Holden Problems

This is a very contentious issue and occurs when the car decides it’s in mortal danger if it’s driven any farther. In many cases a car will go into limp-home mode with reduced power to get you home without further damage, but in the Captiva’s case, it can go one step beyond limp-home mode and simply shut itself down, lock the driver out of the equation and refuse all attempts at being moved. This has severe ramifications if it does so on a level crossing, for instance.

In any case, this condition is usually triggered by a serious fault to do with the engine and can include a lack of oil or a severe overheating condition. When things cool down after a while, the car will sometimes restart, but in the meantime, it’s not going anywhere. The suspicion is that you have a major mechanical problem on your hands, and continuing to drive the car (when it decides to co-operate) puts you in danger of a catastrophic driveline failure.

Diagnosing starting faults often requires a mechanic familiar with a particular make and model who will know where to start looking, as there are literally hundreds of causes for behaviour like this. An auto electrician can also be your best friend at a time like this.

However, as a very rough guide, the problem could be to do with something in the engine bay getting hot and not allowing the engine to restart. The symptoms bear this out; no hot start, but play resumes once things have been allowed to cool over time. Suspicions would be drawn to the ignition system, and a dodgy spark plug, distributor, ignition lead or coil-pack can easily create this sort of problem. In fact, the coil-packs on your car would be a very good place to start looking, as they have a reputation for cracking and putting a stop to things, especially when they’re hot.

Holden’s factory maintenance schedule for the 1.8-litre Trax suggests a 150,000km (or 10 years, whichever comes first) timing belt change interval. Don’t forget to change the relevant tensioners and belt idlers at the same time. Many owners also elect to replace the water pump at the same time while this area of the engine is apart for the timing belt change.

The turbocharged 1.4-litre version of the Trax used a timing chain rather than a timing belt. This chain should be good for the life of the vehicle.

This sounds like a problem with the rear or centre differential not working properly. When a car turns a corner, the various wheels must turn at different speeds (because they travel through different arcs). The differentials use a complex series of gears allow this to happen, but if they’re not all working properly, there’s a chance that the individual wheels are not able to turn at the correct speed. When that happens, the tyres have to skip and spin. Either that, or something like an axle or drive-shaft will snap.

The rear differential allows the two rear wheels to turn at different speeds, while the centre differential (which an all-wheel-drive car has) allows the front and rear wheels to turn at different speeds and maintain harmony. Being all-wheel-drive, your Captiva also has a front differential, but since you’re feeling the rear wheels skipping and skating, the front differential is probably not the cause. Which leaves the rear or centre differential.

Differentials can fail for a variety of reasons, including excess heat build-up or a lack of the correct type of lubricating oil. It’s entirely possible a seal has failed, allowing the oil out and letting the differential run dry to the point where it’s now damaged. But don’t ignore the simple things like a biding rear brake or poorly adjusted park-brake.

There’s no hard and fast rule on this stuff, and the lifespan of a car will depend heavily on how it’s been serviced. Any car that has been ignored and abused will have a shorter run than the same make and model that has been meticulously maintained and serviced. And this difference can literally be hundreds of thousands of kilometres.

However, it’s also worth keeping in mind that this model Barina was a Daewoo by any other name (and not a particularly good one, at that) and was designed and engineered as such. Even a well maintained example is probably going to be getting pretty long in the tooth by the time 200,000km have been clocked up. Common faults include dramas with the engine and transmission and many owners simply find that the cost of repairs is more than the value of the vehicle itself. At which point they get scrapped and recycled.

The first thing to do is find the owner’s manual and any paperwork that came with the car when it was brand new. Many dealerships wrote the security code on a business card that was slipped into the owner’s folder, others sometimes write the code somewhere on one of the manual’s pages. Either of which kind of defeats the purpose of a secret code, but it was common practice.

