Ask The Guide

It sounds like you have a very odd vehicle, Ian. All the information I've ever seen tells me that the BA Falcon range was released on September 30 2002 (not October as many believe) and that the Boss 260-powered XR8 didn't hit showrooms until early (January) 2003. Which makes your BA XR8 with a 2001 build-date a real anomaly.

Possibilities include your car being a very early prototype that escaped the crusher (which was the fate of most prototypes) and is possibly an AU Falcon bodyshell that has been converted to BA Falcon panels. The two models shared a lot more metal than they appear to, which was the clever part of Ford's update of the AU to BA.

But here's another clue: From memory, the AU Falcon used a conventional compliance plate rivetted to the car's underbonnet. But the BA was (I think) the first to use a sticker rather than a stamped plate. If your car has a stamped plate rather than a sticker, that suggests it has AU Falcon origins.

The ULEASHED decal on the bonnet is another mystery and is unlikely to have been a Ford Australia addition. Which makes me wonder if perhaps the car wasn't an early BA Falcon XR8 mock-up that was used for promotional purposes, say, for a race-team.

You used to be able to contact Ford Australia and quote the car's VIN which would enable the car's origins to be traced, but I believe that service has been discontinued. There are also online VIN decoders that might give an answer, but since it appears this car is a one-off, maybe it won't recognise the VIN. It all sounds intriguing, so please keep us in the loop.

This model Challenger did have a history of engine overheating, largely due to poor surface preparation between the cylinder head and crankcase, allowing coolant to be consumed by the engine. Mitsubishi made production changes that resulted in a smoother head-gasket mating surface, but that's no help to owners of the earlier version.

In any case, that probably shouldn't affect the transmission and if it's dropping into neutral of its own accord then something – possibly electronic – is going wrong., It's unlikely to be a limp-home response as being in neutral doesn't allow you to limp anywhere, let alone home. But it could be a legitimate response to a transmission heat situation. Have you checked the level of transmission fluid?

A scan of the vehicle might throw up a clue, but it could also easily be something as simple as a transmission selector that is poorly adjusted and allowing the gearbox to select neutral on rough on uneven ground. Another possibility is that the transmission is, indeed, getting hot as a result of the engine temperature creeping up. The transmission cooler is part of the engine's cooling system, so the two are definitely linked.

These older Ford pick-ups are actually quite collectible now with a big following that is prepared to pay big money for the right example. The main factor in value these days is the overall condition of the F100. Specifically the body and whether it's rusty or not. Rust was the big killer of these vehicles which were originally designed and built for the throw-away North American domestic market. Throw in the fact that they were first sold as workhorses and you can understand why the ones that have survived are worth money.

The chassis must also be sound if the vehicle is to have a future and the driveline will determine value, too; the bigger the V8 engine, the more collectible the vehicle is.

With all that in mind, you might pay a few hundred dollars for a very rusty, incomplete box of bits, all the way to $60,000 or even more for a restored example in really nice condition. Values in the collector car market are continuing to fall post-Covid, but the arrival of the all-new Ford F-150 won't hurt the values of these old girls one bit.

Here's a pointed question: Does your vehicle have an aftermarket trailer-brake system fitted? If it does, it's quite likely that the wiring passes through the cabin somewhere near where your leak is located. Unless this access hole is correctly sealed with the proper grommet, there's every chance water is getting in at this point.

Other likely suspects for this include roof mounted aerial holes, roof rack attachment points and even worn or damaged window and door rubbers.

I've heard of these vehicles racking up huge mileages, but even so, 450,000 is a lot of kilometres and the thing could be a breakdown just waiting to happen. If it's been meticulously maintained, you might get a few more years out of it, but there's every chance it could be ready to go bang in some way. Certainly, the asking price should reflect this.

This model Vito was beset by a huge raft or recalls for all sorts of things, so make sure those have been attended to., Mechanically, the most common big-ticket item was a timing chain that could wear out (often long before 450,000km had passed under its wheels). Because the timing chain in the turbo-diesel engine is at the back of the engine (the transmission side) access is fiddly and the job to replace the chain, guides and tensioners is a relatively expensive one.

