Adventure advice

If you've got a trailer and need a tent, these are some of the best options on the market right now.

The long summer holiday season starts this month and many reasons can be found for stepping to the garage or carport to start the big trip instead of heading to the airport.You have great flexibility of destinations with a car, on the drive you get to see the real Australia, being able to stop and explore at little towns or attractions which you don't do above cloud at 36,000ft and when you arrive you have your own car to use for local exploring.Modern cars are airconditioned, have good brakes, tyres, engine cooling and cruise comfortably. Some even have DVD screens in the back so the tin lids can watch movies or play games.BUT any car should be checked before it hits the highway for the Big Trip. It's a trap to pile luggage and family into the family car that's done service all year as a runabout and expect it to to do the long, hot trip heavily laden. Heat will find any weakness, so the car must be checked if not serviced before leaving.Tyres must be in good nick. Pump up the tyres to pressures for high speed and heavy load (see the placard on the car) and the spare wheel. (Oh the joy of getting a puncture, pulling out all your luggage on to the side of the road in 40C heat only to find the spare is down, too).If the brake fluid has not been changed in the past few years, get it changed or you risk brake failure on long downhill runs.If the wheel alignment or balance is dodgy, get those attended to. Check the condition (and level) of the engine coolant and radiator hoses. For top-ups, carry a small bottle of the appropriate coolant for your car (but keep it out of reach of young kids because it can look like soft drink).Top up windscreen washer fluids, check and clean wiper blades and properly clean the inside of the windscreen to reduce glare when looking into early or late sun.If luggage space is tight compared with the number of people travelling in the car, the captain of the ship must make clear any luggage limitations well ahead. Have a practice run to find which suitcases and bags fit best in the boot or wagon so you know how to stack them on the day.Some cars have self-levelling suspension. Others can sag at the back when heavily laden and headlight aim might have to be adjusted for night driving.If travelling with younger kids, have ready some games or activities for them to more happily pass the time.If music is to be played in-car, have a mature discussion about what type and what volume so no person on board is disaffected.If having an early morning departure, pack the car the night before if it's secure. The driver doesn't want to start the trip with a crook back, grumpy from being delayed and sweaty.Take plenty of spare drinking water in case of breakdown. And carry bottled water or drinks and some munchies in the car to have while on the go.If bugs (such as locusts) are likely to be encountered, consider fitting flywire mesh over the grille and air intakes (fitting the mesh behind the front numberplate is a good way of securing it). But keep an eye on engine temperatures as such mesh can stop a lot of cooling air getting in.Carry a chamois or other means of cleaning windscreens and lights.Have suitable maps. The driver and chief navigator should study the maps and route first so they know what signs to look for when en route.On the road, have a break every few hours for a stretch and drink. But plan stops for efficiency: toilet breaks, having or replenishing food and drinks and refuelling the car can all be done at the one stop.Don't attempt too much distance in one day. Holiday season (extra traffic, caravans) makes the trip slower and travel times longer so be conservative when calculating where to stop overnight. Because it's holiday time book ahead. You don't want to arrive somewhere just about wrung out to find the only motel room is another 100km down the road into the sunset.If the car does not have daytime running lights, think about having headlights switched on in the day, especially if you are in a dull or dark colour car with the sun behind you. You do want other drivers to know you are there.If it suits, refuel first thing each morning (the fuel is cooler, therefore more dense and you'll get more for your money and effectively more into the tank). Check tyre pressures then before the tyres heat.Above all, drive safely. You've got your most precious cargo on board.IDEAL CAROn our latest family holiday long-distance road trip we took the Subaru Forester with diesel engine. It was ideal for the four adults with luggage.It easily stroked along at 110km/h just 2050rpm in sixth gear. This latest Forester has fair room for rear seat passengers, so no complaint about legroom from them, and headroom is generous, too.Seats are comfortable yet supportive, which helps handle the long hours inside. It's important if at the wheel for a long time that the driver is well positioned: the Forester allows this with adjustable height seat, adjustable reach and height steering wheel plus a left footrest.Forester has a full-size spare wheel so there's no need to creep along at low speed as when a space-saver is fitted after a puncture in the Bush. There's room around that spare wheel, under the cargo floor, for a few tools.Cargo space is fair. We benefitted by trying permutations of suitcases in advance . And it has tie-down hooks on the floor. It has a roll-out horizontal cargo blind for partial loads but we left it at home, covering everything with an old blanket which doubled as a picnic rug or tablecloth.For hours in the car you need drinks at hand and the Subaru Forester starred. Large bottles can be carried in the door pockets. And smaller ones in the centre console. Even the rear seat has a fold-out centre console with cupholders.The rear seat back has a slight recline facility for snoozers. And it has a three-point seatbelt in  the centre rear should there be five on board.Forester has five-star ANCAP occupant protection rating and it has stability control. Being an SUV with all-wheel-drive and 21cm ground clearance, it is sure footed on wet roads and can take to a dirt track for visiting off-highway spots much better than a regular car of similar size. Only quibble is it's lack of engine temperature gauge.It has only a (six-speed) manual gearbox, but little gear changing is needed thanks to 350Nm of torque at 1800-2400rpm and 340Nm coming at just 1600rpm. Power is 108kW at 3600rpm.Forester diesel has self-levelling rear suspension to keep the stance level despite weight in the back. Cruise control is handy for the long hauls and its fog lamps can be useful.Official fuel consumption for Forester Diesel, from $35,990, is 6.4 litres/100km (and highway at 5.7). We averaged 6.6 litres/100km on a haul to Broken Hill and back, much of the time with a slight headwind and with aircon switched on for part of the trip.SUBARU FORESTER 2.0 DIESELPrice: from $35,990Engine: 2L/4-cylinder 108kW/350Nm turbodieselTransmission: 6-speed manualEconomy: 6.4L/100km (official)

