Ask The Guide

The refusal to shift from four to two-wheel-drive could be any number of things from an electrical or switching fault to a mechanical failure within the transmission or transfer-case. So that needs to be checked out before you do any more damage to the vehicle.

In fact, the best advice would be to not drive the car any farther at all, because the jerkiness you describe is typical of a part-time all-wheel-drive vehicle that is locked in all-wheel-drive being driven on a normal, or grippy, surface. The need for the inside and outside wheels of a vehicle need to turn at different speeds when cornering, is over-ridden in a car like yours when low-range all-wheel-drive is selected. At which point, what you're feeling is the entire driveline fighting itself and loading up incredible stresses into the axles and differentials. Drive it any distance like that and you'll surely break something mechanical.

I've used the last versions of both those models for this comparison, which means a 2019 BMW 320d and a 2021 Mercedes-Benz 220d (I'm also assuming you're comparing diesels with diesels).

As such, the BMW holds a slim on-paper advantage with an official combined fuel consumption number of 4.4 litres per 100km, compared with 4.7 litres for the Benz. In the real world, that difference is a very, very small one and means the two vehicles are more or less line-ball for fuel economy.

Real world fuel consumption has a lot more to do with your driving environment and style than it does these laboratory-produced numbers. But the official numbers are valid on the basis that both vehicles were subjected to the same strict test regime, so they do provide a direct comparison, even if you'll almost certainly never match them in real life. Both, however, will surprise you with how frugal they can be.

It won't be the sump itself disintegrating, but my guess is that somebody who has changed the oil in the past has over-tightened the drain plug when they've replaced it. That stretches the threads on what is often a relatively soft metal and, as a result, the threads have broken away from the rest of the oil pan as you've tightened the plug.

This is actually more common than you think and happens because people don't stop to think about how much force they use when they replace the plug. While it's true that you don't want the plug undoing itself while you're driving, it's also the case that all that sump plug has to do is keep the oil inside the engine. It serves no other purpose and simply doesn't need to be too tight. Sometimes, home mechanics ignore the need to replace the crush washer on this plug with the result that they then notice an oil a leak a few days later. That's when they'll reach for the big spanner and try to tighten the sump plug some more to stop the leak. And that's when the threads break away and they're in the position you now find yourself.

The solution is to get the vehicle to a workshop (you may have to tow it as it can't be driven with no oil in the engine) which should be able to drill the hole in the sump to the next over-size and fit a slightly larger, new sump plug. It's tricky though, as you don't want to allow swarf (little metal filings from the drilling process) into the engine where they'll damage those expensive internal parts.

The i30 should be fine for this sort of towing. You won't be placing too much stress on the car's mechanicals, and Hyundai rates the i30 to tow up to 1300kg. But there's a catch.

And that is that you're more likely to be limited by the trailer rather than the car itself. That's because that 1300kg limit is on the proviso that the trailer is fitted with its own brakes. Without a braked trailer, Hyundai reduces the towing limit to 600kg. The average box trailer doesn't have brakes, so that lower figure is most likely going to be your limit. Admittedly, that is still probably more than enough for what you have in mind.

Depending on what sort of noise the transmission is making, this sounds like a broken or worn out clutch. Without a properly functioning clutch, gears can be extremely difficult to select and can also cause horrible graunching, grinding noises when trying to select any gear, but particularly reverse.

If this is, indeed, the problem, you could be looking at thousands of dollars to remove the transmission, replace the clutch and reassemble the driveline. You might even find that the engine's flywheel is also beyond saving and needs replacing, too.

On the other hand, the lazy clutch could be a simple case of a leaking or worn clutch slave or master cylinder or even a poorly adjusted clutch system which is allowing the clutch to disobey what the clutch pedal is telling it to do. If that's the case, the fix could be quite simple and relatively cheap.

The point is that you need to know what the problem is before handing over the money, because the value of the same car with either problem will be vastly different. Perhaps finding a car with a properly working clutch and driveline is a better option.

Modern engine oils contain lots of additives (including detergents) to protect an engine from wear as well as keeping it clean inside. In many cases, this internal cleaning process is what makes the oil go a darker colour over time.

That said, I'd be surprised if an engine with just 40,000km on board is dirty enough inside to make the oil go black. Have you owned the vehicle from new? Did perhaps, a previous owner skip oil changes that allowed black sludge to build up inside the engine?

