Ask The Guide

Water damage to a car will only be considered a warranty job if it entered the car through a dud rubber seal or other defect in the car’s body. If the water got in through the car being partly submerged in floodwaters or a window left open in a torrential downpour, then that would be classed as accidental damage and not a warranty issue.

So, job one is to work out how the water entered the car. Don’t forget that the Laramie is converted to right-hand-drive in Australia (and the cabin basically rebuilt from scratch in the process) so make sure that nothing was left out or overlooked in that process.

The problem in many new cars is that the computer controlling a lot of the car’s functions often sits on the floor (under the passenger’s seat) where even a small amount of water ingress can cause lots of electrical problems to the ECU, wiring and harness connectors. It’s for this reason that once a car has been water damaged, many insurance companies will write the vehicle off, knowing that it will be a problem child down the track if they don’t.

There are a lot of variables here. One person’s idea of fully restored can vary enormously from somebody else’s. Is the car in mint, factory condition, or in good driving condition? Is it modified in any way? Is it a weird or undesirable colour? Does it have competition history? These are all things that will make a huge difference to the asking price.

Classic cars will make better money if they’re in standard form and with all the desirable options fitted, including a manual (versus automatic) transmission. But even then, the post-Covid market for such things is pretty volatile and even something like another Trump tariff announcement (affecting superannuation values) could send prices tumbling.

However, as a (very) ball-park figure, a good condition, unmolested Capri V6 GT from 1972 should start the bidding around $50,000 or $60,000.

Your budget puts you into some good EVs with decent range including the BYD Seal, Cupra Born, Hyundai Ioniq 5, Polestar 2 (just outside your budget), Tesla Model 3 and others.

Resale value is the big unknown at the moment with many used-car buyers wary of the potential costs of replacing the EV battery sometime in the future.

The future-proofing thing is debatable, too, and experts reckon EV technology is still in its infancy and has a long way to go. If that’s the case, then today’s EVs might seem like Model T Fords in the near future. It all remains to be seen and rests partly on the willingness of the Australian government to get serious about the EV infrastructure necessary for the tech to become viable for more people.

The short answer is very good. It never fails to amaze first-timers just how capable modern 4X4s really are. With decent tyres, and a transfer-case with low-ratio gears, the GWM ute is likely to have more off-road capability than most owners will have brave pills.

Of course there are limitations, but for the average weekend away camping in the bush, the GWM will absolutely make it there and back. The good news is that you don’t even have to modify a vehicle like the GWM to be capable off road. Even in its stock standard form, it will amaze you where it will go. That said, throw some proper tyres on it, and it’ll be even more capable.

Of course, the counter-point here is that even the best off-road vehicle will run into trouble if it’s being driven by somebody who has no idea what they’re doing. So an off-roading course is a good idea, as is joining a club that takes newbies out to teach them the ropes in the field.

The news here isn’t great, and this model Laser had just a single airbag (for the driver) in any of the forms sold in Australia at the time. So, even though the Laser represented a fairly dependable package and is now a very cheap second-hand car to buy, it can’t really be recommended for younger drivers on the basis of that limited safety package.

Even anti-lock brakes didn’t become an option for the Laser until the April 2001 facelift, at which point a passenger’s front airbag became optional in the entry-level LXi and standard on other variants. So the later version is a much safer car all round provided the original owner ticked the boxes for ABS and the second airbag.

This is a typical car company response to the problem of pedal error which has raised its head many times since about the 1980s when car maker started getting sued by drivers who had pressed the wrong pedal, but claimed the car had accelerated of its own accord.

The solution was to make sure that if the driver accidentally pressed the throttle, if they also pressed the brake in panic, the car would stop accelerating. By pressing the brake and throttle together in your car, you’re reproducing that exact situation. So, really, there’s nothing wrong with your car, and it’s only doing what it’s programmed to do.

