monitoring system a consumable. Yes, things like brake pads, tyres and batteries are considered consumables and not covered by a new-car warranty, but the tyre pressure monitoring system should last the life of the vehicle and is an important safety feature. I’d be ignoring the dealer and talking directly to GWM’s Australian customer service department and asking the tough questions. Australian consumer law is pretty clear on matter such as this one.

You could scour wrecking yards (as they used to be known) for the bits and pieces you need to replace, but you would potentially be buying parts with the same – or more – wear than the ones you already have. Some things, like rubber belts, globes, tyres and filters, you just can’t trust unless they’re brand new.

Pulleys and their bearings are considered service items meaning they will eventually need to be replaced. When that time comes, the best advice is to replace them with good quality replacement parts, as that’s the only way to make sure the same problem won’t reoccur in a short space of time.

Be wary, too, of really cheap replacement parts you can order online from no-name suppliers. That’s not to say cheap parts can’t be good parts, but quality is sometimes pretty sub-standard and you won’t know that until you’ve paid for them to be fitted and they’ve subsequently failed. And getting your money back from an online seller can be next to impossible in many cases.

The gasket in question is probably the head gasket and when this fails, it can allow the engine oil and coolant to mix, which is why you’re seeing oil in the coolant expansion tank. If you check the engine’s oil dipstick, you may find that coolant has found its way into the sump, mixing with the oil as well, giving the latter a milky quality rather than appearing clear and clean.

This would have been a potential warranty claim back when the car was new, but at 11 years of age – even with your low mileage – it would be a miracle if Holden agreed to fix it as part of a warranty job.

The Territory has a yellow check-engine light just on the outside of the tachometer’s face, around the 2000rpm mark. Perhaps that’s what you saw flickering on. This is probably nothing to worry about as the light immediately switched itself off, suggesting that whatever the problem was, it was a fleeting one.

This light is linked to the car’s onboard diagnostic system which monitors the entire car for faults and then logs them for future problem-shooting. If a problem occurs twice within a certain time-frame, then the check-engine light must illuminate to warn the driver to have the car checked and the problem fixed.

If the light reappears and stay lit up, then you need to act to have the problem found and fixed before it has the chance to do any permanent damage to the car’s driveline. As a side-note, a car with an illuminated check-engine light is technically unroadworthy.

A car like this shouldn’t frighten too many mechanics, largely because this is a fairly simple machine using well-understood technologies. In a situation like this one, most workshops will go back to first principles. That is: Air, fuel and spark.

On the surface, it sounds like a fuelling problem that is causing the engine to run out of fuel when it needs it most (when accelerating). So a check of the fuel filters, the fuel pump delivery pressure and volume and the injectors would be a good place to start. However, stumbling under load can also be caused by poor ignition, so the spark plugs, leads and coil(s) and charging system should also be checked out. Don’t forget things like a dirty air filter which also cause a case of the stumbles.

If all that checks out, then you need to start looking for a dud sensor somewhere in the engine bay. An electronic scan is a must for any electronically-injected car.

One of the biggest criticisms of the 2017 Great Wall Steed was that it had Isofix restraint anchor points in the seat bases, but no legal top-tether anchoring points at the top of the seat. As such, the vehicle was unsuitable for carrying children of child-restraint age with safety body ANCAP stating the vehicle was “not suitable for transporting young children”. This was a major reason the vehicle scored just two out of five safety stars from ANCAP.

It’s possible to retrofit top-tether points, but, because of the consequences of getting this wrong, the changes would have to be approved by a consulting engineer and signed off by the Tasmanian state registration authorities.

The simplest cause of a problem like this is the little sensor that `knows’ when the gear selector is in park. If the sensor fails or is maladjusted, it can’t tell the computer that the vehicle is in park (or neutral) at which point the computer won’t allow the engine to start.

However, before you start replacing bits and pieces, consider that this is a pretty obvious warranty job and LDV is obliged to fix it at no cost to you. Provided you have had the vehicle serviced properly and haven’t exceeded 130,000km, LDV’s responsibilities are quite clear.

In 1997, the Ford Transit was offered with a pair of diesel engines and a petrol engine. But the most powerful of them (the petrol) could muster up just 83kW, which, combined with the weight of the vehicle (around 1600kg) plus the weight of the camper conversion (maybe another tonne with full water tanks etc), equals paltry performance and acceleration.

The simplest thing to do is make sure the engine is tuned to its absolute best. But even then, you’re fighting an uphill (literally) battle thanks to all that mass, not to mention the appalling aerodynamics of a campervan. If you don’t mind spending a lot more money, you could upgrade the engine and transmission to a more modern one but, at that point, you’re probably better off buying a newer van altogether.

Maybe in 1997 life was quite a bit slower and your vehicle wasn’t such a mobile roadblock. That said, plenty of modern day caravaners are happy to sit at 80 or 90km/h, so maybe you just need to find the right mindset and become a bit more Zen with your camper. Of course, even if you do manage that, some driving tasks such as overtaking and merging into traffic will require plenty of forward planning and understanding from other motorists.