Before you hit the road on the trip of a lifetime in your new SUV towing your new caravan it's best to bone up on how to safely load your caravan so your dream drive doesn't end up a nightmare from hell.Start by finding out what your car will safely tow. All carmakers publish the maximum towing load their cars will haul down the highway.Remember, that load is the total load, not just the weight of the caravan or trailer. You also have to factor in everything you plan to load into the caravan or trailer, which can easily put you over the maximum towing load if you're not careful.You also have to be careful not to exceed the maximum towball weight. That's the weight bearing down on the towball, and it's generally about 10 percent of the total weight of the caravan or trailer when loaded.Too much weight on the towball puts too much weight on the rear wheels and not enough on the front, which can effect the steering, braking and road holding and make the car and caravan hard to control.It pays to check the ball weight for your car as it does vary from car to car. You'll find it in your owner's manual. Australian caravans are generally designed to have a towball weight of between eight and 15 per cent of the caravan's weight. Modern caravans have the ball weight stamped on the trailer plate that is fitted to each unit.Loading the caravan can affect the ball weight. Place heavy items over the axle and not at the extremes of the caravan or trailer.It's a good idea to load your caravan and trailer a week or two before to leave on your trip, so you know all is well when you do hit the road. Set the vehicle and caravan up the way you plan to have it on your trip and head to the nearest weighbridge where you will be able to weigh the caravan and also check the towball weight by measuring the load on the jockey wheel.

… like the Griswald family did in the classic comedy movie National Lampoon's Vacation.For a start, it will ruin your car's handling and fuel economy.Roof racks are good for things you don't want inside your car such as gas bottles, firewood, camping rubbish, spare fuel and smelly items like dead relatives.But tying your dead grandmother to the roof would create too much wind drag which would reduce fuel economy and cause destabilisiation at high speeds.Seriously though, roof racks are a great way of taking extra gear on holidays and are cheaper and more convenient than towing a trailer, but there are some issues you need to consider.Firstly, check the load rating of your vehicle and your roof rack and never exceed them.Roof luggage also raises the centre of gravity making your car about as stable as an upside down tenpin.Roof luggage acts like a weight at the end of a pendulum, making the swaying motion even more pronounced.There are some simple guidelines to packing a roof rack that will ensure that you travel safely and conveniently.Pack light. Even though it is an ideal place to store fuel, keep this to a minimum as any liquid is heavy for its size.Secure the load tightly. Load shift could cause your vehicle to lurch out of control. Spread the load. Too far forward and it will dive under brakes, too far back and it makes the steering light and vague.Loading and unloading roof luggage is a real task, so it is important to pack things up there that you don't need to access often.Remember that your car is now taller, so don't go into undercover car parks without checking the height of the vehicle or you might get a nasty surprise.It can get wet and dusty up there, so either keep valuables inside the car or wrap them in bags that are waterproof and dustproof.An aerodynamic pod protects your gear, prevents load shift and reduces drag thus preserving fuel economy. However, they are rigid and more difficult to pack than soft bags which are not as aerodynamic.You should also consider what sort of roof rack you should buy.Do you need roof rails, a rack, a pod or a variable combination?Do you need steel or aluminium? Do you need a pod or a bag?Light racks are only good for light loads. Stainless steel is strong and won't rust and ruin your car roof.

