Ask The Guide

There are literally hundreds of reasons for a modern car to simply refuse to start. However, there’s one way to perhaps tell if the starter motor is the problem or not: When you turn the key, does the engine crank over? If it does, regardless of whether it starts or not, then the starter motor would appear to be fine.

If the engine doesn’t crank, the starter motor might still be okay, but you might have a flat battery or an electrical problem. Even a problem with the automatic gear selector (in the switch that that prevents the engine being started in gear) can cause a no-crank situation even though the starter motor itself is fine.

A good mechanic should be able to run a few tests and figure out pretty quickly what’s going on and what’s wrong. They will check the fuel system, ignition system and, of course, the starting system, and work it out from there.

It somewhat depends on which model Koleos we’re talking about. For some strange reason, both the two-wheel-drive and all-wheel-drive versions of the Koleos have the same towing capacity. Even stranger is the fact that the much torquier turbo-diesel version of the 2018 Renault has a lower towing limit than the petrol-engined version with its peakier powerplant.

So, on that basis, the turbo-diesel Koleos has a 1650kg braked trailer towing limit. Which neatly rules it out. The petrol version meanwhile, can legally tow 2000kg so theoretically, you could use it to tow an 1800kg caravan. In reality, though, the petrol Koleos won’t do so effortlessly or (as you’ve described it) easily. In fact, it’ll be just about at the limit in terms of its performance and braking and the CVT transmission will really be earning its keep on hills. To be honest, there are better choices for this type of use.

That’s a crazy set of circumstances, but it wouldn’t be the first time an apparently unrelated component has thrown another into disarray. On the surface, there’s no way the climate control or headlights could affect the way a transmission works, but here we are…

The most likely explanation is that the electrical gear that’s locking the transmission into third gear is somehow affecting the transmission’s speed sensor that tells the computer the vehicle is travelling fast enough to select fourth (top) gear. The body computer could be the culprit, but there could also be a problem with the car’s wiring loom that is creating this havoc. A poor earth could also be causing the problem and is a more common cause of transmission problems than many people imagine.

Even though this model Camry has an official combined fuel consumption figure of 7.9 litres per 100km, the exact number of kilometres you get from each tank of fuel will depend hugely on how and where you drive the car. If your driving is all around the city and suburbs, you might average, say, nine litres per 100km. If it’s all freeway work, then that figure may tumble to as low as seven litres per 100km. Drive the car really gently and you might even get that figure to drop into the sixes.

In any case, the (higher) city figure means the Camry’s 70-litre fuel tank should take you around 750km before you need to fill up. On the highway, meantime, the same 70 litres should carry you almost 1000km before you need to start looking for a petrol station. In reality, of course, the only direction with such projections is down, and every cold start, traffic jam and headwind will take kilometres off those figures.

According to the information I have, the final drive ratio on this vehicle was 4.3:1. That means, for every revolution made by the wheels, the driveshaft (which links the transmission to those wheels) has to turn 4.3 times.

The best advice here is to disconnect the battery and contact the dealership. Any time there’s odd electrical behaviour combined with a burning smell, there’s a decent chance you have an electrical short-circuit on your hands. And that can easily lead to a fire that could destroy the car and anything near it.

By disconnecting the battery, you’re removing the power source that is making something hot enough to produce the burning smell. The constant beeping, meanwhile could be a symptom of the same thing as the shorted or damaged wiring allows the warning beeper to continue blaring away even though the ignition is turned off.

Holden’s own service schedule for this model Captiva doesn’t specify a change interval for the differential oil. Instead, it recommends the oil be changed when required according to how the car is behaving. Which would suggest that your car is, indeed, ready for new differential oil.

As far as the scan goes, be sure not to confuse a sticking or non-engaging rear differential with the same behaviour from the centre differential. These are both technically differentials, but have vastly different roles to play. In the case of an electronically operated differential, the clutches can sometimes be replaced separately, but in any case, you need to go deep inside the differential, so while your mechanic is in there, have them check out the whole unit.

A car can stop in its tracks for hundreds of reasons, but in a car like yours, first suspicions would be either the fuel pump or something like the crank-angle sensor. If the problem had been a clogged fuel filter or a dud spark plug, the problem would probably have made the engine run poorly, but not stopped it dead in an instant.

Electric fuel pumps don’t last forever and, when they die, they die quickly and without notice. Same goes for crank-angle sensors, without which, the computer doesn’t know where the individual pistons are in each cylinder and, therefore, can’t inject fuel or create spark at the precise time it needs to.

You’d be surprised at how much load an air-conditioner places on an engine, especially when it’s idling and not making much power or torque. It can certainly be enough to make the engine labour and drop revs, forcing it down to a speed where it can no longer idle smoothly; almost as if it’s trying to stall.

Carmakers get around this by programming an idle-up function into the car’s computer. This detects that the air-con has been switched on and will then tell the engine to idle a little faster to keep everything running smoothly. If this idle-up function is not working, you can get the precise symptoms you’ve described. However, if this is the cause then make it GWM’s problem to put right, as it amounts to a fault and should be covered by the new-car warranty.

The first thing to check here would be how well the door and window rubbers are sealing. If they’re not sealing absolutely 100 per cent, a whistling noise at higher speeds is often the result. This technology has come a long way but, ultimately, it all depends on the rubber sealing the glass and the door against the rest of the car. Inferior quality rubber has been noted in some cases, and other times a single bad batch of rubber has been to blame.

But the first thing to do is open each door and make sure there’s not a small twig or piece of tree stuck in the rubber as this can cause the same problem. At least the latter is easy to remedy.