But equally, don't confuse discoloured with black. Check the oil when the engine is still warm. Hot oil should appear a slightly lighter colour than the same oil in the same engine when it's stone cold. Wipe some of the oil on the dipstick on to a clean piece of paper towel. Does it still look black, or is there a brown-ness to it? If it truly is black than you might need to switch to a high-detergent oil and give the engine a couple of quick oil changes (say, 1000km apart) to see if that cleans things up a bit inside.

Now having said all that, the question becomes one of whether your car is a petrol or diesel-engined i30. If it's a petrol engine, the above advice stands. But if it's a diesel engine, then ignore the above and stop worrying. That's because diesel engines are inherently filthy things which eat a proportion of their own exhaust soot and are, therefore, notoriously grotty, turning their engine oil black in seconds. In fact, by the time the oil has been poured into the filler cap and drained to the sump – before the engine has even been started – it's black. This is quite normal.

All of the Corolla Cross models in Australia that don't use the hybrid driveline are front-wheel-drive. Which suggests that you need to pony up for an all-wheel-drive variant to get the petrol-electric hybrid driveline. But that's not the case, because you can get the hybrid driveline in GXL and range-topping Atmos trim levels with either front- or all-wheel-drive. The exception is the entry-level hybrid, the GX, which is front-drive only.

For our money, the hybrid driveline is the bargain of the century as it adds only $2500 to the price of the non-hybrid Corolla Cross, yet should drop fuel consumption from around six litres per 100km to less than 4.5 litres for the same 100km. Stump up for the all-wheel-drive version and you'll also get a car with more grip on loose and slippery surfaces.

Provided you're comparing apples with apples (dual-cabs with dual-cabs, for instance) the exterior panels, glass and much of the chassis and platform should be interchangeable between these two variants of what is essentially the same car.

The differences are likely to be cosmetic, such as the Wildtrak version having a chrome tailgate handle rather than a black plastic one on the base model Ranger. But even things like headlights can throw up big differences. for example, the Wildtrak had LED running lights and HID headlights, which won't fit on the lower-spec version thanks to mounting and wiring differences. The Wildtrak was also available in its own palette of exterior colours, so matching panels colours might be difficult.

Then there's the question of what engine was fitted to either version you're trying to swap parts with. The different powerplants would have had different wiring looms (for different sensors in different positions) and perhaps even differences in where major components were mounted under the bonnet. Even the wheels of different Ranger variants had different sizes and offsets. So, a simple bonnet or mudguard substitution might be viable, but some parts sharing will definitely not be as simple as it sounds.

The first thing to do is to make sure your phone has Bluetooth switched on and is in Discoverable mode. Then, go to the menu on the car's info-screen and select Settings. Then scroll down and select Setup and then Bluetooth. From there, touch on Add a New Device. The car will then search for nearby devices and display them. When your phone's ID appears, scroll to it and press the Select button. Make sure the code on the screen for Bluetooth Honda Civic matches the code shown on your phone and you're good to go.

There are also online tutorials on how to connect Bluetooth to Honda Civic cars, and these are worth watching provided the unit in question is the same as the system in Australian-delivered Civics. Some markets had different set-ups, so make sure you watch the right video.

If all that fails, the connection instructions are in the car's owner's manual which, hopefully, is in the car's glove-box.

This system of Honda Civic Bluetooth paring was introduced on 2018 and on Civics, but it's worth mentioning that those earlier cars did not have on-board sat-nav. So to get navigation on the RS or VTi-L model, you definitely need your phone connected to make use of your phone's nav system.

The first thing you need to know is how to connect Bluetooth to Toyota Camry software. That means switching on your phone’s Bluetooth and making the device visible to the car.

From there, the 2011 to 2017 Toyota Camry Bluetooth pairing process involves going to the car’s screen and opening the menus to find the Bluetooth prompt. Your phone and the car should `find’ each other at which point you make sure the passcodes on each match and you should be good to go with a stable connection.

From then on, the car should recognise and pair with your phone automatically, without having the use the manual connection setup process. As well as make calls, the Bluetooth connection should also allow you to play music and access some phone apps through the car’s infotainment system.

Although it’s much better these days, Bluetooth Toyota Camry style wasn’t always brilliant and many owners complained of poor connections and call quality. This model Camry was caught up in that, too, so don’t be surprised if you have a few problems or need to spend some time troubleshooting. Some owners even ditched the standard Toyota head unit for an aftermarket one with better Bluetooth quality.