Hyundai Kona Engine Problems

I can understand why the crank angle sensor was the first thing to be changed. These often start to die and the first symptom is an engine that stops after running for a while. But you’re right to be sceptical about the timing chain as there’s a theory that says if the engine runs properly at all, then the issue won’t be anything fundamental. Which is to say, if the timing chain was stretched beyond the point at which the engine could function properly, it wouldn’t function properly at all, regardless of how long it had been running.

A good workshop should be able to scan the car’s computer. If the timing chain really is stretched, then the computer should have logged this as a problem. If not, then you’re looking for something else. Of course, what that something else is the million-dollar question. Don’t rule out basic things like a dirty fuel filter which can allow fuel to flow for a while before the rubbish in it clogs the flow after a few minutes running.

That said, if the engine can’t locate the correct signal from the camshaft (which is controlled by the timing chain) it will sometimes look for a stand-in signal somewhere else on the engine, allowing it to start but not run properly. An electronic scan is definitely the way forward.

CarsGuide tested the Kona Hybrid late last year (you can check out the review and video here) and came to exactly the same conclusion: That the car was great around the city, but lacked a bit of overtaking oomph at highway speeds.

This will not be a problem for many owners who will possibly never need to overtake on a country road, but for those who do, perhaps there are better choices out there.

Your comparison with the petrol Captiva is a valid one, too. On paper, this car had plenty of urge, but the power was all stacked way up in the higher rev ranges and required some forward planning when overtaking.

Early this year, Hyundai issued a recall for some Konas built between 2020 and 2022 to deal with problems with the eight-speed dual-clutch transmission which could cause a loss of drive and, therefore, a dangerous situation on the road. So the first check would be to see if your car you're looking at is affected by that recall (a Hyundai dealer will be able to tell you by looking up the car's VIN). If the car is one of the affected ones but the recall's fixes have been applied, then you have less to worry about.

The Kona's engine problems, meanwhile, were another cause for a safety recall after it was discovered that a batch of Konas had defective piston rings which could cause early engine wear and possibly even a fire. Again, these problems were being fixed by Hyundai, but you need to check whether the example you're looking at buying was one of the affected ones and what's been done about it by the previous owner.

The Mazda CX-3 of the same era has not been without its recalls either, including one for a suspension joint that could fail, but overall, the experience of owners suggests the Mazda could be the less risky bet. Again, though, check the service and recall history of any car before handing over the money.

This is still a very new model, so there’s not a whole lot of reliability intelligence available yet. Even so, I’m surprised that such a new vehicle has such a glaring problem just a couple of weeks or so out from its delivery as a brand-new car.

The reason the car won’t start when you open the door with the manual key is that the remote should not only unlock the car, but also deactivate the immobiliser and switch on the main electrical circuits that power the Kona. If the remote isn’t unlocking the doors, then it probably isn’t turning on the main systems either, and that’s why you need to reset the battery each time. Hyundai tells me that this car actually has a conventional 12-volt battery, mounted in the conventional place (under the bonnet, just behind the headlight) that powers the functions you’re missing. If this battery has a dud cell or isn’t charging (and it’s just spent several weeks on a ship getting to Australia, remember) then the car will exhibit the symptoms you’re seeing. A trip to the dealer is in order, but your problem is definitely a warranty issue.

By the way, your car is actually not a hybrid at all. It’s a plug-in electric vehicle. A hybrid uses a combination of a petrol engine and electric motor, your car is purely electric.

The combined average is 72 L/100 km, the extra urban consumption is 5.8 L/100km, and the urban consumption is 9.7 L/100 km.

91-octane regular unleaded, and it can accept E10.