Adventure advice

Modern-day off-roaders are impressive, no doubt about that: they’re generally quite comfortable on-road and often quite capable off-road.But are they so good at doing 4WD things that they effectively rob any off-roading challenge of, well, the challenge part? Are they such a great blend of driver-assist tech and 4WD mechanicals that the driver is merely along for the ride?Read on.Off-roading in a contemporary off-roader (AWD or 4WD) can be such smooth sailing that you’d be forgiven for thinking “What’s all the fuss about?”Driver-assist tech with direct off-road applications – such as the 360-degree camera or vehicle-info read-out (displaying driveline/diff lock indicators, steering, pitch and roll angles etc) – is taking on ever more significant roles as it all improves.But invasive technology, finely-tuned off-road traction control and even overbearing drive modes can turn what might have been a technically difficult section of 4WDing into almost a point-and-enjoy-the-ride kind of driving experience because new off-roaders are simply that good.Don’t get me wrong, driver-assist tech is great, especially when it works as it should: being consistently effective when it really counts.Off-road traction control, hill-descent control, track cameras, transparent bonnet functions and more are welcome additions to any off-road vehicle.The Kia Tasman is a good example of a 4WD with an off-road traction control system that is so smoothly well calibrated the driver is nigh-on redundant.But if a vehicle’s off-road traction control system is patchy in its application, safe controlled momentum from a reliable base of traction is difficult to accomplish or sustain – and that can be annoying at best and dangerous at worst.The flip-side of that issue is that if the off-road traction control system is so finely tuned the only danger may be that the driver is rendered near-obsolete. The onboard tech does all the thinking for the driver, as well as adjusting engine output, transmission settings and traction control to best suit the terrain. So if you’re the driver you have an existential crisis on your hands in the form of “Why am I even here?”The same goes for hill-descent control; if you’re not in charge of modulating the vehicle’s speed and direction down a hill then shouldn’t you be in a passenger seat enjoying the view?Can you even call yourself a 4WDer if your vehicle does all the work for you?And what if your off-road vehicle has its own eyes watching the track ahead?A track camera (aka 360-degree view camera, or surround-view camera) has the potential to greatly enhance driver vision while you’re 4WDing on bush tracks, cresting steep hills, or traversing sand dunes on beach adventures.What started as more of a novelty for me, the track camera has taken on an increasingly important role. Sure, I still prefer to get out of the vehicle and check the track ahead myself or get a human spotter to do the work for me, but the view afforded by a track camera / 360-degree view camera will usually help the driver to maintain vision, especially if forward visibility is compromised, say for instance up and over the crest of a steep rocky hill, or if your vehicle is edging towards a steep rocky drop into a creek bed and you can’t discern your driving line.Helpful, but still robbing the 4WDer of another bit of responsibility, purpose and challenge.The same can be said for the transparent bonnet function. Can’t figure out what that is even though the tech’s function is literally in its name? (Literally.)Let me explain.This driver-assist tech is designed to help the driver see the correct driving line to take through challenging terrain or over an obstacle without being able to see with their naked eyes what’s under them.Being able to see the track in front of your vehicle is a definite advantage and visibility in some off-roaders is impacted due to the forward-view-restricting design of the cabin or the size of the vehicle’s bonnet, but the transparent chassis function is designed to address that issue.As with onboard cameras, I still prefer to stick my head out the window and have a look at the track, or actually stop the vehicle, get out and have a decent look at the track ahead before I proceed.If your off-road vehicle is working the gears for you, adjusting the speed for you and even looking for you, then how dare you have the audacity to sit in the driver’s seat.The problem with all of this tech – beyond its annoying over-effectiveness – lay in the fact that it’s all more difficult to address failures or damage in the great outdoors than it is to bush-repair an older traditional 4WD.Modern 4WDs are a mass of electronics, sensors, wiring, motherboards etc and those components may be vulnerable to damage, especially in harsh Australian conditions.And the efficacy of driver-assist tech may be impacted by the ingress of bulldust, mud or water. If onboard sensors are compromised or damaged in some way, then you’re at the mercy of nature.Imagine this: You and your family are on a weekend trip away in the bush and you’re currently 80km from the nearest town. You drive through an innocuous-looking creek crossing – the water seems to be about shin-deep. However, some of that muddy water splashes onto one of the vehicle’s onboard sensors and your 4WD automatically goes into the equivalent of ‘limp home’ mode.Bloody uh-oh.Old-school 4WDs can be more easily fixed in remote areas as opposed to trying to get a new vehicle running again which may require someone in your touring group to have a computer engineering degree or have a team of specialists choppered in from Germany.And that’s why old-school 4WDs – or even new old-school 4WDs (like the Suzuki Jimny or Jeep Wrangler) – continue to enjoy such enduring popularity and still fetch sky-high prices on the second-hand market.A real purpose-built 4WD with a full ladder-frame chassis, rigid (live) axles front and rear, and diff locks has always been admired by those in the know; basic and solidly reliable powertrain and mechanical components are the way to go.Any serious 4WDer has a soft spot for something like a Toyota LandCruisers (70, 80,100 Series, anyone?), Nissan Patrol, Land Rover Defender (the old ladder frame kind), Mitsubishi Pajero, even Jeep Gladiator. The old way of doing things is even sought after by some newer examples on the market like the Ineos Grenadier, Jimny and Wrangler.Resolving issues on those old-school 4WDs can be completed with a little bit of common sense, some ingenuity and a bit of hard work. A stack of spares, duct tape, cable ties and some welding skills will help you get a whole lot further than nothing at all and you’ll likely be able to patch up your 4WD, continue your trip and reach civilisation or at least the nearest town.The good news is no matter how clever your off-roader’s software, cameras and sensors are, it’ll still need you to press the ‘Start’ button.Or will it?