 For a start, don't tie your dead granny to the roof racks like the Griswald family did in the classic comedy movie National Lampoon's Vacation. It will not only ruin your car's handling and fuel economy, but probably your holiday as well.Roof racks are good for things you don't want inside your car such as gas bottles, firewood, camping rubbish, spare fuel and smelly items like dead relatives. But tying your dead grandmother to the roof would create too much wind drag which would reduce fuel economy and cause destabilisiation at high speeds.Even filling up the boot with heavy suitcases can affect the handling of your car. Some vehicles, like the new Subaru Forester, have self-levelling rear suspension which takes account of the weight in the cargo area. If you don't have that, then you should consider getting stiffer shock absorbers on the rear if you are going to carry very heavy items in the boot.Even if you don't fill your boot with your gym weights, the extra kilograms in the boot will still have an effect on the tyres. Consult your owner's manual which will indicate the correct tyre pressures for carrying a load.As much as possible, try to distribute the load more evenly through the car, putting the heavier items toward the front of the luggage compartment or roof racks rather than the rear.But don't be tempted to put heavy items in the passenger compartment as these can act as dangerous projectiles in a crash. These items belong in a trailer. However, towing a trailer will have an even bigger impact on your car's performance and handling.A better, cheaper and more convenient option is roof racks. They come in all varieties from soft racks that hold light loads and are easily removable to more permanent stainless steel racks that can take quite heavy loads. However, there are some issues you need to consider.Firstly, check the load rating of your vehicle and your roof rack and never exceed them.Roof luggage also raises the centre of gravity making your car about as stable as an upside down tenpin.Roof luggage acts like a weight at the end of a pendulum, making the swaying motion even more pronounced.This is emphasised in off-road driving where vehicles already sway and lurch dangerously over uneven surfaces.There are some simple guidelines to packing the boot or roof racks of your car, ute or SUV that will ensure you travel safely and conveniently this Easter.Pack light. Don't take everything on holidays. After all, you are getting away from it all, not taking it with you. Roof racks are an ideal place to store fuel, but keep this to a minimum as any liquid is heavy for its size.Secure the load tightly. Load shift could cause your vehicle to lurch out of control. Spread the load, especially on roof racks. Too far forward and it will dive under brakes, too far back and it makes the steering light and vague.Loading and unloading can be a real task. Keep important things that you may need to access at the back of your boot. Use roof racks to store things you don't need to access often.If you have roof racks, remember that your car is now taller, so don't go into undercover car parks without checking the height of the vehicle or you might get a nasty surprise.Roof racks can get wet and dusty, so keep valuables inside the car or wrap them in bags that are waterproof and dustproof.An aerodynamic roof pod will protect your gear, prevent load shift and reduce drag thus preserving fuel economy. However, they are rigid and more difficult to pack than soft bags which are not as aerodynamic.Racks on the back of the car are convenient for carrying bikes, but remember you will need to remove the rear number plate and fix it on the back of the bar.Bike racks will also make it more difficult to access the boot.Finally, don't forget to pack water for everyone and plug in those 12V chargers so you don't run out of mobile phone battery when you need it, or even worse, the kids' portable computer games consoles run flat.

Australia’s camper-trailer market has plenty of top-shelf campers, with the hefty price-tags to match, but it also has plenty of well-priced campers that will suit those with less funds from which to draw.

