Ask The Guide

The Toyota LandCruiser is one of those vehicles that defies conventional wisdom by being super long-lived. It kind of depends on which model LandCruiser you’re talking about, but if it’s a diesel-engined version, there’s every chance that it still has lots of life left in it at 320,000km.

That presumes, of course, that it has been serviced correctly and has not been used to drag an excavator on a trailer at 110km/h every day of its life. Any vehicle with this many kilometres needs a very careful pre-purchase inspection but, being a LandCruiser, the cost of this inspection is warranted where it may not be on many other makes and models.

This is another classic example of body-computer-fault behaviour. The body computer on a modern car controls multiple (hundreds, in fact) functions such as the heating and cooling, dashboard, media and entertainments, wipers, lights and, of course, the central locking. If the computer has a glitch, the central locking can develop a mind of its own.

Ultimately, you may need to replace the body computer, but this is potentially a warranty job since your car is a 2019 model and should, therefore, carry seven years of factory cover. Take it back to the dealership and have the situation assessed.

This could be caused by any number of things, and an electronic scan of the vehicle will surely reveal some of its secrets and may point you towards the fix. It almost sounds as though the car is going into limp-home mode when you first start driving it, but then reverts to proper operation once the engine has warmed up a little. But this could also suggest a turbo-boost leak somewhere in the system that is closing up and disappearing once there’s some heat built up.

If there’s oil around the intercooler hose, you may have oil in the intercooler itself. This can cause all sorts of problems and is often caused by a worn turbocharger. I’d definitely be having a close look at the turbo unit, checking for wear and damage as this could be the root cause.

The sluggish performance and the erratic tachometer needle may not be related at all. That said, they could very well both be symptoms of the same problem. A lot of mechanics, when shown an erratic dashboard gauge, will start by checking for a bad earth point. A poor earth can lead to all sorts of problems, as a healthy flow of electricity is vital to the basic functions of any modern car.

But before you rush out to find an auto electrician, bear in mind that this sounds very much like a problem that would be covered by Mazda’s factory warranty. Provided you have had the car serviced correctly and it hasn’t been submerged in a flood or something equally drastic, the first step is to take it back to Mazda and allow the dealer to tackle the problem.

The Mitsubishi 4N15 engine in your Pajero Sport has a timing chain rather than a toothed rubber belt. As such, the chain should be good for the life of the vehicle rather than requiring periodic replacement as a timing belt does. However, this does not make the valve-train maintenance-free, as this engine requires valve clearance adjustments every 60,000km.

Any vehicle of this age can start to experience wear in the turbocharger. These units live a very hard life, spinning around at something like 250,000pm and operating in a very hot environment. Cracks can occur in the housings, the bearings can wear and even the blades of the turbocharger itself can break or become bent. All of these things will affect performance. And, unfortunately, it sometimes doesn’t matter how well the vehicle has been maintained. Turbos have a finite lifespan and that’s all there is to it.

But don’t simply assume that a lack of performance is due to turbocharger failure or wear. Sometimes on this model, the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve, which is designed to re-burn some of the engine’s exhaust to reduce tailpipe emissions, can become stuck open, reducing boost pressure and, therefore, performance.

Many workshops specialise in turbo-diesels these days, and should be able to help with a diagnosis.

It’s likely that there’s a fuse that will control this circuit, but there’s also a chance that the same fuse might also disable other functions on the vehicle. The problem is probably being caused by the micro-switch in the door jamb that senses when the door is open and sounds that alarm you keep randomly hearing. The attempted break-in has probably either damaged or misaligned that micro-switch, which is the root problem here.

A better approach would be to fix, replace or realign the switch or the part of the door that contacts it. That will actually fix the fault, rather than put a band-aid on it.

Assuming the vehicle is starting and stopping correctly via the start button, you could be looking at anything from a faulty component in the switch’s lighting circuit, to a bigger problem with the car’s body computer. An auto electrician should be your first stop to get it sorted.

But until you can book in to an auto sparkie, try this trick at home. Disconnect the battery and leave it disconnected for an hour or so. Then reconnect it and see if the problem has gone away. Sometimes, a body computer needs a reset, and disconnecting the battery is the equivalent of Alt-Ctrl-Delete, or turning a computer off at the wall and switching it back on.

This fuse on the battery is there to protect the entire electrical system (and indeed, the car itself) from damage due to a short-circuit. It’s a good idea, particularly in a four-wheel-drive where you might be running a lot of electrical gear such as extra lighting and a fridge.

The problem with this system, though, is that because it protects the whole car, just about any electrical system on the car can cause the fuse to blow.

If the starter motor is the most recent change to the car’s electrical system, then that’s where to start looking for a short-circuit. However, the problem may not have anything to do with the starter motor. An auto electrician should be able to pin-point the problem and fix it without resorting to simply replacing components one at a time.

It definitely could be the transmission’s main pump. Without this pump working properly, it can’t create the pressure necessary to select gears via the valve-body or indeed, produce enough drive force to actually get the car to move.

But, you could also be looking at a broken valve body, faulty selector cable from the cabin to the transmission, a broken torque converter or a complete, catastrophic internal failure of the gearbox. Instead of guessing, take it to a transmission specialist who is very likely to have seen this very problem many times before.