Used Car Reviews

Drive hard bargain
By Nhada Larkin · 17 Jun 2013
June is the most popular month of the year to buy a new car, so if you're about to invest in one of life's most expensive assets a few preparatory steps may save you thousands of dollars.According to the Federal Chamber of Automotive Industries, June is consistently the best month for sales of new cars, with 112,566 vehicles sold in June 2012.Community CPS Australia says the lure of end of financial year sales can be strong and consumers can easily get swept up in the excitement of shopping for a car.This is particularly so during big promotional sales, but Community CPS's general manager distribution in the NSW Hunter Valley, Ray O'Brien, says doing your sums first can result in savings."Sorting out your finances before shopping around helps clarify what you can afford," he says."It also gives you better bargaining power, especially if you get your loan pre-approved because you know your budget and can negotiate a deal straight away."O'Brien says while dealerships may offer finance packages with appealing interest rates, consumers should always check the fine print before signing a contract.But before heading for the caryards, consumers should consider:THE RESEARCH Consider the kind of car they are after and read reviews to narrow their choice down to the model that best suits and most appeals.Also consider things like running costs particularly fuel consumption, insurance and service costs.Check around on the internet and see what other prices are being advertised. If you find the same car cheaper somewhere else, it can give you useful bargaining power.THE DEALTrying to bargain with salespeople can be more difficult during sale periods and promotions, when cars have already been marked down, but it may be worth trying to haggle. The dealers are keen to sell, and may shift a little on price-or add in some extras - if they think they're going to lose you.When buying new, always check the VIN to make sure the build year is what the car is claiming an earlier build year takes value off the car.Also check that the official specifications of the car match what is being advertised in the image. Different wheels, for example, can be worth less.THE LOANBefore you start test-driving, get a car loan pre-approved.Consider all the terms and conditions on your car loan, not just the interest rate-do you need a deposit? Can you make extra payments?Read the fine print, particularly with highly promoted low rate loans-is it available for a limited time? Is it only for new cars?Consider all the expenses, not just the cost of the car -- Explore a few loan optionsSource: Community CPS Australia
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Tips for buying a fleet car
By CarsGuide team · 17 Jun 2013
Fleet cars once were boring vanilla vehicles. They were base-model sedans, painted white. Times have changed, fleets are more varied than ever and, suddenly, buying an ex-fleeter is a much more attractive proposition. "The fleet cars that come through now really just mirror the types of cars being bought
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Used Holden Captiva review: 2006-2012
By Ewan Kennedy · 17 Jun 2013
Holden Captiva is a medium-large SUV that has a lot of Australian input in its design and engineering teams. It is available in two slightly different body styles, with the MaXX having a sporty look and five seats, while the other body type can be purchased as a five- or seven-seater.The third row seats are larger than those in many of Captiva’s seven-seat competitors and, while still better suited to children than adults, can carry the grownups in reasonable comfort.Storage space when all seven seats are in place is severely restricted, hardly unusual in this size of vehicle. The seats can the folded down in a variety of ways and, when all are flat, you have up to 1565 litres of luggage space.There are a number of smaller stowage compartments including a large wet/dry area beneath the load compartment floor. Interior storage is excellent, with seatback pockets; a glovebox cooler; front and rear centre console storage; door bins; drink holders; and an overhead sunglasses holderWhen introduced in 2007 the only Captiva powerplant was a 3.2-litre V6 petrol built by Holden. The engine was shipped to the South Korean factory to be installed in Captivas used on many global markets. A 2.0-litre diesel engine was added to the range in March 2007.Initially all Holden Captiva models used the same part-time 4WD system, with drive normally being to the front