Ask The Guide

Start with the basics. Is the coolant level correct (and the radiator overflow tank intact)? Are the fan belts that drive the water pump tight and not slipping? Is the electric fan turning on? Is the second electric fan turning on with the air conditioning? Are the radiator hoses in good condition and not collapsing when you rev the engine? Are the car’s brakes dragging and causing the engine to work harder than it should? Is the radiator clean and flowing properly? Is the radiator cap holding the correct pressure? Is there a build-up of mud, bugs and grass on the radiator’s surface? All these things can lead to overheating.

If all that checks out, you might have to dig a bit deeper, including a check of whether the water pump is pulling its weight (and not worn internally) whether the thermostat is operating correctly and even a test to see whether the head gasket has failed. Ford’s Ranger engines have also ben known to experience failures of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve’s cooler which is part of the overall cooling system. The 2.2-litre and 3.2-litre Ranger engines seem more susceptible to this, but it shouldn’t be automatically ruled out on the 2.0-litre engine.

The fact that all these features have gone AWOL all at once suggests the display unit itself might be the problem. That, or perhaps a fuse that controls the circuit the display draws its power from. If it was one function on its own, then you’d suspect a sensor for that system might be the problem, but when they all disappear at once, the digital readout unit would be the place to start checking.

However, don’t forget that your car has a five-year factory warranty, and this is most definitely a problem that – on the surface – appears as though it would be covered by the Mitsubishi warranty. Even if you bought the vehicle second-hand, provided the car has been serviced correctly, the warranty should still apply regardless of how many times the car changes hands.

You could try for a computer reset by disconnecting the battery overnight, but make this Mitsubishi’s problem, not yours.

There are a few possibilities here. The first is that there’s been a failure of one of the battery cables that connects the battery to the car. If one is loose, broken or badly corroded so that it won’t let current to flow, then it won’t matter how many jump starters you connect, the thing will not fire.

A second possibility is that there’s something gone wrong with the key fob or immobiliser that isn’t allowing the car’s electrical systems to fire up. Even then, however, you’d perhaps expect to get a red light on the dashboard when you hooked up the jump battery.

What about the jump starter pack you’re using. Is it fully charged? Is it still working (some of these units die suddenly when you need them the most)? Don’t forget that some battery terminals have a built-in circuit-breaker that acts as a fuse if the car’s electrical system experiences a power spike. These circuit-breakers can be replaced or sometimes reset to get the volts flowing again.

But possibly more likely that any of those scenarios is a battery that has literally fallen apart internally. A battery is a series of cells and, if one cell collapses or fails, the battery effectively stops being a battery as the missing cell acts as a circuit-breaker. At which point, you can hook up the world’s biggest jump pack or jump battery and nothing will happen. Change the battery for a borrowed one and see if things improve.

I’d be interested to know what makes you think the dealer who delivered your brand-new car has changed the tyres. Were they showing signs of wear? Did they make the car handle or ride strangely? Did they just not look 'right’?

I can’t imagine any dealership would be stupid enough to fit partly worn tyres on a brand-new car. You bought a new car, it should come with new tyres. Simple as that, and anything else is pretty shifty to say the least. The dealer might have switched to another set of brand-new tyres if one or more of the originals was damaged, but that’s not what you’ve suggested here. I’d definitely be taking it up with Nissan Australia’s customer service division as selling a brand-new car with second-hand tyres just seems crazy. Not to mention legally questionable.

If it’s simply the case that the tyres’ tread didn’t look brand-new, then the 26km it’s already covered could explain that by taking the shine off the tread. That, and the fact that the sidewalls were probably still very shiny (dealerships love tyre-shine products) could make the treads look worn when they really weren’t.

The faulty tyre-pressure monitoring system is a separate issue and can be fixed by replacing the dud parts. This is a simple warranty claim, and even though tyres are generally not covered in a new-car warranty, selling a brand-new car without brand-new tyres is a new one for me. If it really did happen, you’d be well within your rights to demand brand-new tyres.

The first thing to check is the level of the transmission fluid. If this is incorrect, it can cause all sorts of drive and shifting problems. Also, how long since this vehicle had its automatic transmission serviced? We tend to forget that these hard working components benefit from a periodic change of filter and fluid and a general check-up to make sure there’s nothing that needs adjusting inside the gearbox.