A lot of drivers don’t like this feature, however, as it means the slightest hint that both the brake and throttle are applied at once is enough for the car to cut its power and not move, as you’ve discovered. Many have found that when trying to enter fast moving traffic or make a quick lane change, and operating both brake and throttle at the same time for a quick getaway, this function is actually dangerous.

Unfortunately, there’s not a lot you can do about it other than learn to not even brush the brake pedal when you want to make a quick start.

This car was built before LED lighting became popular in new cars, so you should be dealing with a simple, replaceable, conventional globe. Even cars from this era that had LED headlights would also probably have had conventional indicator globes.

The trick is in finding the precise one to replace the blown one. While the rear globes may match the front ones in your Honda, I wouldn’t put money on it. The best advice is to remove the blown globe and take it to a parts store that will be able to match it precisely. Even though the two may look the same, you may find there are detail differences in the way they insert into the holder that locates and powers them. Sometimes the contact points can be different, sometimes the physical size of the globe will be an issue.

Removing the globes should be a simple matter of removing the covers over their mounts (from inside the engine bay and the boot respectively) and giving the globe a gentle push and an anti-clockwise quarter turn to release it. When replacing them, remember not to touch the glass surfaces with your fingers as this can leave a hot spot which could lead the globes’ early failure.

Manual gearboxes generally work better/more smoothly when they have some heat in them and the oil gets a little thinner and better able to lubricate. So you’re right on that account. If the gearbox was crunching on every gearchange, you’d also probably suspect the clutch might be worn, too. But since it’s only the one gearchange that’s making the noise, then your theory that the synchromesh rings are worn holds water.

But before you do anything drastic, make absolutely sure the clutch is disengaging fully and that all the clutch lines and pedal action are spot on. A dodgy clutch can also produce this sort of crunching noise. And, yes, it can be worse when the vehicle is cold.

Meanwhile, for some reason, the synchromesh on second gear is the one most likely to fail on the majority of cars (probably because second gear cops and awful hiding and copes with very high loads). So, in that sense, yours is a copy-book case of worn synchros. (First gear is also highly loaded, but since you only really shift up from first – hardly ever down to first on the move – its synchromesh rings don’t cop such a spanking.)

If the problem gets worse, you’ll probably find the upshift from first to second will also start to graunch. That’s when you’ll know for sure that the synchros need replacing. As you point out, though, to really diagnose this the fault requires an inspection of the parts and that means the gearbox out and pulled apart. While you’re in there, change the other synchromesh rings and the transmission’s bearings. And don’t put it back together without a new clutch.

In the meantime, however, if you’re prepared to shift very slowly and carefully while the vehicle is cold, you can actually drive around this problem. Many car owners have done so for years without further problems. Not best engineering practice, perhaps, but it’s a money saver.

Many workshops would start with a simple tune-up and service to tackle this problem. Cars lose performance over the years and it’s often as simple as a good tune-up including a change of spark plugs, filters (air and fuel), spark plug leads and a check of the ignition coils (in petrol models).

If you have the diesel-engined version of the X-Trail, it would also be worth checking to see if the intake manifold has become partially blocked with black gunk that is a by-product of the car’s emissions-control system.

A good service and tune might bring performance back to how you remember it, but don’t ignore the simply things like a faulty accelerator pedal calibration, or slack transmission that is making the car feel lazy. Even low tyre pressures can make a car feel lethargic in terms of both steering and how it accelerates.

The answer to this will depend on exactly which model Barina you have. In some models (typically earlier ones) the code is simply a servicing reminder to make sure the owner knows maintenance is due.

But in some versions of the Barina of this era, fault code 89 usually relates to a problem with the car’s thermostat. So don’t drive it any farther as the faulty thermostat could cause the engine to overheat with catastrophic results. Have a mechanic check things out and see if the thermostat is indeed faulty. If it is, it’s a relatively cheap fix, certainly compared with the cost of a new engine.

Sometimes the code relates to a switch in the thermostat that is responsible for switching on the car’s electric fans, but either way, it could lead to overheating. Don’t ignore it in any case.