Hyundai I30 Problems

While it's true that super-low mileage can make a difference to a car's selling price, when it comes to mainstream cars like the i30, the difference may not be as much as you expect. Rare, old and collectible cars really benefit value-wise from low mileages, but a 10-year-old Hyundai really doesn't fall into any of those categories. So while it will make the car worth more, don't be surprised if it doesn't make thousands of dollars' worth of difference.

On the flip-side, many car buyers don't like cars that have travelled very low annual distances. Cars don't like sitting around, and a car with very low kilometres could have problems with dry seals and gaskets, flat-spotted tyres, and a build-up of condensation within the mechanical bits and pieces.

If I had to guess, I'd say the weight of the roof-rack and bicycles has stressed the metal of the roof to the point where it's been flexing enough to crack the sunroof frame. By the way, from what I can gather, all sunroofs fitted to Australian i30s were done at dealership level using an aftermarket sunroof. These are not Hyundai sunroofs, even though they were fitted when the car was brand-new.

Disregard the quote for $18,000, because that's nonsense. You could replace the whole sunroof (in fact, the whole car) for a fraction of that, and that would be the worst-case scenario. As for welding the cracked frame, it's potentially possible, but may not be practical. The frame forms the surface the roof slides on, so any distortion from welding could make the whole unit unworkable. Take it to a sunroof specialist and get an expert opinion, as well as a real-world repair quote.

The i30 should be fine for this sort of towing. You won't be placing too much stress on the car's mechanicals, and Hyundai rates the i30 to tow up to 1300kg. But there's a catch.

And that is that you're more likely to be limited by the trailer rather than the car itself. That's because that 1300kg limit is on the proviso that the trailer is fitted with its own brakes. Without a braked trailer, Hyundai reduces the towing limit to 600kg. The average box trailer doesn't have brakes, so that lower figure is most likely going to be your limit. Admittedly, that is still probably more than enough for what you have in mind.

This sounds like an odd question, but it’s actually not. Not all cars over the years have been fitted with two reversing lights and having just one was legally acceptable. From memory some Excels (and the early Toyota Prius in some markets and plenty of European cars) were sold here with both a single reversing light and a high-intensity fog-light set into the rear bumper. Australian drivers being unfamiliar with rear fog-lights, often left them turned on all the time, dazzling anybody following.

As well as reducing the cost-per-car, having a fog light and a reversing light that were interchangeable made building cars in both left and right-hand-drive form a little simpler (and cheaper) as the same bumper moulding could be used with the lights simply swapped side-to-side.

In any case, by 2009, the Hyundai Excel had grown a second reversing light to bring it into line with other mainstream cars being sold here. Hyundai Australia managed to dig me up a wiring diagram for the FD model Excel (2007 to 2011) which clearly shows the wiring loom to support two reversing lights.

I agree that 136,000km is not a realistic lifespan for a modern car. Especially one that has been as meticulously maintained as yours. Hyundai engines of this vintage are not without their known problems, but in my experience, Hyundai has been pretty good about replacing them when the failures have been the endemic kind.

Your first step should be to by-pass the dealership you've been dealing with and talk directly to Hyundai's customer service department. The dealership, as you've correctly identified, will be more interested in selling you another car, while Hyundai head office is more likely to be interested in keeping you as a long term customer. Ultimately, the car will need to be inspected independently to figure out what went wrong and what caused it.

By the way, if the dealership is right and the 'damage has already been done' by the time the warning light illuminates, what's the point of having a warning light in the first place? The dealership in question has just revealed itself to be ignorant at best with comments like that.

By the way, even though your car has a 2013 build date, the warranty would have started the day it was first registered. Even so, it's well and truly out of warranty, but if the problem is one of the known faults of that engine, Hyundai may offer you a pro rata deal to assist in repairs.

The hard starting and loss of power sound to me like a problem with the fuel pick-up or the fuel pump. In your Hyundai, the fuel filter is part of the pump assembly and lives in the actual fuel tank. Replacing the filter involves removing the pump from the tank, changing the filter and then replacing the whole assembly into the tank. If a hose has been crimped or an air leak introduced into this system, the pump may not be able to supply the engine with all the fuel it needs. A cold start-up is when an engine will suffer from this leak, while tight turns on a roundabout could be enough to starve the engine of fuel if the pick-up (the hose that dips into the petrol in the tank) isn’t in the right position inside the tank. The fact that these problems started when the car received a new fuel filter is a pretty good clue that something was not quite right when the car was put back together. I’d be going back to the workshop that fitted the filter, explaining the problem and giving the shop the opportunity to put things right.

