LDV Problems

Let’s start with the concept of a dealership charging for a problem that is probably a warranty claim in the first place. Warranty repairs shouldn’t cost the owner anything, so the dealership is skating on thin ice in the first place.

But secondly, this doesn’t sound like a problem at all. In fact, I’d say it’s perfectly normal behaviour. What’s happening is that the car’s computer is looking at how much fuel the vehicle has used in the immediate past, and calculating how far you can go on the fuel you have left, at that rate of consumption. When you switch from stop-start running to highway driving, your consumption per 100km falls. When the computer notices this, it recalculates how far you can go with your reduced consumption, and the estimated range on the trip-computer goes up.

Fuel range is the inverse of fuel consumption, when consumption goes down, range goes up. And since the car’s computer models the range based on your recent consumption rate, highway running will usually cause the range to creep up. Eventually the range will plateau and then begin to fall. When you hit the city, the range will begin to fall more quickly. The dealership should have been able to explain this to you rather than threatening to charge for taking a look at it.

This might sound like a long shot, but are you sure the fuse was okay? Sometimes, these delicate little fuses might look fine, but can still be blown. To make certain, change it for a new fuse anyway and see if that returns things to normal.

However, modern car components like display screens are no different to any other modern electronics (except they live in a much more hostile environment than the TV in your loungeroom). Which means, of course, they can simply die for no apparent reason. At which point, this becomes LDV’s problem as it’s a pretty straight-forward warranty issue. Take the car back to the dealership, tell them the problem and it’s their responsibility to fix as per Australian Consumer Law. LDV can choose to fix the screen or replace it, but it must be returned to fully working condition at no cost to you.

Conventional wisdom suggests that a fusible link failure is most likely to be caused by either an overloading of the circuit in question, or a short-circuit in that same circuit. The starter motor of a car (especially a modern diesel) consumes a lot of power to make it turn the engine over and that means a lot of load being placed on the electrical circuit. The fusible link is there to act as a fuse and sacrifice itself to prevent damage to the rest of the starter-motor system.

Sometimes, the fusible link can blow by chance or if there’s a momentary spike in the power entering the circuit. If the link continues to blow after being replaced, then you need to start searching for a short-circuit or another problem with the wiring.

You’re (possibly) looking for a driveline problem here. It’s probably not the engine itself as the vibration occurs when you’re slowing down (and the engine is no longer under load) but beyond that, it could be anything from a driveshaft, axle, transmission, braking system, wheel bearing, suspension or even an engine or transmission mount problem.

But the bottom line is that your vehicle should still be covered by the factory warranty, so make use of it. If you don’t get any satisfaction at dealership level, tackle LDV’s Australian customer service department. Our laws regarding vehicle warranties are plain and simple and are designed to protect consumers.

It’s often the case that the spot you see water entering the car is not where the actual leak is located. Water can take all sorts of interesting routes on the way to where you can see it, being driven by both the air passing over the car and following the odd shapes and profiles that make up the bits of a car’s body you can’t see.

But believe it or not, one of the best ways to find the source of a leak is to sit in the car while somebody on the outside trains a garden hose in specific places. As the aim of the hose moves, you might find the leak increases and decreases, helping you pin-point the source.

This cause of a water leak can sometimes be as simple as a small twig or leaf stuck in a door rubber, but it can also be the result of a damaged seal, body damage and even a replacement windscreen that has not been sealed properly.

It sounds very much like you’re on the right track in thinking that the problem is diesel finding its way into the sump and increasing the level of the sump’s contents. This is a reasonably common problem (and not limited to LDV vehicles by any means) and occurs when the vehicle attempts to force a Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration. To achieve this, the computer instructs the fuel system to inject extra fuel (diesel) into the engine to try to get everything hot enough to perform the regeneration. And sometimes, some of that extra diesel gets past the piston rings and into the sump.

The problem, of course, is that a mix of diesel and oil is not going to lubricate the engine as effectively as oil on its own. So, you’re running the risk of engine damage by having this situation continuing to occur.

If the dealer won’t play ball, go over their head and talk directly to LDV Australia’s customer service department. This is an obvious warranty issue and LDV is legally obliged to address it.

Safety gear such as seat-belt warnings don’t usually have an on-off button, as they need to operate all the time in the interests of safety. But having them go off when there’s nobody in the back seat is just annoying.

Are your kids leaving their school bags or anything else on the seat when they leave the vehicle? Sometimes a bag of groceries or a small suitcase heavy enough can make the vehicle think there’s a human backside on the seat and, if the seat-belt isn’t done up, will sound the alert. If not, you’re probably looking at a problem with the sensor that triggers the warning. Either way, the car thinks the seat is occupied when it’s not.

This problem should be covered by your new-car warranty, so let the dealer sort it out. In the meantime, you might be able to silence the warning by clipping the seat-belts into their correct buckles, even if there’s nobody in those seats.

First things first; have the car electronically scanned to see what fault codes are thrown up. From there you can make a much more accurate diagnosis of the problem. Simply replacing random sensors and other parts on a hunch is a fast way to throw money away and still be stuck with a car that doesn’t run properly.

The de-carbonising process you mention is sometimes necessary in modern turbo-diesels which, for reasons of emissions control, consume a percentage of their own exhaust gasses as well as any gas build-up inside the actual engine. And since the exhaust gasses contain soot, and the crankcase gasses contain oil, those two compounds get mixed up into a black, gooey paste that clogs the engine’s intake system. At this point it usually needs to be pulled apart and manually cleaned. If this is the case with your car, it could well be the cause of the check-engine light and the poor running.

If the oil is escaping the transfer case on your car, it has to be going somewhere. So, yes, you would expect to see some evidence of the leak where you park the car each night. The thing is the oil may not be directly under the transfer case, as it may have leaked onto a chassis rail or even a cable or brake line and be dripping on to the ground some distance from the case. That said, it might also be right under the transfer case as a big clue to what’s going on.

The costs of fixing the leak would depend on where it’s coming from and how much disassembly is required to get to it. But in reality, leaks like this are covered by your factory warranty, so really, it’s LDV’s problem, not yours.

It’s not a problem and is actually completely normal. What’s happening is that the car’s computer is detecting that the engine or transmission (or both) are hot enough that they need a little extra cooling. That’s why the electric fan comes on. It stays on for a minute or so after the engine is shut down to try to bring down temperatures a little more in anticipation that you may return to the car and restart it in the next few minutes.

It’s not that the vehicle is overheating, but modern cars are all about efficiency and thermal management is a big part of that. The fan is more likely to come on if you’ve just spent a few minutes idling at a red light or driving slowly through a car-park to your eventual parking spot. Low (or no) speeds mean there’s little to no air passing through the car’s radiator, so the fan switches on to create some airflow of its own.