wheels and the rear wheels being engaged when extra traction was demanded.The 4WD system is well engineered and the Holden Captiva can tackle some quite tough off-road areas as it has good approach and departure angles. It’s not a heavy-duty 4WD but can go surprisingly far in the hands of an experienced operator.A 2WD version, through the front wheels, was introduced in December 2009. Called the Captiva 5 and using the MaXX style body it’s a five-seater powered by a 2.4-litre four-cylinder petrol engine.A five-speed automatic with tiptronic-style manual override was the only transmission option until the arrival of the Captiva 5, which is offered with a six-speed manual as well as an automatic transmission. The automatics were upgraded to six forward ratios with the introduction of an upgraded Captiva in February 2011.All Captiva models come with electronic stability control, ABS brakes with brake assist, traction control, active rollover protection and descent control. There are dual front airbags in all models with side curtain airbags optional in the lower cost models and standard on the others.Holden is very well represented in most areas of Australia and dealers in all regions are likely to carry the more common spare parts for the Captiva. Other components can usually be shipped in within a couple of working days. Prices are lower than average for an imported vehicle in this class.Parts and servicing costs are reasonable and the relatively simple layout of the Captiva means the good amateur mechanic can do a fair bit of their own work. Safety related items should only be worked on by professionals.Insurance costs are pretty reasonable and we haven’t seen a big variation between companies. However, it’s always smart to shop around for the best deal making sure that you’re comparing apples with apples when doing so.Check for rust in the lower area of the body and in a Captiva that may have been used on the beach. Look over the interior for signs of dirt having been ground into carpets. Similarly, check for damage and/or stains on the seats.Look for off-road damage to the bumper corners, the door sills and for light scratches in the paintwork on the doors and the front guards. If the load area has been used to cart heavy gear and/or has been damaged by poor loading and/or fastening there could be severe damage to the carpets. Again, signs of sand may be bad news.Engines that are slow to start or blow smoke when worked hard may be due for major repairs. Automatic transmissions that don’t go into Drive quickly when moved from Neutral or Reverse may need servicing.So few SUVs ever get taken off-road that it’s probably worth passing up one that has been used as an SUV. Silly, isn’t it? 
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Used Honda Accord review: 2003-2012
By Ewan Kennedy · 11 Jun 2013
Honda cars have long held a reputation as being a step above other Japanese marques in quality and prestige. Nowhere does this show more than in the medium-large Accord sedans.These days the Honda Accord sells in Australia in two different market segments. One, called Accord Euro, has a real emphasis on sporty handling and has gained a good reputation amongst those who enjoy driving. It gives, precise communicative steering and plenty of road grip. Handling was improved further when an upgraded Euro model arrived in Australia in June 2008.The other variant, simply called the Honda Accord, is larger, American-based and leans in the direction of passenger comfort rather than sporty dynamics.Many owners only drive gently and find the Accord’s characteristics most acceptable. Those drivers with more of a sporting makeup will find these Accords are rather soft and inclined to understeer at relatively slow speeds.Australia is the only country that takes imports of the two significantly different models, showing the high regard in which our country is held by the head office chiefs in Japan.Honda Accords in Australia are four-door sedans (though the European market also has a station wagon variant). Interior space is good, though the Euro is smaller than American Accord so for adults to get comfortable in the rear seat the front seats have to be set a few notches forward.Boot space is good, with a wide, low opening which makes it easy to load. Naturally, the boot in the larger car has greater volume, but the Euro’s luggage area is more than acceptable if only couples are using the car.The Honda tradition of designing cars with good outward visibility makes the Accord easy to drive and park, as well as making it comfortable for