Ask The Guide

If the third brake light is working, then the problem is not with the brake-pedal switch (or the third light would not work either). That the two lower brake lights stopped working together is also a clue that it's not the bulbs that are at fault.

I'd be looking at the fusebox to see if the fuse that controls the lower brake-light circuit has failed. There should be a map of the fusebox inside the plastic cover, and from that, you can identify which fuse protects that circuit, and go from there. If there's no blown fuse at fault, you need to start checking earth connections as these can also cause all sorts of electrical mayhem. An auto electrician could probably sort this quite quickly without changing any more working parts.

You've certainly gone to some extremes to check this out, but your investigations should give you a good clue that the problem is with front axle. So, it could either be the differential that is clattering and making the car judder or, perhaps more likely, the front CV joints which allow the car to drive its front axle while also steering the vehicle. Once you take the load off the front driveshafts (by disconnecting them) the noise stops because the worn CV joints aren't taking the strain of trying to move the car, so they don't make the horrible noise.

In some cases, you can simply replace the worn out CV joints, but there's also the option of complete driveshafts (with new CV joints already fitted) that are a simpler fix if a bit more costly. You can also buy driveshafts new or reconditioned. Its sounds like you're more than skilled enough to tackle this at home.

It's quite probable that the check-engine light was triggered by the worn out condition of the battery you replaced, not the brand new one being fitted. Such cars hate low voltages, and that's precisely what a worn battery produces. That said, changing the battery can sometimes cause a modern, computerised car to throw a fault code, and when that happens, the check-engine light will illuminate.

You can try to re-set the vehicle's computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour. Then reconnect the battery and see if the light has disappeared. If it hasn't, it may be that the computer simply needs to relearn a few parameters after having been disconnected from the power when the original battery change was made. A decent drive might return things to normal.

But don't forget the basics: Check the condition and cleanliness of the battery leads, terminals and make sure that all the connections are tight. If there's still no joy, have the vehicle electronically scanned and let the computer tell you precisely what's wrong.

If you're looking for a dual-cab ute with an emphasis on comfort and performance, then a Holden Crewman suddenly comes into sharp focus. These are around for the money you're talking about and even though some of them are getting close to your age cut-off, they provide ride quality and dynamics that even modern dual-cab utes struggle to reproduce.

The Holden in question is not an off-roader by any means, but it can do all the sorts of things that ute owners love them for. By going down this route, you also side-step the potentially troublesome common-rail diesel problems that can include blocked DPFs and internal clogging from soot and oil. If you can find one, there was even a V8 version of the Crewman which, if you find a good example, will provide lots of reliability and even more performance.

This crops us frequently as a dispute between car owners and dealerships and it's all because of one thing: Extended warranties are generally not worth the paper they're printed on. They're designed to relieve car buyers of more money, thinking they'll be covered if the worst happens. Usually, the warranty is carefully written to avoid paying out on the things most likely to go wrong. Never has 'read the fine print' been so important.

Consider that the warranty your purchased only covers the first $3500 of an engine replacement. Where on earth can an engine be replaced for that sort of money? It's a clear case of the fine print giving the warranty provider a convenient escape clause. Don't forget, this extended warranty is not a Ford factory warranty, it's a third party deal that car-dealers love because they get a kick-back from the warranty company every time a car buyer signs on that dotted line. Dealers also love these warranties because it forces owners into over-servicing their cars. Does it not seem strange that the car designed and engineered by Ford to have a 12-monthly service interval suddenly needs a six-monthly service as part of the warranty conditions?

As far as the replacement engine goes, be very careful about what you're being offered. If the engine is, indeed, a reconditioned engine, it doesn't really matter how many kilometres it has already done because reconditioned means it has been fully rebuilt with new parts. If, however, it's a second-hand engine plucked from a wrecked Kuga, then I would argue that an engine with the same mileage as the one in your car should be fitted. But I'll guarantee you there's some fine print in that warranty that makes me wrong about that, too.

The first thing to do is make sure your battery is earthed properly and all the relevant electrical contacts are tight and clean. Low voltage or a poor connection can easily cause the problems you're seeing, especially if they've all occurred more or less at the same time.

The next thing is to have the vehicle electronically scanned. That will tell you what faults the on-board computer has spotted, and you can then tackle them logically instead of replacing parts that don't fix the actual problem. The rough running could be anything from a dud oxygen sensor to a fuel-injection problem and lots in between.

I would suspect the heating and air-conditioning problems are separate to the engine's poor running, but anything's possible when a car's electronics start playing up.

Many automatic vehicles have their transmission cooled as part of the car's engine cooling system. The transmission fluid passes through plumbing that takes it through (usually) the bottom tank of the car's radiator where it's cooled, keeping the entire transmission at the correct operating temperature.

So, if there was a problem with any of this cooling network or the radiator itself, it's entirely possible that the transmission could start to overheat. When that happens, all sorts of problems arise, including a loss of drive or slipping as it's also referred to.

The other major cause of transmission slip is a low transmission fluid level. Because the transmission in most cases is a sealed system which doesn't require fluid top-ups, many owners simply forget about it altogether. In a lot of modern cars, manufacturers don't even provide a dipstick with which to check the fluid level. But if there's a leak – even a small one – anywhere in the system, the fluid inside the transmission can fall too low and slippage can be the result.

That model Ranger does, indeed, have what’s called a variable-voltage or `smart’ alternator. The idea is that when the car’s main battery is fully charged, the alternator reduces its workload to save fuel. But the reality is that the system doesn’t always recognise that accessories (like a second battery) have been fitted to the car. If that happens, the alternator doesn’t always make enough power to keep accessories like that second battery system fully charged. Which means that suddenly, your car-fridge won’t run overnight.

The good news is that this smart function is purely electronically controlled, and a Ford dealer can disable it for you, returning the alternator to conventional operation.

Yes, there are plenty of companies selling replacement keys for this car. The cost will depend on whether it’s a conventional key or an electronically coded key with a remote locking function built in to it. Just be careful if ordering online, though, as some replacement keys include only the hardware and not the internal electronics.

In many cases, you need to source the replacement key and then have a locksmith physically cut the key so that it works in your car. In some cases, you may have to prove ownership of the car before the locksmith will do this. Some keys then need to be electronically coded to `talk’ to the vehicle.

If you want a no hassle experience, there are even locksmiths who will come to you and cut the key on site, but you’ll pay a call-out fee as well as the cost of the key itself.

Both are regarded as great choices as a used car, so it will really come down to whether you need the extra interior space of the Camry over the practicality of the Corolla’s hatchback layout.

With your budget, you might be able to get into a Camry Hybrid which will reduce running costs around town (which suits your suggested usage pattern) although these early Camry Hybrids can be more than a decade old now, so a close check of the condition of the batteries would be a mandatory pre-purchase requirement.

The Corolla, meanwhile, was first seen here in hybrid form in 2016, and those cars are still closer to mid-$20,000, so possibly out of your range. The exception is a grey (private) import Corolla Hybrid, but these can be a bit more of a lottery than a locally delivered Toyota.