Camper-trailers add a whole new dimension to your camping game - they provide highly mobile accommodation and can be set up in minutes anywhere and everywhere. But how do you get the most of them and ensure that you have a great time away while you’re camping in one?

Many people don’t bother to do any extra checks to make sure their car is up to a road trip. But any journey outside your normal daily limits should mean running through a checklist – especially if you’re going to be travelling through areas where very few businesses are open. Prior to departureTyres: Check air pressure of your tyres, including the spare. Under-inflation is a leading cause of tyre failures and blowouts.Warnings lights: Ensure there are no vehicle warning and reminder indicator lights on and that any outstanding vehicle services have been performed.Checks: Ensure all weekly checks recommended in the owner's handbook have been performed:Batteries: Weak batteries can lead to breakdowns, possibly at the worst time and place.Brakes: An expert inspection can determine whether brakes are functioning properly with full braking capability.Windshield wipers: Old or worn windshield wipers can lead to poor visibility.Headlamps: Properly aimed headlamps are a must for optimal visibility.Oil: Change the oil and filter at recommended intervals to minimise engine wear and reduce the possibility of internal damage. Check the owner's manual for recommended intervals.Fluid levels: Improper fluid levels (coolant, oil, power steering, transmission, brake fluid and even washer solvent) can negatively affect vehicle performance, durability and safety.Belts and hoses: A broken belt or ruptured hose can cause costly engine damage and travel delays.Wheel alignment: Maintain correct front and rear wheel alignment. Incorrect alignment makes the wheels drag, which increases fuel consumption and causes uneven and premature tyre wear.Restrain loose items: Whenever possible, stow articles in the luggage compartment. Perhaps consider, if driving a wagon, fitting a cargo barrier to avoid loose objects entering the cabin. Check load capacity in the owner's manual.Mass distribution: Loading the vehicle changes the handling of the vehicle. After loading, be sure to take time to become familiar with the feel of the vehicle.Warnings: Ensure there are no vehicle warning and reminder indicator lights on.Towing: Check wiring, lights and towing hitch tyres and pressures (trailer tyre pressures should be higher than car tyres around 40PSI). Make sure caravans are loaded correctly, placing most weight forward of the trailer axle to ensure there is sufficient weight on the tow bar. This reduces sway. On the roadDo not speed: Stay within the speed limits at all times.Power naps: Try to avoid driving at times when you would normally be sleeping. If tired or fatigued pull over and sleep for 15 to 20 minutes.Share the driving: If your passenger or passengers are licensed, share the drive. Change drivers at least every two hours.Safe distance: Leave a minimum two second gap between your vehicle and the one in front. If towing, driving four-wheel-drive or if it's raining increase to a four-second gap.Time: Accept that during the holiday period it may take a little longer to get to your destination.Child occupant safetyBack seat: The back seat is the safest place for children of any age. Where possible install the child restraint in the centre rear position.Child seats: Remember to use the child seat for all journeys, however short. A baby is not safe in your arms. Even in a minor crash, collision forces may tear the child from your grip. Where legally allowable, you may install a forward facing child seat in the front seat (without a side impact airbag), but always move the passenger seat as far back as possible.Child restraints: Fit child restraints properly. Follow instructions and make sure the capsule or child seat is firmly fitted, with minimal sideways or forward movement on the car seat. Don't use a child restraint that's been in a crash. The protective structure could be invisibly damaged. Every trip, make sure that the child restraint harness is properly adjusted, checking that only the thickness of two fingers can be inserted between the harness and the child's chest.Child safety: It's never safe to leave children in cars, particularly in summer when temperatures inside a closed car can quickly rise to more than 60C. Leaving windows open a little does not reduce the temperature enough.Concentrate: Make sure you keep your child occupied on long journeys (with soft toys, music and stories). A bored child can distract the driver, fiddle with buckles and wriggle out of position.Assistance: If you require assistance in the fitting of child restraints, contact your local state roads authority or auto club such as RACQ. 