Fuel prices are coming back down slightly at time of writing, but this whole Middle East conflict has been a massive wake-up call for all of us.Australia is as vulnerable as any country to changes in fuel supply and/or prices.But you can reduce your 4WD's fuel consumption – and thus cut your fuel costs – by better managing your driving style and your 4WD.Fuel consumption depends on many factors – including individual driving style, the conditions, the load – but there are myriad ways you can at least reduce your vehicle’s fuel consumption so that you’re ultimately forking out less at the service station.Improving fuel consumption boils down to reducing the stress on your vehicle’s engine: the less stress and strain on your engine, the better it will perform and therefore the less fuel it will use.Here are some tips to slash your fuel bills – and most of it is common sense, really.Read on.The lighter a vehicle is, generally speaking, the less fuel it should use.A whole lot of extra weight onboard your 4WD – whether that be people, gear, pets or a load of job-site tools and materials you’re actually not using on any given day – places far greater demands on the vehicle than if it was unladen, and that excess weight will result in increased fuel usage.If you use your 4WD as a daily driver or if you rarely go out bush in it any more, do away with the bullbar, winch, roof-top tent, tray canopy (if it’s easy enough to get on and off), heavy-duty spare-wheel carrier, MaxTrax (be honest: you’ve never used them), long-handled shovel etc. Delete anything and everything that adds extra bulk to your vehicle, for now at least.All of that gear adds extra weight to your vehicle and thus increases fuel consumption. Again, this is all common sense stuff.On bitumen, recommended tyre pressures on a 4WD will generally be from around 30 psi (pounds per square inch) and up but always check the tyre placard on your vehicle to make sure.Always check tyre pressure when your tyres are cold (i.e. the vehicle hasn't been driven for about three hours) and only use a tyre-pressure gauge from a reputable company, such as ARB or Ironman 4x4, to get an accurate reading to make sure you're running at recommended pressure.If your tyres are under-inflated, rolling resistance increases and so too does your 4WD’s fuel use, simple as that.For reference, Michelin’s in-house tyre experts have described rolling resistance as “the resistance experienced by your car tyre as it rolls over a surface. The main causes of this resistance are tyre deformation, wing drag, and friction with the ground. The higher the rolling resistance is, the more energy to overcome it is needed.“A 30 per cent increase in rolling resistance generates between 3 and 5% of fuel overconsumption.”Rolling resistance is decreased when a tyre’s pressure is increased.No specific PSI tyre pressure figure can be applied every time to every vehicle on every different type of terrain or in every different driving scenario. Your optimum tyre pressure will change according to the vehicle, the load onboard, the terrain your vehicle is traversing, the time of day, the amount of time you've been driving on those tyres on that day, the size and type of tyres you're using and myriad other variables.However, there are various approximate tyre-pressure ranges that work best on different terrain and if you operate within those parameters, you will be able to drive off-road sensibly and safely.Note: If you want to know how to deflate and inflate your tyres, read this yarn.Another thing to think about is unsprung weight (tyres) and rolling resistance. If you’re driving around on big heavy Mud Terrain tyres, then of course your fuel use is going to suffer, so it’s time to throw on a set of road-friendly SUV tyres or mild all-terrain tyres.Worth noting is the fact that larger wheel sizes generally decrease fuel economy due to increased the weight and rolling resistance. Steel wheels are heavier than alloys so swap those out for the time being if you want to further decrease your fuel consumption.Drive with supreme patience and consideration.This is easy to accomplish: simply delete your heavy right foot.No more hard acceleration, no stomping on the brakes – drive smoothly and safely.Unless you’re urgently delivering a heart in an esky to an awaiting transplant patient at a hospital, there’s no need to drive like your pants are on fire.As I tell my kids about driving: just imagine your job is to make sure that everyone on the road at the same time as you arrives at their destination safely – no matter how determined they appear to not want to arrive at all.As mentioned earlier, improving fuel consumption boils down to reducing the stress on your vehicle’s engine, and one of the ways to achieve this is to ensure that your vehicle is well maintained, in terms of all components, fluids, filters etc.The better your 4WD is running, the less fuel it should use.When you head out, bunch the things you have to do for the day together, so you’re doing one trip, instead a series of shorter trips, with the extra driving, stop-starting, parking etc involved in those. Common sense? Of course it is.A hybrid vehicle – one with a traditional fuel source (petrol or diesel) and electric power – is a cheaper alternative to an EV and it yields better fuel economy and less environmental impact than a standard petrol or diesel engine vehicle.Hybrids, right now, offer the best of all possible worlds; currently there are still simply so many variables involved with using an EV as your vehicle of choice in Australia – range anxiety, long distances, lack of charging stations, the actual time it takes to charge – that, outside of the city, it doesn’t make as much sense as a daily driver as a hybrid does.Hybrid powertrains are claimed to improve fuel efficiency, boost torque, improve responsiveness and overall output.Is it time you consider something like a BYD Shark 6? Yep, join the queue.