young children to see out of. However, crash safety regulations that made thick pillars necessary mean that there's less outwards visibility in the these post-2003 Accord. They aren’t bad, just not as good as the excellent older models. A four-cylinder engine used in the Euro model and the American Accord has a capacity of 2.4 litres. The engine in the Euro is set to a higher state of tune than the one in the American car so need high octane unleaded petrol, the Accord is happy to run on 91, though a diet of 95 does seem to make it feel good.A V6 3.0-litre unit is used in the American Accord, but not in the Euro. The 2008 model change saw an increase in the V6 engine size to 3.5 litres. The newer engine design offers plenty of relaxed torque and uses less fuel than the smaller engine it replaced.The Accord Euro is offered with a six-speed manual to suit its sporting nature, though in Australia most are fitted with a five-speed sequential automatic. The American car is imported only with a five-speed automatic transmission.The Honda dealer network usually concentrates on the major population centres. If you live in the relatively remote country area it might be wise to make inquiries to Honda’s head office, or your local regional office, if you are considering buying one of the cars. Ask about the time it takes to source parts, although this is unlikely to be more than a couple of business days.Honda has worked hard at reducing spare parts costs in recent years. However, the price drops usually apply more to the common parts than to the unusual ones.These are relatively complex cars, especially from the 1998 model, and are best left to professional mechanics. A good amateur, armed with a workshop manual, can tackle some of the routine work.Insurance is generally very reasonable as is only to be expected from a car in this ultra conservative market segment. It will be interesting to see if the new sport-oriented Accord Euro changes the premium structure.WHAT TO LOOK FORThe engine should be all but inaudible at idle, even in the four-cylinder units. Any roughness may indicate problems.Check there are no oily black stains in the exhaust pipe and the surrounding body and bumper. Make sure there isn’t a puff of oily looking smoke from the exhaust when the accelerator is floored after the engine has been idling for a minute or so.Manual gearboxes should move freely with no sticking or crunching on fast gearchanges. Automatics should go into gear promptly and their changes should only be noticeable when you're accelerating hard.During your test drive check the brakes pull the car up evenly without one wheel locking before the others. On cars with ABS, feel for a pulsing through the pedal during very hard braking.Look at the condition of the interior, paying special attention to the top of the dashboard and the rear shelf for sun damage. Fading or cracking in these areas can cause hassles.Rust is not common but may have found its way into cars that have been badly repaired after a crash. If you’re not sure, have a professional check out the car as repairs can be expensive.CAR BUYING TIPCars used by families often have more wear and tear in the boot than those used by couples. The condition of the back seat in a kid carter depends greatly on the amount of discipline the juniors have been taught... 
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Used Nissan Dualis review: 2010-2011
By Graham Smith · 07 Jun 2013
The Dualis was a compact SUV aimed at the small car buyer wanting a higher seating position and a bit more luggage space than a conventional small sedan or hatch.NEWIt struggled when first launched in 2007, but the Series II update in 2010 realigned it closer to its target market with price shifts that brought it tantalising close to the hard-charging segment leaders.The main models were front-wheel drive wagons that gave small car buyers the choice of a wagon with the main benefits of an SUV, ie, the high driving position and the cabin space for luggage.Had you wanted you could have stepped up to a more highly equipped models, and for those who had a bigger tribe you could have a seven-seater.All came with a 2.0-litre four-cylinder petrol engine that pumped out 102 kW and 198 Nm when working at its peak. It ran on regular unleaded and had plenty of zip when required.The transmission options were a slick six-speed manual and a CVT auto that could be shifted manually thanks to predetermined gear settings that made it seem like a manual.Final drive was predominantly front-wheel drive in the 4x2 models, but for those