Ford Problems

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Used Ford Falcon review: 1992-2000
By Graham Smith · 21 Oct 2003
Before the hot XR6 was unleashed in 1992, fast Fords were V8-powered. So the six-cylinder sports sedan came as a surprise to everyone. The XR6 was a bent-eight beater, but it was much more than that.  It was not only fast, it also handled beautifully and was comfortable.Had we known then what we later found out about Tickford, now called Ford Performance Vehicles, it wouldn't have been such a surprise.  The EBII XR6 was the first glimpse of Tickford's ability to produce a refined sporting sedan that did everything well.  It had often been the case with Aussie-built muscle cars that power was everything.That relentless pursuit often came at the cost of handling, ride and comfort, but Tickford brought a European approach which balanced power and road manners.  Another surprise came in the styling, which was neat and attractive, without being look-at-me in the way of most other muscle cars.  But if the XR6 was rather reserved in appearance terms, there was nothing reserved about it when it hit the road.THE XR6 was based on the EBII Falcon S, a sportier version of the family four-door sedan.  The engine was the Falcon 4.0-litre single-overhead cam unit, an effective but rather harsh and lumbering lump. But it had come under the spell of the engineers at Tickford Vehicle Engineering, Ford's performance partners who started working with the men from Broadmeadows in 1991.By the time Tickford was finished tinkering with the Falcon's head, cam, valves, valve springs, exhaust system and electronics, the fuel-injected six was slamming out a massive 161kW at 4600 revs and 366Nm at 3650 revs. And all of that while running on regular unleaded.It was enough to have the 1529kg sedan sprinting to 100km/h in 7.5sec. The standing 400m sprint was covered in 15.5sec and it had a top speed of 223km/h.They were numbers that had the V8 brigade looking back in horror, but they didn't tell the whole story, which was that the XR6 had plenty of low-end and mid-range punch which made it very driveable.Gearbox choices were a five-speed manual and a four-speed auto which delivered the power to the live axle LSD rear end running a low 3.45-ratio axle which helped it jump out of corners.Back in 1992 Ford was committed to a live rear axle, but Tickford's engineers managed to tame it quite effectively. The XR6 rode lower and had a package of gas shocks, stiffer springs, larger anti-roll bars front and rear which, coupled with revised front-end settings, made the steering precise and responsive and brought an assured balance to the handling.Despite still having 3.1 turns lock-to-lock, the Falcon could be pointed at corners with confidence it would hold its line right through to the exit. There was still some evidence of the roll oversteer associated with the Ford rear end, but it would quickly settle under power.To match the go power, the XR6 was equipped with decent disc brakes, which worked in tandem with ABS. The XR6's rolling stock consisted of 15-inch five-spoke alloy wheels and 205/65R15 Michelin tyres. It stood out from the Falcon crowd with body-coloured bumpers and mirrors, red rub strip inserts and a small rear wing.Inside there were reshaped sports front seats which were more supportive and comfortable than the regular Falcon ones. They had velour facings, were highlighted with red piping, and there was also a leather-trimmed Momo sports steering wheel and gear shift knob.ALL alloy-headed Falcon sixes have a problem with head gaskets. It's not unusual to blow them at any time, but they seem to be more prone to it from about 80,000km onwards.Cylinder head reco experts say there is a problem with coolant circulation, which leads to a steam pocket at the rear of the head which can then lead to gasket failure and cracking of the head.Some even relieve the problem by tapping into the head and allowing the coolant to flow from the problem area through an external pipe.  Suspension bushes can be a problem at higher mileage, and require replacement to restore the XR6's renowned handling.Falcon electrics can also be troublesome. Body control modules are a headache and replacements are expensive, so check the system's operation as thoroughly as you can.  Engine oil leaks are also a common problem. Look at the front cover and power steering pump.MARK Harris bought his white XR6 new in 1993 and has driven it sparingly. It has just 51,000km on the odometer and is driven only on weekends, when he enjoys it very much.  Dion Coughlan bought his three years ago when it had done 175,000km. He has added another 80,000km, and says he drives it hard.It has had a near-death experience when it was hit by a bus. Despite a few rattles, Dion says it still performs well. Apart from minor things such as a fan belt, the only things Dion has had to replace are the front suspension bushes.
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Divide and conquer
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 19 Dec 2003

You can work it out simply by calculating the amount of additive you need to add per litre of fuel. The instructions on the packaging will tell you how much to add per tankful, and you know how many litres your tank holds (if not check your owner's manual, which will contain the capacity of the tank), so divide the amount of additive by the tank capacity in litres and then multiply that by the number of litres you usually buy. Add that amount and you should be OK. Add a little more for safety if you like.