If you’re a man - particularly a married one with kids and decades between you and your single days - hearing “bachelor pad” might be ever so slightly bittersweet, but there’s also every chance those words make you remember a time in your life when you were so footloose and fancy free you were basically Kevin Bacon.

Subaru locks in more hardcore off-road variants of its core SUV range.

Let's be honest, we’ve all dreamt of ditching our everyday jobs, throwing off the shackles of modern-day domesticity and doing a road trip around Australia.

When you’re on a vehicle-based camping trip, auxiliary power is crucial. A dual battery system – two separate batteries working in conjunction with each other but for different purposes – ensures your vehicle has start-up power and your campsite has consistent reliable power, sourced from the vehicle.A second battery, as part of a correctly wired and properly functioning system, will make sure you're able to start up your vehicle with your original battery and, using your second battery, you’ll also be able to optimise available power at camp and minimise any risk of running out of power while using your fridge, lights and any other camp accessories.To understand what a dual battery setup is and to find out which is the best system for your Toyota Landcruiser, Ford Ranger, VW Amarok, Isuzu D-Max or MU-X, Mitsubishi Triton, or just about anything, read on.A dual battery simply describes a battery system with a second or auxiliary battery that has been installed in addition to the vehicle’s original factory-fitted battery. The second battery is usually placed in a dedicated space on a purpose-built tray in a vehicle’s engine bay, cabin, rear-most load space, or in the tray (if the vehicle is a ute).Well, that depends on the system you’re having installed and whether you’re installing the set-up yourself (which is not recommended unless you’re very handy with the tools), or how much the mob doing the work for you charges for the dual battery system itself and the labour to fit it to your vehicle.Often it’s smarter to have a professional do it because if anything is incorrectly wired there's an increased risk of an electrical fire in the vehicle.As a guideline, expect to pay upwards of $2500 for the whole kit and caboodle to be fitted – that price includes approximately $1700 for the kit itself and anywhere up to $900 or more for 'Charge to fit product to vehicle' and any 'additional fit charge'.The aim of the extra power supply is to provide your campsite with readily available and consistent power, while not draining your main battery. Usually, a dual battery setup for a fridge prompts a 4WD tourer’s first foray into the realm of auxiliary power because keeping your food (and beers!) cold in a portable fridge is an integral factor in any happy trip away.A dual battery setup involves more than just installing a second battery, though. The two batteries – your vehicle’s starting battery and your auxiliary battery – are two separate, isolated systems.Your vehicle’s battery and alternator (the latter charging both batteries) are responsible for powering all vehicle-based gear while the engine is running; your second battery is responsible for powering all other camp-based gear, such as your 12V portable fridge, lights, laptops, inverters etc, when you are stopped and the ignition is turned off.A real-world dual battery setup includes a dual battery isolator, a dual battery monitor, all the necessary wiring and more. A dual battery isolator ensures that the two batteries are charged in order to keep the two power supplies topped up and working.A dual battery monitor, which allows the user to monitor voltage levels on both batteries just by checking an in-cabin read-out, is also key to maintaining convenient awareness and electronic control over the dual battery system at all times.There are plenty of dual battery setups available – including the Redarc dual battery system – and other reputable Aussie companies, such as Ironman 4x4, ARB and Projecta, are known for making top-quality electrical systems and battery-related products.Please note: An OME twin start-up battery setup – in which both batteries are intended as start-up batteries only – is not a dual-battery system, but the wiring can be sorted out to suit that system.This may be best left to the professionals but if you’re decent with the tools and know your way around a vehicle – and can get your head around a dual