If that doesn’t pay off, you may have to remove the radio from the dashboard, record the unit’s serial number and contact either Holden or the stereo’s manufacturer (I think Blaupunkt, in this case) to see if it has records of what security code went with what radio.

Finally, there’s another long-shot that might pay off. Your car has an individual VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) which should be recorded on a metal plate at the edge of the windscreen, under the glass. The last four digits of this VIN are often the security code for the radio fitted at the factory. It doesn’t work on every make and model, but it’s free and worth a shot.

Fault code P0014 is, indeed, a problem with the engine’s camshaft timing. It’s also a very common one on these late-model V6 Holdens. Your engine doesn’t have a timing belt, instead using a timing chain which, theoretically, should be good for the life of the car. Unfortunately, in this V6 engine, the timing chain was under-engineered and many owners have found out the hard way that the timing chain needs replacement at relatively low mileages.

The fault code shows up when the car’s computer can’t make sense of the relationship between the engine’s crankshaft and camshafts. That’s because when the timing chain stretches, that relationship varies and the engine’s valves are no longer opening and closing precisely when they should. At that point, the computer throws its hands in the air and triggers the fault code and check-engine light.

The only real fix is to replace the timing chains. The cost will vary depending on what else needs to be done and who carries out the work, but even at its cheapest, this job could easily run into the $2000 to $3000 region. Industry wisdom also suggests that you also replace the timing chain guide and oil pump at the same time.

As part of a car’s exhaust system, a catalytic converter contains some pretty exotic metals that help convert the engine’s exhaust gasses to less harmful chemicals. It’s pretty high-end chemistry, but the converter’s job is to make the overall exhaust emissions less harmful to people and the environment.

Several things can go wrong with a catalytic converter that can stop it doing this job, and that’s when the dashboard light will flash on, alerting you to the fact that the converter needs attention.

Sometimes, the converter’s internal structure (the matrix) will collapse, at which point the only solution is to replace the unit. But sometimes, the matrix simply gets clogged by soot and other contaminants from the engine’s combustion process. In the case of the latter, you can remove the converter and manually clean it or, add a chemical to the car’s fuel tank that will be burnt in the engine, pass through the converter and hopefully clean it.

However, the jury is still out on whether using either method to clean a catalytic converter is worth the time and effort. Many cleaning attempts have led to the dashboard light flickering back on within minutes of the cleaning taking place. Perhaps the additive method is worth a try, but in a high percentage of cases, converter replacement is the only fix. So why not just remove the converter? Because it’s illegal to tamper with a car’s emissions control devices and there are big fines for those who do so. Also, a catalytic-converter warning light on the dashboard is actually a roadworthy item.

I’ll assume by 'in' you mean the fan that blows climate-controlled air into the cabin and not the fan that cools the radiator under the bonnet. Like anything else powered by an electric motor, these should be almost silent, although the sound of the actual air rushing through the trunking (heater plumbing) and out through the vents can usually be heard when the fan is running full blast.

The most common causes for this noise to change are a failed bearing in the motor which will also potentially affect its running speed, or something foreign caught in the fan’s blades (leaves and dross from parking under trees is a common cause of this).

Cleaning out the fan’s trunking and/or replacing the fan is the solution, but in some cases, this involves fairly major disassembly of the car’s dashboard and a huge labour bill.

The official oil recommendation for this vehicle is a fully synthetic 5W30 grade oil. If the engine is in good condition, this is the best oil to use. The X-factor in all of this, of course, is the relatively high mileage your car has covered. As engines wear, and perhaps begin to consume a bit more oil between oil-changes, the conventional wisdom has been to use a slightly thicker oil. A 10W40 would be the logical choice here.

But the turbocharged Cruze engine, like a lot of modern engines, uses some pretty fine oilways that may not be compatible with the thicker 10W40. Examples of this include the oilways that lubricate the turbocharger’s bearing and also the ones that allow the variable valve timing to operate properly. Unless the engine is showing real signs of wear, sticking with the 5W30 oil is definitely the best advice.