Blow out the carbon
Answered by CarsGuide team · 02 Jan 2004

Carbon build-up in the combustion chamber is normal and can effectively reduce the size of the chamber and increase the compression ratio, which can then lead to a pinging noise. The old way to deal with it was to blow the carbon out by giving the car a long run at high speed. You would then usually see a cloud of brownish smoke from the exhaust. The other way to de-coke the heads is to remove them and clean the carbon out by hand. I'm guessing your mechanic hasn't suggested that because it is an expensive option.

Should I stick to the set tyre pressure?
Answered by Graham Smith · 25 Sep 2003

It has been generally held that running slightly higher tyre pressures than those recommended by the carmakers improves braking, handling and fuel consumption, while reducing ride comfort. There is some truth in all of that, but remember that whatever pressure you settle on it will be a compromise, and that is the same compromise that carmakers wrestle with in determining their recommendations. Instructors at high-performance driving schools strongly advocate higher tyre pressures for the handling benefits they deliver, and that works for a racetrack environment, but it's not optimum for a road environment where your tyres have to perform several important functions. The belief in the tyre business now is that drivers should follow the carmakers' recommendations for the best all-round tyre performance.

Smoking hot wagon
Answered by Graham Smith · 09 Oct 2003

Are you sure the temperature gauge is working correctly? It would be worthwhile making sure it is so you can rely on the reading you're seeing. Assuming it is working correctly, check the radiator and overflow reservoir and make sure they are filled to the correct level. Check the owner's manual for your car and you will find the correct level for the fluid in the reservoir when the engine is cold. Do not fill beyond that level. When the engine warms, the coolant in the system heats up and expands and some coolant will flow through to the reservoir. You'll find a maximum fluid level marked on the reservoir and the coolant should not exceed that when the engine is hot. That coolant will be drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools again.

Bathurst specials
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 28 Nov 2003

There's virtually no similarity between the Bathurst racers and the road cars you and I buy from Ford or Holden, apart from a vaguely similar appearance. The engines are purpose-built 5.0-litre V8s. Neither Ford nor Holden have a production 5.0-litre V8 on sale. The gearboxes are purpose-built for racing and the suspensions are special, as are the brakes, wheels and tyres. The bodies may look like the production equivalent, but they're specially built, incorporating roll cages and other reinforcements. And get this: the Commodores now run a Falcon-type wishbone front suspension instead of the MacPherson strut the production cars run. The Commodore racers have long-run Ford nine-inch diffs as well.

Ford Falcon: Loud transmission
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 26 Dec 2003

Generally the Falcon auto gives little trouble. Geoff Clay, of CPA Automatics, says irregular servicing can result in a blocked filter, which can then cause the pump to work harder to get the fluid through which often results in a noise like you describe. It's not possible to say the Falcon is better than the Commodore, or vice versa, as each has strengths and weaknesses. I would say the build quality of both is about the same, the performance of the Falcon is slightly better, basically because its six-cylinder engine is marginally larger, but the Commodore has lower fuel consumption.

Ford Falcon 1989: What's a good replacement car?
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 28 Nov 2003

Your Falcon would have tested about 13 litres/ 100km when new. For comparison purposes, the Commodore V6 would return about 11.5 litres/100km, the 3.5-litre V6 Magna about 10.5 and the Camry closer to 13. Clearly, on that basis the Magna is the car for you.

Ford Escape 2003: Excessive wind noise
Answered by Graham Smith · 14 Nov 2003

Without driving your car it's impossible to provide an answer, particularly when noise is such a subjective thing. It's rare to find objectionable wind noise in a car today so I would suspect that something is wrong with yours. Perhaps you could drive another Escape -- perhaps take a demo for a test drive -- and compare it to yours.

Bumper drop
Answered by Carsguide.com.au · 05 Dec 2003

I'd venture to say you don't see many later Falcons with bumpers hanging loose like you do with the older ones. Basically, it's the improvement in the production of the plastic parts. There are many things that have contributed to the improvements, not the least being better mountings. Put it down to progress.

Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.
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