battery wiring diagram – then by all means give a dual battery installation a whirl.First, you need space enough for dual battery kit – either in your engine bay, in the cabin of your vehicle or in the tray (if you have a ute).A large deep-cycle battery needs a strong support and that’s usually in the form of a 3.0mm powder-coated steel tray on which the second battery will sit.Note: If your dual battery is positioned in a tub or load space, it can be fitted into a laser-cut, folded and welded dual battery box.That tray should be built to absorb hard-core off-roading punishment in order to protect the battery. If you’ve ever peeked under the bonnet of an outback touring Hilux and had a gander at its dual battery tray, or check out a Ford Ranger dual battery, you’ll have the right idea.Make sure you position your second battery well away from any heat sources, e.g. engine components that will become hot during long-distance trips etc.As for wiring and switchgear, in simple terms, a manual four-way switching approach relies on the user to dictate the battery system’s operational status: either its duty is to start the vehicle or to maintain power to the campsite. This system’s switch can be moved to a position where both batteries are being charged.Automatic solenoid switching – by way of a solenoid attached to your off-roader’s ignition wiring – will ensure the auxiliary battery is disconnected from the main battery when you turn off the vehicle’s engine and, when engine is switched back on, it is reconnected to the engine and recharged.Check at Aussie companies, such as Ironman 4x4, ARB, Redarc, Piranha and the like, for the best electrical system support set-ups around. You can buy the gear from them and do the work yourself or have them install it for you.For off-road touring, camping and caravanning, deep-cycle batteries are your best bet. There are several types of deep cycle batteries but AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) examples are considered the best and most versatile for fitment and use in off-roaders.Your choice of the best options for different scenarios/vehicle types hinges on how much power you will need to draw on at your campsite.Tourers nowadays often opt for a combination of auxiliary battery power and the use of solar panels or mats, rather than only relying on onboard batteries.Solar panels or flexible mats provide a great source of auxiliary power, but alone are no substitute for a comprehensive top-quality dual battery kit – all of these bits of equipment should be considered as parts of the power-supply puzzle and used in conjunction with each other.Also, check out a portable power pack as a handy power source, an adjunct to your main power supplies.So, how much will a dual battery setup cost? A deep-cycle battery alone can cost from $216 (for a 32AH 12V AGM deep cycle battery); and a dual-battery system is likely to set you back at least $900 (fitted) or more, depending on parts requested/used, wiring complexity, labour costs etc.Be aware that the second battery, its tray – no matter how robust it is – and the battery’s wiring and related electrical system may suffer damage due to engine bay heat, extreme temperatures, the violent repeated vibrations of outback corrugations, water, dirt or mud ingress and more.The rough nature of off-roading dictates that you should spend as much as your budget allows on the best quality gear you can find in order to enjoy your bush and beach adventures without fear of power failure.The best dual battery system for your 4x4 will be the one that suits your vehicle and your intended purpose. To find top-quality dual battery kits, visit one of Australia’s great aftermarket stores or stockists including, but not limited to, Ironman 4x4, TJM, ARB, Redarc and Piranha.

So, you’re heading on a road trip! What fun, but also… kind of a headache if you don’t have the right vehicle.

US pick-ups are all the rage in Australia and with a full-sized Toyota Tundra a fresh arrival, fans of these big utes are about to be even more spoiled for choice.

The popularity of 4X4s/4x4s/4WDs/4wds/off-roaders/whatever you want to call them has grown tremendously in the past 10 to 15 years and these vehicles regularly top national sales charts and they’re everywhere on our roads and bush tracks.

Are wheel spacers legal in Australia? No, wheel spacers are not legal in Australia unless the manufacturer of the vehicle has fitted them to the vehicle in question.