Camper-trailers are a big investment so you need to do your research and spend your hard-earned cash wisely.There are several things to avoid when buying a new or second-hand camper-trailer and here is our top 5 list of camper fails to give a wide berth.Avoid camper-trailers your vehicle is unable to towIt’s different strokes for different folks as far as towing and tow vehicles are concerned. Small vehicles will be able to legally tow smaller, less weighty camper-trailers and large 4WDs will be able to handle larger burdens at the back. Check the weight of your potential camper-trailer – it will be listed in the camper’s specifications. Hard-core off-road camper-trailers (built using heavy-duty materials and construction) or campers packed with features or options will be heavier than their cheaper, bare-bones or lighter entry-level on-road counterparts.Check your vehicle’s towing capacity – those figures will be listed as unbraked and braked* in your driver’s manual. Towing capacities can range from 640kg (unbraked) and 1200kg (braked) in a compact AWD SUV, to 750kg (unbraked) and 3500kg (braked) in many large SUV wagons and dual-cab utes, through to the 6989kg (braked) towing capacity of a Ram 3500 pick-up. For more, read our towing advice story here.*Your tow vehicle needs an electric/electronic brake controller system fitted and functional in order for you to be able to legally tow any camper-trailer, boat-and-trailer combination or caravan weighing more than 750kg.If your vehicle is legally able to handle the burden, then you’re good to go; if not, think about changing your target camper-trailer or upsizing your tow vehicle, if your budget allows. For more on vehicle and trailer weights, read our special feature.Avoid camper-trailers with below-par designNo matter which type of camper is catching your eye – pop-top (almost like a caravan), soft-floor or hard-floor, forward-fold or rear-fold – if it’s been poorly designed, you’ll be behind the eight ball before you even head off.Look for quirks and design flaws that may pose bigger problems down the track a bit: winder handles that don’t work as smoothly as they should, gas struts that aren’t doing their job properly, bed bases that are vulnerable to outside moisture, pinch-points on hinges, canvas that doesn’t tuck away or unfold neatly enough when setting or packing up, awnings/tented sections with too many spreader bars and no end wall, or those with a flat roofline which are prone to catching water when it rains.Avoid camper-trailers built with poor materialsThe better the materials used in the construction of your camper, the safer and more comfortable you’ll be. Check for top-quality materials such as a hot-dip galvanised steel chassis, Australian-made canvas, aluminium or steel poles, and a high-density foam or open-cell foam mattress on the bed. If these are in good shape then chances are the manufacturers haven’t skimped on other materials.Avoid camper-trailers with poor constructionIt doesn’t matter how good the materials used are if they’ve all been linked together in a chain of poor construction.You’re looking for a level of workmanship that matches the cash you plan to spend.Look for full, clean welds with support pieces in corners and crucial joins, including on the chassis and drawbar.Avoid campers with stapled woodwork in cupboards and kitchen where possible as it is prone to weakening and separation (after prolonged exposure to general usage and travel). Tidy and bolstered woodwork with glued or screwed joins is much better.Hinges, clips and latches need to be durable enough to cope with the rigours of camping and touring, and adjustable enough to squash tight in on dust seals to prevent water and dust ingress.Check the paint work on non-galvanised chassis and drawbar; a powdercoat finish is plenty tough enough for touring and camping; hammertone is also hard wearing – anything else can be a bit of a compromise.  Make sure all canvas on awnings or tented sections is well-stitched, blemish-, damp- and tear-free, and that there are no large holes in the sewing.Are all electrics (plugs, wiring etc) neat, tidy and safely functioning?Are water and gas fittings well put together, secure and in great working order?Avoid camper-trailers with labour-intensive set-up and pack-upIf you’ve seen people struggle with a particular camper’s set-up or pack-up process, then you should consider another camper.Ask the expert at a camper dealership for step-by-step instruction on how to set up your potential camper purchase, watch them do it, then have a crack at it, at your own pace. You’ll get better at set-up and pack-up with familiarity and repeated practise, but the process shouldn’t be terribly difficult to begin with – if it is, then that’s not the right camper for you.It only takes between five and 10 minutes to get the bulk of a camper-trailer set-up done, then probably another five to 10 minutes more to finalise the process, i.e. get awnings fully erect, all canvas sides pulled taut etc.

Here are a few problems - minor and major - that may reveal themselves when you're out and about in the bush or on the beach in your camper-trailer.