The noise in your steering system is almost certainly due to a well known problem with these cars. The electrically-assisted steering system in your car uses a rubber coupling which can deteriorate over time. When this happens, a click or clunk can be heard. The solution is to have the rubber coupling replaced. Because the problem didn’t cause steering failure, Hyundai didn’t issue a recall for this, but a batch of earlier i30s (some cars built in 2007 and 2008) did have a steering coupling that could fail completely, leading to a loss of steering., These were recalled by Hyundai as part of a safety recall back in 2014.

Depending on what sort of noise the transmission is making, this sounds like a broken or worn out clutch. Without a properly functioning clutch, gears can be extremely difficult to select and can also cause horrible graunching, grinding noises when trying to select any gear, but particularly reverse.

If this is, indeed, the problem, you could be looking at thousands of dollars to remove the transmission, replace the clutch and reassemble the driveline. You might even find that the engine's flywheel is also beyond saving and needs replacing, too.

On the other hand, the lazy clutch could be a simple case of a leaking or worn clutch slave or master cylinder or even a poorly adjusted clutch system which is allowing the clutch to disobey what the clutch pedal is telling it to do. If that's the case, the fix could be quite simple and relatively cheap.

The point is that you need to know what the problem is before handing over the money, because the value of the same car with either problem will be vastly different. Perhaps finding a car with a properly working clutch and driveline is a better option.

Any smoke from the exhaust of a car suggests there’s something wrong with the fuel system or that there’s wear inside the engine. I’m leaning towards the fuel system in this case, though, as a cold-start is when the fuelling system is under the greatest stress.

To make a cold engine run properly, the engine’s fuel-air ratio has to be altered (more fuel and less air than when the engine is up to temperature). To know how much extra fuel, the engine has a range of sensors that measure the temperature of the air going into the engine, the temperature of the engine itself, the flow of air, as well as sensors that sniff what’s coming out of the tailpipe to make sure the mixture is just right. If any of these sensors begin to send false information to the engine’s computer, the mixture can be incorrect and the rough running, poor idling and visible smoke can be the results.

Even something as simple as the stepper-motor, which controls the idle speed of the car, can be the cause of rough idling, but that’s less likely to contribute to gales of smoke from the exhaust. The best advice is to have the car scanned and see if the computer has logged any faults. Smoke from the engine might also warrant a compression test of the engine’s cylinders, too. From there, you can make a more informed diagnosis and replace only the faulty parts.

Your numbers are correct, including the maximum tow-ball weight of 75kg. With that in mind, provided you don’t load the camper-trailer beyond the 1300kg mark, and you distribute that load properly to keep the two-ball weight under 75kg, you should be safe and legal to proceed.

Beyond keeping the mass within legal limits, the other hurdle you might face is the way the i30’s two-litre petrol engine produces its performance. There’s nothing wrong with the 120kW of peak power, but the engine’s peak torque is an unexceptional 203Nm and is produced at a high 4700rpm. That means you might find yourself working the engine pretty hard to maintain highway speeds.

The sister car to yours, the i30 with the 1.6-litre turbo-diesel might be a better choice for towing with less peak power but much more torque (300Nm, from as low as 1750rpm) making it a more relaxed performer and tower.

The popular MG3 is the model you’re referring to and you’re right; it hasn’t been locally crash-tested. But it does lack some important safety gear. Enough, we reckon, to knock it off your short-list. The MG lacks, for instance, important driver aids such as autonomous emergency braking, blind-spot monitoring and lane-keeping assistance, nor can these features be had by spending more on a fancier version.

Which leaves us with your other two choices, the Hyundai i30 and Kia Rio. Even then, you’ll need to option up beyond the base-model to get (some of) those safety features, but these are not expensive cars to begin with, so the jump might not be as bad as you think.

The other car to consider would be the SP Pure version of the Mazda 2. At $23,690, it’s not over-priced but it does have low-speed (up to 30km/h) autonomous emergency braking, blind-spot monitoring and lane-departure warning as well as rear cross-traffic alert.

And a manual transmission? The MG 3 no longer offers one, both the Hyundai i30 and the Kia Rio are available with a six-speed manual option. The Mazda 2 Pure SP is automatic only, but you can get a six-speed manual on the base-model Mazda 2.

I agree that youngsters taught to drive a manual car tend to be better drivers, but that’s not a universally held view these days. And the fact is that most young drivers will never be presented with a clutch pedal in the future, raising the question of why learn in the first place? The reality is that learning to drive a manual car gives you extra mechanical awareness and extra ability to multi-task behind the wheel.