who wanted the safety and feel of all-wheel drive could have it in the 4x4 models, which were equipped with an on-demand all-wheel system that fed drive to the front wheels when needed.All models were well equipped; even the base ST got alloy wheels, cruise, air-conditioning, power windows and mirrors and a tele-tilt column. For more the Ti gave you leather, six-stack CD sound, auto headlamps and wipers, Bluetooth connectivity.NOWOwners are generally content with their choice of the Dualis, but there are a few complaints that are worth noting for reference when checking a car before purchase.Some owners complain about the performance from the 2.0-litre engine, reporting that it struggles when loaded, and with 102 kW that's not surprising. If you are likely to be regularly driving with a load of kids or cargo load; pack your car when test-driving so you can get a feel for the performance and make up your own mind.Others are wary about the CVT transmission, and rightly so. While they have been around for decades, they have never been as widely used as they are today, and that means we're seeing more problems with them than ever before as carmakers sort out the glitches that arise.It's absolutely crucial to test-drive the car and put it through its paces under as many driving conditions as you can imagine, from parking speed to high speed, fast acceleration, low acceleration, overtaking etc. so you can get a good feel for the way the CVT operates.Some drivers have been concerned about the way the CVT drives. The idea of the CVT is to keep the engine operating in its most efficient range, and sometimes that feels like it revs quite a bit when it seems like it should be selecting a higher gear. It's just something you have to get used to.Brake wear is often raised as an issue and Dualis owners report that they get about 50,000 km out of a set of disc rotors and some feel that's not enough. The British build quality isn't as good as the Japanese is, and there are also reports of quality issues with a high wear rate on interior trim and plastic interior bits and pieces falling off.The trade gives the Dualis a guarded tick of approval, saying that it's reliable and durable, but it's let down a little by build quality and the relatively high cost of parts out of England compared to Japan.SMITHY SAYSDecent all-rounder for the family that wants more than a small car can deliver.Nissan Dualis 2010-2011Price new: $24,990 to $36,890Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cylinder, 102 kW/198 NmTransmission: 6-speed manual, CVT; FWD, AWDEconomy: 8.6 L/100 km (CVT), 8.3 L/100 km (man)Body: 4-door wagonVariants: ST, Ti, +2 ST, +2 TiSafety: 5-star ANCAP 
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Used Toyota MR2 review: 1990-1999
By Ewan Kennedy · 03 Jun 2013
The huge success of the Toyota 86 in Australia, indeed globally, has reminded people that Toyota doesn’t only make sensible but boring cars, it also builds excellent sports machines. These have been somewhat short on the ground over the last decade or so, but quite a few Toyota Celicas and MR2s are still on Australia roads.Let’s look at the MR2 in detail: the name stands for Mid-engined Roadster 2-seats and MR2s are often bought by those who would dearly love a Ferrari but are a few hundred thousand dollars short of the necessary folding stuff.All real sports cars and racing cars have a mid-engine layout as it gives the best possible balance and traction. However there are some drawbacks in the handling department. Like many other mid-engined cars the Toyota MR2 can be tricky when it approaches its limit of adhesion. The difference between being in control and out of control is relatively narrow.At-the-limit handling improved with the second-generation Toyota MR2 of March 1990 and again with a revamp of the suspension in February 1992.Drivers without proper training and/or who drive in a sloppy manner should perhaps go for a less pure car than the MR2, though if you only want a cruiser and have no intention of driving it hard it may work fine for you.Then again, do you really want a pure sports car that won’t extend you when you’re behind the wheel, particularly on track days?The MR2 is typically Toyota in the reliability stakes in that it can run for years on end without problems if driven maintained correctly. Obviously, this is after all a sports model and some have been thrashed on the road or even pushed to the limit at racetracks.As it is strictly a two-seater, the Toyota MR2 is relatively spacious in its cabin because there's no need to compromise