The first thing to determine is whether the engine is actually getting hot. You need to find a mechanic who can tell the difference between a genuinely hot engine and one that is crying wolf. Most times, this will involve letting the engine idle until the warning light comes on and then checking the actual temperature of the coolant. This is usually done via a trusted thermometer (infra-red thermometers are great for this) checking the temperature of the coolant in the radiator's top tank.

If the engine really is hot, then you're looking for a mechanical problem. But if the temperature is within a normal range, then you need to start looking for a dud temperature sensor, faulty gauge/light or a problem with the car's wiring. This can be a lot harder to find than you might think, but driving around with a temperature warning flashing is no good either.

This shouldn't be too difficult, as the 2003 Astra was only available with a petrol engine. If your car was a diesel-powered car (available in the next generation of Astra) the situation could be much more complicated. As it is, however, you should really only need to add fresh fuel to the tank, switch on the ignition for a few seconds to allow the fuel pump to prime the engine and then hit the starter. Don't crank the engine for long periods if it's a bit slow to start a this will drain the battery and potentially overheat the starter motor. Instead, try starting the engine in bursts of a few seconds at a time with a little time between to let things cool down.

Sometimes, however, the fuel pump won't appreciate being allowed to run dry and this can cause internal damage to the pump sufficient for it to need replacement. Generally, though, if you can hear the pump buzzing with the ignition on, the pump is working. In some extreme cases, the pump may not be able to prime the engine and the solution then is to spray a little starter fluid down the intake system to start the engine and hopefully allow the pump to catch up. But be warned, this is a dangerous process and should only be tried by somebody who knows what they're doing. It also involves undoing some of the trunking or piping to gain access to the engine's intake.

The other potential hazard with running a car dry of fuel is that you'll drag all the silt, rust and dirt that once sat harmlessly in the bottom of the tank through the engine and into the fuel system. So you would be well advised to change the fuel filters and check that no rubbish has entered the system.

There are probably hundreds of reasons for this to occur, starting with the fuel system and including (but not ending with) something to do with the electronics that control modern turbo-diesel engines. Other causes can be clogged EGR valves or faulty injectors. You need to have the vehicle scanned to see if the on-board computer has detected the fault and logged it. But don't rule out something simpler like a fault with the DPF or even a dirty air filter. Either way, black smoke suggests either a problem with the air-fuel mixture or the way it's being burned.

But don't ignore the problem as black smoke from a diesel engine can also mean it's running hot and that can lead to all sorts of problems including internal engine damage. Unlike a petrol engine which will tend to run cooler on a too-rich mixture (too much fuel, not enough air) a diesel running rich can easily run too hot.

By connecting the Ranger to a diagnostic computer, you should be able to work out what's constricting the engine power. Modern engines constantly monitor everything from boost pressure to fuel pressure, and transmission temperature to alternator output. Somewhere in those hundreds of parameters will be the problem and it should be fairly obvious to somebody who knows how to interpret the codes the car's computer will spit out.

Meantime, it could be that the engine's installation skipped hooking up a sensor or piece of wiring and that has caused the engine to go into limp-home mode which limits the power the car will produce in the interests of self preservation. On a really simple level, have you checked that all the turbocharger's plumbing is intact and the joints are tight post engine installation? Loose plumbing joints and cracked or split plastic tubing are a common way to lose turbo-boost pressure.

You haven't given me much to go on with here, Noel. Without the year and specification of your Navara, I can't even guess if it was fitted with a DPF or not. That's because Nissan has had a bit of an on-again-off-again relationship with DPF technology. To the extent that in some versions of the Navara, the automatic variant had a DPF and the manual did not.

But you can check for yourself by taking a look under the car. A DPF looks a bit like a muffler, but with a couple of metal pipes coming out of it and usually an electrical connection or two. Some of this stuff may be hidden behind heat shields, however. In most cases the Navara's DPF will be located in the middle section of the exhaust system, roughly beneath the front passenger's seat.