The reason the transmission begins to feel better after it’s warmed up is possibly to do with the temperature of the fluid and the friction surfaces inside the transmission. When the gearbox and fluid are cold, the fluid is thicker (and harder to pump) and can’t lubricate or operate the transmission as effectively. Even so, the gearbox should not shift harshly even when it’s cold. When it does, it’s trying to tell you something.

The C8 Corvette (current model) is a fabulous piece of kit. It gives more or less supercar performance and handling for less than half the price of many established supercars, which makes it one of the all-time great motoring bargains.

As far as reliability goes, that will depend on the car’s history and whether it’s been maintained correctly. I’d also be a bit leery of car that has seen its share of track use (something the Corvette is otherwise very good at thanks to its performance envelope).

The 6.2-litre engine is a very well known quantity and is generally regarded as bulletproof. The only real question mark lies over the dual-clutch transmission, and some owners overseas have reported electronic and oil leak problems with the Corvette’s transmission. It’s worth mentioning, though, that our conditions don’t always match those of other countries, but the small number of Australian-delivered C8 Corvettes makes it hard to know how widespread these problems are.

Would I own one? In a heartbeat.

The check-engine light on any modern, fuel-injected car is there to let you know there’s something amiss with how something within the driveline is working. However, precisely what that thing is could be one (or more) of about a thousand things. The absolute best advice is to take the car to a workshop and have it electronically scanned. The onboard computer (which is what triggers the check-engine light) should have recorded what was at fault and should then be able to tell the workshop’s computer where to start looking.

Until you have this scan performed, you won’t have a clue what the problem is, and the causes could be anything from a dud oxygen sensor, to a stretched timing chain, and a dead spark plug wire to a blocked fuel-injector.

To stay within your budget, any A4 wagon you’re likely to find will be getting on for around 15 years old. A4s from this era weren’t bad cars (they were actually great to drive) but the old expression that there’s no such thing as a cheap, second-hand European car has its roots in the truth.

The fact is, an A4 of any sort will be more expensive to repair and maintain than many, say, Japanese or South Korean cars of a similar size. This isn’t Audi-bashing, it’s just a fact; the Audi is a more complex design and European car parts are just generally more expensive to buy (blame exchange rates).

None of this is to suggest that an A4 can’t be bought and run on a budget, but only to a certain extent. At which point, skipping vital maintenance might seem like a good financial decision but is most certainly not. A complex machine like the Audi is also probably not the best car on which to begin learning about maintenance, if that’s on your son’s agenda.

The CX-5 is a well regarded vehicle in the trade with a good reputation for going the distance and remaining reliable. However, that’s a lot of kilometres for any vehicle.

Which means, you must approach this one purely on its individual merits. That starts with the service history. Unless you can find a complete, detailed record that proves the car has been absolutely maintained correctly, you could be taking a huge punt. You’d also want to learn as much as you can about who owned it and how it was driven. For instance, 300,000km of gentle highway running is a lot different to the same distance in city traffic or towing a trailer around.

Even then, it would want to be really cheap as you might easily find it’s getting very close to the end of its useful life. That said, a well maintained, carefully driven CX-5 can cover this sort of mileage, so maybe this one has some life left in it. Maybe.

When an engine blows thick white (or bluish-white) smoke, it’s often a sign of internal engine wear. Some Hyundai engines have had problems with major engine components developing premature wear and causing similar problems to the ones you’ve experienced. But some Hyundai engines of this era also suffered problems with the EGR valve (exhaust gas regulation, part of the emissions control system) and that could lead to similar problems.

The best advice is to have the vehicle inspected for internal wear or any other problems that could be causing the smoking under load situation. This is pretty back to basics stuff and would include a compression test and leak-down test and should be well within the capabilities of any decent workshop. From there, you can make a more informed decision on whether to spend the money to have the car fixed, or cut your losses and move on.

It's also worth mentioning that Hyundai has been very pro-active in helping out owners who have experienced premature engine-wear problems, but the age of your car plays against this. It would be worth contacting Hyundai’s customer service division, however.