on squeezing in another pair of seats. Try before you buy, though, if your previous driving has only been done in hatches or non-sporty coupes.Boot space is better than average for a car of this type. Mid-engined machines are notoriously bad in this aspect, but the Toyota is capable of holding a week's shopping, or even holiday luggage if you are careful with your packing.Until the third-generation model of 2000 the Toyota MR2 was a closed coupe with a targa top, from then on it was a full convertible.From October 1987 until March 1990 the sporty little MR2 was powered by a four-cylinder engine of just 1.6 litres. Later models had a 2.0-litre unit which significantly improved performance, though these cars are still far from being the powerhouses you would expect from their styling.The MR2 convertible has a high-tech 1.8-litre four-cylinder engine and is by far the best in the performance stakes. It has to be revved hard to get the best from it, but that’s part of the joy of driving a true sports machine.A conventional five-speed manual gearbox is fitted in all versions of the coupe. But the convertible has a sequential manual setup in which the driver doesn't have to use a clutch pedal but still has to make your their own gearchanges. Like all of its type this gearbox is an acquired taste, but not too bad once you get the hang of it. The sequential manual gearbox has five forward ratios until late 2002 when a six-speed unit was installed. And  if you find a convertible with a conventional five-speed manual, it’s likely to have been a grey import.This Toyota sports is not an easy car to work on as the mid-mounted engine/transmission assembly is hard to reach. Professional mechanics generally remove the complete transaxle and work on it on a bench. If you don't have the equipment to do this yourself the MR2 may prove a very expensive car to repair.Spare parts are reasonably priced, but bits of the first generation MR2s are now becoming rare. The Toyota dealer network is huge but the remote agents probably won't have parts in stock. Naturally, these people can order parts in should you find yourself stranded in the bush.Insurance companies tend to be wary of sports cars, and this Toyota is certainly a full-on sports machine of the type that makes insurers nervous. Shop around for the best deal but make sure you are comparing apples with apples, and ask questions if one company seems to be a lot cheaper than the others.Toyota MR2 quietly disappeared from the Australia market in March 2006, though some may not have been sold and registered until quite late in the year.Although the Toyota MR2 was a victim partly of its quirky gearbox, it died chiefly because of the swing away from sporty models amongst trendy buyers.WHAT TO LOOK FORLook for heavy brake-dust buildup on the insides of the wheels and on the front suspension components. Uneven tyre wear caused by hard cornering is easy to spot - be suspicious of tyres that have recently been renewed.Look for previously repaired crash damage: sight along the length of the panels for a ripply finish indicating they have been panel beaten; look for a mismatch in paint colours between panels; see if there are any small paint spots on unpainted areas such as glass and plastic parts.Check for poorly repaired areas of body in out of sight areas such as in the front 'bonnet', the rear boot and the engine compartment.Severe engine wear may make an MR2 reluctant to start. It’s usually worst when stone cold so try to arrange to get to the engine first thing in the morning.If the engine smokes from the exhaust and/or the oil filler plug it’s probably due for a major overhaul. Smoking is at its worst when the engine is left to idle for a minute or so, then accelerated hard.Gearchanges should be smooth and easy, with light clutch movement. Crunching gearchanges from a manual box is a sign of wear, the three-two downshift is usually the first to suffer.Have a good look at the interior, including under the carpets, in case an MR2 convertible has been caught out in the rain with its top down. Look for a roll-cage or signs that one has been removed, an indication the car has had serious racetrack use.Extra instruments, bigger wheels and tyres, a body kit, sports seats and the like may also mean an MR2 has been fanged, though it’s more likely they are just there to improve the looks.CAR BUYING TIPIf looking to buy a car that’s loved by enthusiasts it’s always a good idea to contact a car club for the marque. The guys and gals there may even know details of the specific car you have in mind. 
