Holden Problems

The black panels you refer to are nothing more than a styling touch. The idea is to make the panels black so they look like they’re part of the rear window, therefore appearing to make the window wider and the whole car wider and lower. Does it work on a Captiva? Not really.

A manual car that jumps out of gear is usually a case of a worn gearbox. As the internals and gear selectors wear over time, they become loose, allowing the vehicle to jump into neutral.

The first check would be to see that the external linkage to the gearbox (a cable in the Barina’s case) is correctly adjusted and not about to fall apart. If that’s the case, you might find that the selector is not fully engaging each gear, and that’s why it’s jumping out of that gear. But beyond that, the problem is likely to be caused by wear inside the mechanical bits of the transmission.

The old M20 four-speed transmission wasn’t exactly a sophisticated piece of equipment, but it was a pretty tough thing. In any case, this sounds more like a clutch problem. Wear or damage in the clutch can cause all sorts of difficult shifting, and the big clue here is that it will do so only when the engine is running, not when it’s switched off.

You may find it’s a case of poorly adjusted shift linkages or a damaged shifter, but all the signs point to a broken clutch.

I think you’re on the right track by concentrating on the information being conveyed by the crank-angle sensor. But the problem is more likely to be a stretched timing chain rather than a dud sensor. The V6 engine in your Colorado is notorious for this problem and, when it happens, it throws the camshafts out of synch with the crankshaft. When the crank-angle sensor and the camshaft-angle sensor can’t agree that the positions of the crankshaft and camshafts relative to each other are correct, the problems start.

This lack of synchronisation is one of the things the crank-angle sensor is paid to look for and why it’s limiting engine speed or not allowing the engine to start at all. By clearing the fault code and disconnecting the crank-angle sensor, you’re stopping the error information being sent to the ECU and the ute starts first time (it’s probably taking a camshaft-angle reference when it can’t find the crank-angle information).

These little LED info-screens have been part of dashboards for years now, and they’re a known problem in many makes and models. There are specialist repairers who can either fix the screen you have or remove the dud one and fit a new one. Making sure the odometer still reads to car’s correct mileage is the trick.

Actually, that’s an important point, because a correctly working odometer is a roadworthy item. And one that flashes on and off randomly is definitely not working properly and is, therefore, making the car technically unroadworthy.

The alarm you’re seeing is the car’s way of telling you that it’s been working hard and needs attention sooner rather than later. The on-board computer will be monitoring all sorts of parameters including the engine oil level and condition and the state of the air-filter element. Either of those things (and a large number of others) could be the trigger for the alarm you’re seeing. But it could also be due to the transmission being heated to a point where the computer says enough, or even an actual problem somewhere in the driveline such as a low coolant level.

The best thing to do is have the vehicle serviced as per its own request. The workshop might be able to tell you the cause of the alarm, but either way, maintenance is due. Towing a caravan places a lot of extra stress on the engine and transmission, while hot and dusty conditions also take their mechanical toll.

You really can’t afford to take any chances with a car’s steering system. The thought of this crucial system failing even at low speeds doesn’t bear thinking about, so if there’s any play or looseness in the system, it needs to be diagnosed and fixed properly with new parts if necessary.

Meantime, Loctite and other thread-locking products are designed to stop fasteners coming loose. These products are not designed to take up slack in worn parts and shouldn’t be used that way. Even if the thread-locker stops the fastening nut coming loose, it won’t do anything about the slack in the joint you’ve already noted.

This shouldn’t be a difficult job and it’s a good task to ease yourself into maintaining your own vehicle. The simplest way to do this is to replace the entire blade and spine assembly. This will cost more than replacing just the rubber blade, but is very easy with just one catch to unclip (where the blade pivots on the wiper arm) before the whole assembly can be removed and replaced. You can google tutorial videos on this take which take you through the whole process. It should take only a couple of minutes.

If you’re really stumped by this, some parts stores offer a free fitting service for things like wiper blades. You may have to buy a new pair of blades to access this service, however. But if you watch the process and take note of how it works, you’ll be able to change your own blades in the future.

Any time a vehicle with the DOHC Holden V6 is mentioned as having a starting problem or check-engine light illuminated, mechanics will often go straight to the engine’s timing chain to check its wear. That’s because this engine is notorious for such antics and, when they occur, it can often mean poor starting and the dreaded check-engine light.

However, in this case, the engine in question was an Isuzu-designed unit that doesn’t seem to have the same rash of timing chain problems. Which means you need to go back to basics and have the vehicle scanned to see if the onboard computer has logged the root cause of any problems.

The fact that the check engine light is flickering and the starting problem is an intermittent one could mean anything, but a good place to start checking would be the various earthing points around the vehicle. Bad earths are a common cause for this sort of problem.

The condition of the car’s battery is also a smart place to begin investigations. A lack of power in the battery is enough to make a lot of electronically fuel-injected vehicles throw in the towel on a random basis.

First things first: If you can smell coolant when the engine is warmed up (or any other time) then you have a leak somewhere. Coolant leaks can be hard to spot as they are not always large and are often located in weird, hard to see places. But if you can smell it, it’s escaping the cooling system somewhere and you need to locate it and fix it.

If you have a slow leak, it’s possible you could drive for weeks without the car overheating, but eventually the engine will start to notice the low coolant level and run hotter as a result. Get it fixed now before you damage the engine. You should be fine to use a bit of tap-water (which will dilute the coolant in the rest of the system) until the leak is found, but don’t leave tap-water (or an incorrect or diluted mixture of water and coolant) in the radiator for the long term.

As for the brakes, the problem does, indeed, sound like warped rotors. Sometimes these can be machined back to true, but often they need to be replaced. Either way, replacing the brake pads at the same time is best practice. Worn pads on new rotors can make those nice, new rotors wear faster than they should.