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Used Alfa Romeo 156 review: 1999-2006
By Ewan Kennedy · 24 May 2013
New life has been breathed into Alfa Romeo in Australia with the switch of control to the Italian head office; previously they were being brought in by a private importer. Price cuts and the introduction of new models have sparked buyer interest in new Alfas and Fiats.Sadly for sellers, but great news for buyers, the aforementioned change has resulted in lower prices on the used Alfa Romeo market.Though it’s supposedly just another mid-sized family car, the Italian designers of the Alfa Romeo 156 gave it plenty of verve in its design. Not only does it look great, the chassis has superb dynamics that appeal to those who really like to get out there and drive.Handling is what Italian cars are all about and the Alfa Romeo 156 doesn’t disappoint. It has a willingness to turn into a corner and once in there it has tenacious road grip. Steering is prompt and sharp and this car communicates to the driver as though it’s a sports machine.Few family sedans cry out to be taken for a run on your favourite bit of road early of a Sunday morning, but this Alfa Romeo just loves that sort of treatment.Despite looking like a sleek two-door coupe the Alfa 156 has four doors. The back doors are so well hidden that many don’t even realise they are there. The rear door handles are disguised as air extractor vents and we once had the experience of someone trying to get into the back of a 156 by squeezing in through the front doors.Once you’ve located the door handles, it’s reasonably easy to get into the back seat of the Alfa Romeo 156. However, the sporting heritage of the car’s shape shows up here and it doesn’t have the biggest of rear seats. Indeed the area back there is probably best left for children.The boot is also on the small side for a family car. The station wagon’s load area is a bit of a joke if you regard it as being a full wagon - but makes sense if you think of it as a coupe with an extended load area.Naturally, the Alfa wagon is much easier to load than the luggage area of a conventional two-door coupe. The Alfa Romeo 156 first arrived in Australia in February 1999 in sedan format with the station wagon being added in August 2000. In October 2003 the 156 got a major facelift that saw the traditional Alfa shield grille become considerably larger and stretching right down into the bumper. The tail was beefed out and a bit more brightwork added to the body.Power in the standard Alfa Romeo 156 range is provided by either a four-cylinder 2.0-litre or a 2.5-litre V6. The four-cylinder was upgraded to JTS specification midway through 2002 and we reckon it’s the one to buy. It not only has even more response, but also uses less fuel.In the usual Italian manner, the four-cylinder engine is the sporting unit aimed at the press-on driver, whereas the V6 is the luxury cruising unit. There is, of course, more acceleration from the V6 than the four, but the eagerness to work hard has been toned down.The Selespeed automated manual transmission used on many four-cylinder Alfa 156s, can be frustratingly slow and lumpy in the lower gears. We feel it’s better to buy a five-speed manual, but many have learnt to tolerate the Selespeed because they use their Alfa to commute in traffic. Try before you buy.The Alfa 156 V6 has a four-speed fully-automatic unit with semi-sequential options.An ultra-hot, very-expensive 156 GTA joined the range in August 2002. With a highly-tuned 3.2-litre V6, six-speed close-ratio manual box, bold body kit, big wheels tyres and brakes, it’s a real delight to drive. Look out for torque steer though, as it can try to take control of the wheel at times. The GTA didn’t sell all that well and was quietly discontinued in Australia in June 2004.Alfa Romeo is firmly established in Australia and there are a reasonable number of dealers. As is often the way with European cars, dealers tend to be concentrated in the major population centres and scarce in the bush.Servicing and spare parts prices are about average for this class. You can do some of the routine, non-safety items yourself but the engine bay is crowded and skinned knuckles aren’t unusual. Insurance can be expensive so make inquiries before falling head-over-heels in love with this Italian machine.Alfa Romeo 156 was replaced by the Alfa 159 in June 2006. The 159 is significantly larger so its introduction didn’t have the usual adverse affect on resale values that often occurs when a new model supersedes an old.New-generation Alfa Romeos are better built than the older models, however, we still see the occasional rough one, so be careful. We recommend that you always call on a professional before buying a car like this, although you can weed out the obvious duds by doing some initial checks yourself.A car like the Alfa Romeo 156 can fall into the hands of hard drivers because their very nature means they cry out to be driven to extremes at times. Signs of hard driving include severe wear on the tyres and lots of brake dust on the inside of the wheels and on the suspension inside of the guards.Look for body repairs; most easily spotted by mismatched paint on adjacent body panels, uneven gaps between panels, paint overspray on non-painted parts and ripples in what should be smooth metal.Make sure the engine starts easily and idles smoothly from the moment it gets going. Naturally the V6 will be smoother than the four, but the latter shouldn’t be rough.Engine performance from the 2.0-litre Twin Spark unit isn't great, but if it seems below par the engine could be suspect.A manual gearbox that isn't light in its action could be due for repairs. Do some fast changes from third down to second and feel for a reluctance to shift, or for funny noises.During your road test look for steering that wanders and feel for brakes that don't pull the car up evenly.Sports sedans don’t always get driven in a sporting manner, but it can be hard to pick which has received harsh treatment. A professional inspection should be regarded as essential. 
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Used BMW 5 Series review: 2000-2012
By Ewan Kennedy · 20 May 2013
The BMW 5 Series is a medium-large German machine that’s aimed as much at the sports sedan market as at the buyers of luxury saloons.Older 5 Series are rather smaller inside than you might expect. That’s chiefly because it has rear-wheel drive and the engine is set well back in the bay, meaning the gearbox is beside your feet. Recent cars, since about 2004, are better off in this respect, but it’s still wise to try all seats for size.Handling is enhanced by the near-perfect weight distribution that’s the result of rear-wheel drive and the engine’s position. This is a car that feels just wonderful; seemingly the harder you drive at a bend the better it feels and responds.The really clever thing is that this sports handling is achieved without upsetting comfort. Some of the worst of Australian roads may catch it out at times, but it generally makes light work of rough surfaces.The great majority of BMW 5 Series sold in Australia are four-door sedans, but in recent years we seem to be joining our European cousins in choosing station wagons. Called ‘Touring’ wagons in BMW speak, these have a reasonable carrying capacity, though, as is often the way in the boutique-wagon class the slope of the rear end does restrict the entry of bulky objects.Engine performance is good, even from the models with relatively small capacity. The non-turbo straight-six with a relatively small size of 2.0 litres, but has enough performance for many owners. The silky smooth nature of the straight sixes is excellent.Big capacity BMW straight-sixes are some of our all-time favourite powerplants, providing effortless performance and a willingness to rev that’s delightful.Many recent BMWs have turbocharged four-cylinder units that have plenty of torque. Though the engineering to minimise turbo lag is impressive, they still don’t provide the near instantaneous response we have loved in BMW non-turbo engines for many decades.Rounding out the petrol engine range are superb V8 units. Big on power and torque they are much loved by enthusiastic drives. Their fuel consumption isn’t as high as you might anticipate as they are an excellent design.BMW Australia was one of the early adopters of turbo-diesel technology downunder. These have become increasingly popular over the years. Turbo lag is better than average, but can still be a pain at times. But once that lag has gone and you’re into the big-torque midrange, you will love the endless grunt they provide.Insurance can be expensive due to the cost of parts and the high status of trained repairers. So if you are moving up from a more mundane car to a BMW for the first time, shop around on premiums before becoming over-committed to the dream car.Spare parts and repairs are about average in price for a vehicle of this type and prestige rating.BMW is well represented in most major areas in Australia. Some factory-trained BMW mechanics have since left the company and set up independent repair shops. They don’t have the same factory contacts as the official dealers, but are often highly regarded by owners. This is certainly not a car for the amateur mechanic to attempt to work on.WHAT TO LOOK FORCheck on the insides of the front wheels and brake callipers for excessive brake-pad dust. That may be a sign of a hard driver.Make sure all electronic and electrical items are operating correctly. Use the owner’s handbook to make sure you find everything as these are among the most complex cars on the planet.Look over the car for body damage and previous repairs.Be sure the engine starts virtually immediately and idles smoothly from the moment it fires up, even when it’s stone cold.The engine should accelerate without hesitation and not blow smoke from the exhaust, no matter how hard it is worked.Automatic transmissions should change smoothly and, except for some changes on big throttle openings, should be all but impossible to feel.CAR BUYING TIPIf moving upmarket to a European car after a series of sensible low-cost Asian models make sure you budget for the high cost of servicing and repairs. 
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Best headphones for road trips
By Michael Turner · 20 May 2013
The Great Aussie Road Trip should be one of the highlights of your family holiday, but factor in the kids’ music and game tastes and they can turn into a nightmare.  Persistent nagging rides shotgun with the whirr of pings and tings emitting from the latest iThing, an irritating combination that your kids are more than capable of exploiting. And some headphones doesn’t necessarily solve that. Most low end headphones still leak noise at low volumes; while the noise pollution from some can just make the kids’s music even more unpleasant. So, how can we turn the sound down and the relaxation factor up? Getting a decent set of headphones will be money well spent. Bud earphones come standard with most phones, however kids often find the adult sized inserts uncomfortable, and they tend not to last long. The best option is the earphone’s larger, more comfortable cousin. The headphone. Headphones are dropping in price, and increasing in variety. Studio quality headphones can be picked up for under the four digit mark, and two digit headphones are getting better. So what are the best options for your kids? Go for the top shelf, and run the risk of losing $600 in one misplaced footstep? Or the cheaper option, and potentially get a product lifespan smaller than your child’s attention span. Here are the best options for your peace of mind, and your kid’s entertainment.    
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Small SUV's 2009 Review
By Craig Duff · 16 May 2013
Small SUVs are the auto equivalent of smartphones: you have to be seen with one. Those who haven’t already caught on are rushing to buy (or build) light and compact crossovers. In Australia, couples and families hold the view that SUVs represent the “best of both worlds”.With fuel economy and comfort to rival a small car; the space to carry furniture or friends and a high ride height for the “command” seating; SUVs are a multi-purpose lifestyle accessory. It’s just a case of which design suits that lifestyle.THE CARSExcluding the all-paw Forester, the rest of the fleet are front-wheel drive models. All are entry level automatic or continuously variable transmission versions. And all sold more than 1000 cars last month, making them as mainstream as a Toyota Camry.THIRSTSkyActiv technology gives the Mazda CX-5 the lead in the weekly fuel costs at around $26.33. That’s more than $8.50 cheaper than the dearest vehicle here, Hyundai’s iX35. It is small change over a week but adds up to more than $425 a year being siphoned out of the wallet/purse, so it’s worth considering.SERVICINGCaps off to the capped-price carmakers. Online disclosure means it is easy to see how much servicing of a Toyota or Hyundai will be. As yet, Honda doesn’t have the option of capped price servicing, while Subaru and Mazda want vehicle identification before they’ll quote the costs. Hyundai heads this pack with one yearly visit to the dealer that will cost $259.DEPRECIATIONBuying a new car is an investment in emotion, not practicality. The best-performing of this group - the Mazda, Subaru and Honda - will be worth just 54 per cent of its new price value in three years, according to Glass’s Guide. The Hyundai and Toyota will have halved in value over that period.MISCGovernment charges vary by state; check with your local authority for registration on a specific vehicle. The capped price servicing won’t cover items subject to wear in the normal course of their life, such as tyres, windscreen wipers and brake pads.*Fuel costs based on April national average of 142.6c for 91 ULP and 15,000km travelled annually.Mazda CX-5 FWD Fuel use @ 6.4L/100km = $1368.96 p/a = $4106.88 over 3 yrsCost $29,880. Residual value after 3 yrs 54 per centServicing: $394 first yr; $1745 over 3 yrs/60,000kmToyota RAV4 CVTFuel use @ 7.4L/100km = $1582.86 p/a = $4748.50 over 3 yrsCost $30,990. Residual value after 3 yrs 50 per centServicing: $340/yr; $1020 over 3 yrs/60,000kmHyundai ix35 ActiveFuel use @ 8.5L/100km = $1818.15 p/a = $5454.45 over 3 yrsCost $28,990. Residual value after 3 yrs 50 per centServicing: $259/yr; $777 over 3 yrs/45,000kmSubaru Forester 2.5iFuel use @ 8.1L/100km = $1732.59 p/a = $5197.77 over 3 yrsCost $32,990. Residual value after 3 yrs 54 per centServicing: $542.72 first yr; $1983.70 over 3 yrs/75,000kmHonda CR-V VTiFuel use @ 7.7L/100km = $1647.03 p/a = $4941.09 over 3 yrsCost $31,790. Residual value after 3 yrs 54 per centServicing: $483.64 first yr; $1450.92 over 3 yrs/60,000km 
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